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How To Replace 93 2.8 V6 Coils

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24K views 27 replies 14 participants last post by  Pugheaven  
Z
#1 ·
Couldn't find a write up on this, figured id snap some photos. Im not a mechanic so let me know if I did anything wrong.

Can only attach 5photos per post so...:

1. The tools i used, think i got them all on
2. Unplug negative battery
3. Remove engine cover (need to remove yellow oil plug first)
4. Disconnect connectors to coil, puch pins left and then pull out.
5. Middle one (#4) is easier to get out if you loosen coil first.

After removing the connector and 10mm bolt, pull the coil out.
 

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Z
#2 ·
6. Remove this connector, pull the metal lever and it comes out.
7. Remove the cable holder
8. Remove cable to this MAP sensor
9. Remove the plate
10. Remove brake booster tube, notice I've already replaced this once with new silicone, yours should be black and super brittle so be careful. If you get it out in one piece i would recommend replacing it with silicone anyway.
 

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Z
#3 · (Edited)
11. Remove the ground wire here with 7mm. This cable is extremely IMPORTANT!!! make sure to connect well when putting it back.
12. Remove the black steel plate. Its attached with 2x 10mm at top and then theres a tricky one in bottom. This one i only loosened and kept in, when putting back i didn't tighten either, sufficient as a guide for the plate.
13. Now you can move the plate to the left and the other connectors to the right and were getting close to the prize!
14. Remove another 10mm bolt to this plate and pull it out.
15. Use both hands and be careful, brittle tubes! Don't waste one hand holding a camera while doing this, it will snap...!
15.5. After this i removed (and replaced) the purge valve (forgot photo). Its a black little plastic valve attached to the metal plate in step #14. It has 3connectors, 2 hoses and 1 wired. You can see one of the connectors easily in all other photos (the one with a blue button you press in to release). You can leave this one in or remove for easier access. If removing why not replace? 17$ on amazon, search for 12611801. In car i had 12593761.


 

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Z
#4 ·
16. Now the back coils (#1 #3 #5) are visible and you can remove them.
17. I also did the spark plugs using LFR-7AIX and 0.029"
18. Tighten with torque wrench at 20lb/inch. On my model think settings was 240/0.
19. Bonus! Fix broken tubes, use sharp knife and cut along connector. Put new silicone on it and secure them with some strap.
20. This is how the brake booster looks, by now I've done most of the wires back there.


Hope it helps!
 

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Z
#8 · (Edited)
hose to the purge valve snapped. Used 8mm to replace this one (and a few others)

4mm is to small, 6-8 fits tight. I used up all 6mm last time for brake booster hose, 8mm worked just fine.

Been using these silicone hoses:




For the valve on brake-booster (the one everyone brakes sooner or later) I'm using this $8 check valve, ACDelco 14047619:


 
#11 · (Edited)
For anyone changing the purge valve at the same time your are back there (highly recommended) I can confirm that the following part works and is same as OEM

ACDelco 214-1685 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister Purge Valve with Bracket

You use your old bracket.

About half the price than the same part from Saab on Amazon and is Bosch and marked as such on part despite coming in an AC Delco box.

For anyone who does not know, the purge valve fails and throws a check engine light and causes hard starting after filling up gas tank.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Something else I did that may help prevent melting wires/wire loom protector for the harness that runs right next to the heat shield is a slight re-route of that harness. Yours will most likely be badly melted as it is super close to the heat shield.

Instead of routing it to the outside of the "cable bracket" where it is usually held on by a zip tie, I routed it between one of the vacuum lines which allows it to sit on the inside (under) the "cable bracket" and keeps it far away from the heat shield.

I carefully peeled away all the melted wire loom protector and replaced a large section of it with some high temp stuff from Home Depot. I've included a pic of how I routed the harness in between two vacuum lines (no pressure on vacuum lines). That maroon plug is a simple pull-out tab type. The maroon part slides to the right and it ejects the plug at the same time. The second photo shows how that harness now runs under the bracket as opposed to the side next to the heat shield.
 

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F
#19 ·
Just an update. The 8mm ID hoses are definitely too big and zip tying or using hose clamps maintained a slight leak at the nipples.

I then bought 6mm or 1/4" ID fuel hoses locally which are branded "Armor Guard" they're rubber and seriously reinforced. I used those to go over the outlet/inlet nipples then forced the 8mm hoses over them. Now it's very secure.

I had to take everything off several times because I kept finding new leaks. I have a OEM replacement set on the way already but might just keep it around for a while until I have to do coils/plugs and replace everything again.

Most of the cracks in the vacuum lines seem to happen at the nipples themselves and edges. I wonder if it's a good idea to wrap them in heat reflective foil or something insulating.
 
M
#20 ·
Thank you so much for your write up. Just picked up a 2007 9-3 2.8 last week and needed to replace all coils and spark plugs. All the youtube vids I found weren't super clear like your instructions.

I'm just super thankful the images haven't expired and I can actually see them!!

Thanks again, lifesaver!!
 
G
#22 ·
Just did this job yesterday on my 2007 Aero. It was easier than I expected, and I had read over the procedure here and in WIS so many times before that I only needed to refer back to this thread once after I got started.

I was pretty lucky in that my bottom ECU plate bolt was already only finger tight, and my brake vacuum hoses were in good shape and somewhat flexible. I was able to maneuver the whole mess out of the way and then back into place without disconnecting any hoses. the only part that I needed to fully remove was the ECU.

The coils that came with the car were a random grab-bag of bosch and delphi. Replaced them with the 4112 bosch coils from Rockauto. after replacing plugs and coils I'm no longer able to reproduce a misfire during 4th gear pulls @ 70mph. Thanks for the excellent guide!
 

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#23 ·
Great thread as I was thinking of undertaking this job myself, but worried about something breaking... however will read and print everything out and read 10 times and might give it a go as going Stage 1 3rd August and my Aero 2.8 is on 62k miles and reckon all original plugs and coils. Already got the bits to do it...
 
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#28 ·
Well, coils and plugs now replaced with 0.8mm NGK's. Nothing was nasty on the back 3 plugs incredibly, nothing broke off or is brittle incredibly... maybe it's because the car is only on 65K right now, but everything remained supple etc. However, wow, even though there was nothing wrong with my current setip, it runs SOOOOOoooo much smoother now, not sure what or how, but it does and I didn't have a problem beforehand either. Maybe it's a placibo effect but tbh I didn't expect any different but you can feel it.


I didn't measure the gap on the sparks I threw away but even by looking at them it was more than 1mm, so, they wouldn't have lasted 2 minutes with a remap!


Anyhow, Friday is remap day, so, engine is now ready to kick ***
 
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