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| Classic Saab 900 Workshop Classic Saab 900 (1979-1994) Technical Forum. |
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#4501
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#4502
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Unless my memory is playing tricks on me (don't answer that) the wiring aperture bush is still in the same place on the 8v.
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#4503
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I wasn't thinking ED ..as you say looking to route your T5 harness ..
If you look directly under the master cylinder , on the firewall , there is blanking plate for the Steering column ( to accommodate LHD cars ) Knock this out ( it is a tin plate located within a Grommet ( not disimilar to the fuel pump cover ) Drill your hole and fit your protective grommet on the bench and refit the plate . Your firewall remains un butchered if ever you choose to reverse what you are doing . It also a very direct route to crank sensor ... |
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#4504
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Peva your memory serves you well!
I can't believe I didn't see this haha so dumb! PS Aussie I noticed that, a good option and I was strongly considering it, but now that I've seen this I think this is perfect! ![]() Does that black box look stock to anyone? It's covering an opening in the metalwork to allow communication between the wheelwell and engine bay ![]() With the loom extended (I have about an extra 80cm to bring the useable loom lenght up to 1.6m) this will easily work. The ECU will go in the right footwell like it would on a 16v c900. One more problem knocked out of the way! Things left to do - make fuel lines - make fuel rail - make cps bracket - check that my trigger wheel mount to the harmonic balancer has no runout (will have to test on one of your engine sitting on the floor maybe Aussie? - extend loom to work - insulate loom - fabricate spark plug wires into DI cassette based on instructions by guy on saablink who did it with his truck - fabricate DI cassette mounts I have all the parts, my DI cassette is tested and working , I think the ECU I have might be dead, can't get it to connect to t5suite with the combiadapter I bought, |
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#4505
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The black box isn't standard , most likely an alarm module .
Test trigger wheel no drama ... |
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#4506
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Kind of you to say so Ed. It's not exactly obvious, until you know it's there. The black box is definitely not standard.
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#4507
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On closer inspection the black box looks empty, it actually seems to be some kind of reservoir for the battery cable that runs from a distribution block near the starter into the boot where my battery has been relocated to (by the PO) I will open it up and see what's in there, if nothing Ill get rid of it...
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#4508
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Its likely to be a junction box then .. just a form of insulating at a joint .
If it is a joined cable .. Later down the track use it as a*snake* to pull an unjoined length thru , truckloads of very heavy gauge flex are readily available |
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#4509
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Once I get T5 into my c900 hopefully I can convince you to get your aero on the bandwagon, apparently just an unreal difference... I have all the tuning gear so that should head off some of your hesitance regarding out of pocket expenses |
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#4510
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There is a main junction at that point. The short side of the hot leads from the battery went into a distribution block. Among the other items connected (if you were so equipped) are the power leads and fuses for the convertible top. Relocating the battery would possibly have made this redundant.
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It's too late for blind faith and ignorance.... gotta get a bigger hammer. |
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#4511
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Just bought an '83. Manual transmission fluid and coolant are danger zone low.
I'm gonna fill up the coolant with a mix and keep my eye out for leaks. My question is, should I drain the remaining transmission fluid and fill up with new, or just buy a bottle and top it off? |
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#4512
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I reckon drain it and clean the magnetic drain plug but a lot will say just top it off... I'm of the belief that metal floating around is bad most of the time those magnetic plugs are choked with metal by the time someone sees them.
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#4513
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But damn, there seems to be a lot of opinion on whether or not to flush with something, and what to fill it with. I'll be honest, I'm really new to this, and a bit lost. Can I go wrong by filling it with conventional 10w30 like the manual says? I would fill with Mobil 1 or Redline MT-90 but I don't think I can get MT-90 in Fairbanks and it seems some think a synthetic in the gear box is bad news.... Thanks in advance! |
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#4514
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Just drain and fill it, don't worry about anything else (flushing etc) Mobil 1 is excellent choice in terms of shift characteristics etc but any 10w30 will do. No need to spend a fortune I doubt it matters. The transmission wears out more from lack of lube rather than choice.
Don't spend a fortune just incase it fails in a couple of thousand miles due to lack of lubrication prior to your drain and refill... |
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#4515
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#4516
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The guy is new at this stuff, no sense in filling his head full of myths.
There's no reason whatsoever to avoid synthetic oil.
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Corporations are people! If you prick them, do they not bleed? If you tickle them, do they not laugh? If you poison them, do they not die? |
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#4517
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Jim is a great sounding board. The lubrication issue is like asking one of those "them's fighting words...." questions. I am using Redline MTL in my rebuilt, and using 10W-30 regular oil in the transmissions that have evidence of seals leakage.
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It's too late for blind faith and ignorance.... gotta get a bigger hammer. |
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#4518
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I think this is one of those subjects that if you do a search you will find lots of opinions.My car had gear oil in it when I got it.I drained it out and refilled with plain old 10w-30.It shifts very nice,a noticeable difference.I don't believe you would have any problems if you used synthetic oil,and I hear many people use Honda gearbox oil.
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#4519
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1992 Turbo 'vert, 1984 Turbo 3 door |
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#4520
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Without using a lift, is it possible to remove the exhaust from my 91 convertible? The section I'd like to remove is from the catalytic converter back. I think the rear axle might be in the way.
I discovered an exhaust leak from the seam of the muffler. I was hoping to take the the exhaust to a welder to avoid the muffler shop prices. Thanks |
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