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| Classic Saab 900 Workshop Classic Saab 900 (1979-1994) Technical Forum. |
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#1
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Well, I suspect that the release bearing is out as the typical noise starts up when the clutch is depressed and ceases when the clutch is released. I have done the search and I gather that the job is a little easier than it looks like and reads in the manual.
btw, 87 turbo convertable 16v I cannot afford to pay the 6 bills here in Denver CO so I must do it myself. My plan is to just replace the bearing and whatever seals are necessary. The clutch does not slip. While I have good shade-tree mechanic chops, I cannot really lift and wrench too much until I finish up the physical therapy for a disk issue! (in my neck... different disks...) Am I crazy to not just replace the disk and plate at the same time? It *looks* to me that after the clutch assembly is opened up, the disk and plate are bolt on/off. IS that true? thanks in advance. E Last edited by ernzo2; 15-08-05 at 06:50 PM. Reason: additional details |
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#2
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Quote:
How old is the current clutch? Do you do mostly motorway or urban driving? There are instructions in the Bentley for checking the clutch wear (I can't remember what they are). I would say that if the slave cylinder looks rusty and corroded, and it's old then replace that. If the clutch is more than half worn then replace that too. Also inspect the section of flexible hose on the slave cylinder's hydraulic circuit. Replacing the clutch can be tough on the back. Removing the bonnet will help you greatly, as you won't then have to lean over the engine bay at an awkward angle. http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=35662
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The path of my life is strewn with cowpats from the devil's own satanic herd |
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#3
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I am in the same situation, i have not change my clutch realise bearing and slave because i dont have a clutch kit yet.
I too though it best to replace it all, as your in there and its right infront of you what better chance will you have 2 birds with one stone. Matthew has posted a great thread on this topic that i have printed out and will use a manuel, i suggest you read it all and you wont go wrong. Good luck |
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#4
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#5
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My release bearing went, actually it seized. Made a weird whine in 1st and 2nd. My mechanic replaced the disc/plate at the same time. The seal in back of the release bearing (name?) was also replaced. I also had my front engine mount replaced at the same time.
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#6
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Thanks all. Hmmmm, I have the bently and I have read all I can here but I still cannot get my arms around how the darn thing works! In my experience, some things just take a 'lookin at before it all comes clear. When I replaced the t-case on my jeep, NOTHING could have prepared me for that!! But if I had to do it again? Must easier I suspect!
Anyway, my plan is to get the bearing and some molly and *I think* one seal (?) and start with taking the bonnet off. After I look at it, and determine the wear (thanks mathew) maybe I will dive in with both feet! From posts I have determined that I ought to be able to access and replace the bearing in about 3 hours. I know it can be done faster, but..... cheers!
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Ernzo
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#7
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Hi,
OK, I have parts and a question: (Thanks Mathew for the detailed-with pix- clutch link above!!) After I remove the plastic cover, depress clutch pedal and insert spark wires to hold the pressure plate springs (which is what I hope to use) and pull the input shaft partway out, I am thinking that I have exposed the bearing, correct? Is it possible to simply replace the darn thing at this point, or do I have to pull the slave off? I guess what I am asking is how is the release bearing attached or held to the bellows/slave? I realize that this may sound like a *1/2 az * way of doing it but I am told that the car had a clutch in the last 30m miles. Obviously, unless someone (not me!) was riding the pedal, something must be amiss as the bearing ought to last longer. Again, any help is appreciated. I cannot go the 6 bills or so for the shop and I am hoping to make this a 1-2 banana job, not a 5! Ernie
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Ernzo
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#8
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Hi!! (happier than I rally am...)
I am in the middle of the clutch. Cover off, slave exposed. I am off to get the special tool to hold the plate springs. After that I will pull the shaft using an 8m bolt. So far so good? After that I am going to try to lift out the slave. Will it come out without removing the plate/disk? While the slave is grease, I see no leaks. I am going to clean her up. What I am trying to do now is replace the release bearing, pressure plate and disk and the shaft seal. with the pedal NOT pushed in, the bearing seems to spin freely, but I can hear that it is shot. Suggestions? Sound like a plan? Will the slave come out without removing the plate at the same time? Thanks a million, hopefully I can add something to this forum as I get to know my Saab a little better! Ernie
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Ernzo
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#9
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Once you inserted the special clutch tool, pulled the shaft, it is possible to remove the slave cylinder without pulling the plate and clutch. In fact it is possible to change out the transmission without pulling the plate and clutch
You will need a power bleeder or mini-vac to restore the clutch pressure. As it turned out, I had a bad brake master cylinder, which didn't help things. I also recommend the Bentley and/or the Haynes manuals for addtional info. --oliversexpedition |
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#10
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If you have problems removing the slave, you can cut the fingers on the old pressure plate with a dremel. That will give you a lot of room to get everything out.
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#11
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The release bearing sits on part of the slave cylinder's piston. You have to remove the slave to get the release bearing off. To remove the slave you have to take out the clutch. To take out the clutch you have to take out the slave.
The solution is to remove everything, simultaneously. It won't take you long to unbolt the clutch pressure plate. On reassembly, some long cable ties come in useful for holding parts together while you lower them into place. Unless you have five arms
__________________
The path of my life is strewn with cowpats from the devil's own satanic herd |
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