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C900 Workshop Classic 900 (1979-1993 & '94 Convertible) Technical Forum.

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  #4501  
Old 17th August 2012
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Originally Posted by S900t8v View Post
anyone got a picture showing clearly where the wiring for the ECU goes through the firewall on a c900
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Originally Posted by S900t8v View Post
I don't have any ECUs, and my PS reservoir is not in the wheelwell, I have an 8v remember
I thought you just said you did. OK, forget the PS res.

Unless my memory is playing tricks on me (don't answer that) the wiring aperture bush is still in the same place on the 8v.
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  #4502  
Old 17th August 2012
AUSSIE900 AUSSIE900 is offline
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I wasn't thinking ED ..as you say looking to route your T5 harness ..

If you look directly under the master cylinder , on the firewall , there is blanking plate for the Steering column ( to accommodate LHD cars ) Knock this out ( it is a tin plate located within a Grommet ( not disimilar to the fuel pump cover )

Drill your hole and fit your protective grommet on the bench and refit the plate .

Your firewall remains un butchered if ever you choose to reverse what you are doing . It also a very direct route to crank sensor ...
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  #4503  
Old 18th August 2012
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Peva your memory serves you well!

I can't believe I didn't see this haha so dumb!

PS Aussie I noticed that, a good option and I was strongly considering it, but now that I've seen this I think this is perfect!



Does that black box look stock to anyone? It's covering an opening in the metalwork to allow communication between the wheelwell and engine bay



With the loom extended (I have about an extra 80cm to bring the useable loom lenght up to 1.6m) this will easily work. The ECU will go in the right footwell like it would on a 16v c900.

One more problem knocked out of the way!

Things left to do
- make fuel lines
- make fuel rail
- make cps bracket - check that my trigger wheel mount to the harmonic balancer has no runout (will have to test on one of your engine sitting on the floor maybe Aussie? )
- extend loom to work - insulate loom
- fabricate spark plug wires into DI cassette based on instructions by guy on saablink who did it with his truck
- fabricate DI cassette mounts

I have all the parts, my DI cassette is tested and working , I think the ECU I have might be dead, can't get it to connect to t5suite with the combiadapter I bought,
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  #4504  
Old 18th August 2012
AUSSIE900 AUSSIE900 is offline
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The black box isn't standard , most likely an alarm module .

Test trigger wheel no drama ...
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  #4505  
Old 18th August 2012
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Peva your memory serves you well!
Kind of you to say so Ed. It's not exactly obvious, until you know it's there. The black box is definitely not standard.
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  #4506  
Old 18th August 2012
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On closer inspection the black box looks empty, it actually seems to be some kind of reservoir for the battery cable that runs from a distribution block near the starter into the boot where my battery has been relocated to (by the PO) I will open it up and see what's in there, if nothing Ill get rid of it...
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  #4507  
Old 18th August 2012
AUSSIE900 AUSSIE900 is offline
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Its likely to be a junction box then .. just a form of insulating at a joint .

If it is a joined cable .. Later down the track use it as a*snake* to pull an unjoined length thru , truckloads of very heavy gauge flex are readily available
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  #4508  
Old 18th August 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUSSIE900 View Post
Its likely to be a junction box then .. just a form of insulating at a joint .

If it is a joined cable .. Later down the track use it as a*snake* to pull an unjoined length thru , truckloads of very heavy gauge flex are readily available
Sounds like you're on the money Aussie! thanks for the heads up and the offer! Always grateful, and thanks for your generosity


Once I get T5 into my c900 hopefully I can convince you to get your aero on the bandwagon, apparently just an unreal difference... I have all the tuning gear so that should head off some of your hesitance regarding out of pocket expenses Fuel economy and driveability if not for pure performance gains!
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  #4509  
Old 19th August 2012
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There is a main junction at that point. The short side of the hot leads from the battery went into a distribution block. Among the other items connected (if you were so equipped) are the power leads and fuses for the convertible top. Relocating the battery would possibly have made this redundant.
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  #4510  
Old 19th August 2012
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Just bought an '83. Manual transmission fluid and coolant are danger zone low.

I'm gonna fill up the coolant with a mix and keep my eye out for leaks. My question is, should I drain the remaining transmission fluid and fill up with new, or just buy a bottle and top it off?
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  #4511  
Old 19th August 2012
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I reckon drain it and clean the magnetic drain plug but a lot will say just top it off... I'm of the belief that metal floating around is bad most of the time those magnetic plugs are choked with metal by the time someone sees them.
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  #4512  
Old 20th August 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S900t8v View Post
I reckon drain it and clean the magnetic drain plug but a lot will say just top it off... I'm of the belief that metal floating around is bad most of the time those magnetic plugs are choked with metal by the time someone sees them.
OK, I shall drain it!

But damn, there seems to be a lot of opinion on whether or not to flush with something, and what to fill it with. I'll be honest, I'm really new to this, and a bit lost.

Can I go wrong by filling it with conventional 10w30 like the manual says? I would fill with Mobil 1 or Redline MT-90 but I don't think I can get MT-90 in Fairbanks and it seems some think a synthetic in the gear box is bad news....

Thanks in advance!
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  #4513  
Old 20th August 2012
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Just drain and fill it, don't worry about anything else (flushing etc) Mobil 1 is excellent choice in terms of shift characteristics etc but any 10w30 will do. No need to spend a fortune I doubt it matters. The transmission wears out more from lack of lube rather than choice.

Don't spend a fortune just incase it fails in a couple of thousand miles due to lack of lubrication prior to your drain and refill...
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  #4514  
Old 20th August 2012
spg1 spg1 is offline
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Originally Posted by Webny View Post
OK, I shall drain it!

But damn, there seems to be a lot of opinion on whether or not to flush with something, and what to fill it with. I'll be honest, I'm really new to this, and a bit lost.

Can I go wrong by filling it with conventional 10w30 like the manual says? I would fill with Mobil 1 or Redline MT-90 but I don't think I can get MT-90 in Fairbanks and it seems some think a synthetic in the gear box is bad news....

Thanks in advance!
10:30 is fine, but don't use synthetic unless it is a synchromesh. I use Amsoil synchromesh and no problems.
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  #4515  
Old 20th August 2012
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Jim Mesthene Jim Mesthene is offline
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10:30 is fine, but don't use synthetic unless it is a synchromesh.
The guy is new at this stuff, no sense in filling his head full of myths.
There's no reason whatsoever to avoid synthetic oil.
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  #4516  
Old 20th August 2012
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The guy is new at this stuff, no sense in filling his head full of myths.
There's no reason whatsoever to avoid synthetic oil.
Jim is a great sounding board. The lubrication issue is like asking one of those "them's fighting words...." questions. I am using Redline MTL in my rebuilt, and using 10W-30 regular oil in the transmissions that have evidence of seals leakage.
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  #4517  
Old 20th August 2012
steves 900 steves 900 is offline
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I think this is one of those subjects that if you do a search you will find lots of opinions.My car had gear oil in it when I got it.I drained it out and refilled with plain old 10w-30.It shifts very nice,a noticeable difference.I don't believe you would have any problems if you used synthetic oil,and I hear many people use Honda gearbox oil.
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  #4518  
Old 20th August 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steves 900 View Post
I think this is one of those subjects that if you do a search you will find lots of opinions.My car had gear oil in it when I got it.I drained it out and refilled with plain old 10w-30.It shifts very nice,a noticeable difference.I don't believe you would have any problems if you used synthetic oil,and I hear many people use Honda gearbox oil.
I also drained gear oil out of mine and refilled it with Royal Purple 10-30. I did notice a nicer shift but that could have been as much the clean oil as it was the change from gear oil to 10-30. Could have been placebo too! All I do know is that the oil in the gearbox is clean.
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So what you're saying is that I need to find a way to make my rod longer?
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  #4519  
Old 20th August 2012
900power 900power is offline
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Without using a lift, is it possible to remove the exhaust from my 91 convertible? The section I'd like to remove is from the catalytic converter back. I think the rear axle might be in the way.

I discovered an exhaust leak from the seam of the muffler. I was hoping to take the the exhaust to a welder to avoid the muffler shop prices.

Thanks
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  #4520  
Old 20th August 2012
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Without using a lift, is it possible to remove the exhaust from my 91 convertible? The section I'd like to remove is from the catalytic converter back. I think the rear axle might be in the way.

I discovered an exhaust leak from the seam of the muffler. I was hoping to take the the exhaust to a welder to avoid the muffler shop prices.

Thanks
I've replaced the whole system from the cat back with the car up on jacks. You probably have to separate it at the rear muffler as well--I can't be certain now...
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