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| Saab 9-3 & NG900 Performance, Mods & Tuning Covers Tuning & Performance modifications for the Saab 9-3 98'-02' & NG900 |
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#1
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I have just bought a 1998 9-3 SE convertible. It is the 2.0l and i don't think it is the LPT (still double checking) so i have a somewhat unimpressive 130bhp. In another forum a member who saw a photo commented that I should replace the orange side blinkers with clear ones and I could achieve an extra 5BHP......and another agreed. I am intrigued
I feel super gullible even asking this question, but what the heck here goes, is it true??? If it is how does it work? Last edited by hughm; 28-01-05 at 04:37 AM. |
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#2
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We purely joke around about this. We here at the SAAB forums respect our cars, and most of us actually do modifications that make the car move better (around turns and in a straight line) WE do minor visual modifications that make the car look more classy not horrible.
that extra 5hp is a joke aimed at "Ricers" which is usually described as teens (I am 19 and hate ricers) with honda civics with huge wings that dont do anything and millions of stickers, many times of things they dont even have. So no you will not gain 5hp, but you will gain IMO a cleaner looking front end. |
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#3
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Thank you. I feel like a complete plonker now but at least i have it out of my system.
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#4
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The scientific explanation for this is somewhat confused by competing standards.
1) IHP (Imaginary HorsePower) gains are currently plotted using both the DIN and SAE standards. By example, the clear blinker modification has been reported as yielding an additional 3 and 5 hp. Obviously it must be one or the other. Or must it? The proper way to calculate and report the gain is to specify the standard after the number, thusly: Clear Blinker Modification: 3 additional hp DIN; or Clear Blinker Modification: 5 additional hp SAE. This avoids confusion. 2) The reason for the apparent differences in the results is of course due to the differences in the standards' underlying methodologies. The IHP DIN STD. requires three separate evaluations, using a time-weighted correction per each individual evaluation, and then averaging the results, whereas the IHP SAE STD. simply requires averaging the raw results and then applying a time-weighted correction. Further complicating the picture and creating further divergence in apparent results is that the SAE methodology does not require test controls with regard to humidity or temperature, but only as to barometric pressure. Obviously, since DIN requires controls as to all three, it yields results which are more readily duplicated and verifiable. The final factor contributing to the divergence in reported gains is the obversation methodology. The SAE standard mandates that all modifications be observed through specially tinted glasses (Rose, I think) from a distance of 3.31 yards, under ASTM Std. 71.35(D)(1)(f) fluorescent lighting emitting 99,500 lumens at 3.1 feet squared per second of exposure. The lighting angle may not exceed 47 degrees, 22 minutes and 22 seconds of declination. The DIN standard is relatively significantly similar, except for one highly significant deviation. It requires multiple UV-B bursts at thirty-three second intervals during observation, and therefore the special viewing glasses must have an appropriate UV filter. A really good example of this is the difference in apparent results from my most recent engine bay bling-bling modification. I wet-sanded and polished the turbo idelivery pipe and the metal pipe to my open filter. I clear coated and then tinted them sapphire blue with colorchrome. More polishing. Painted the TBTC to match. DIN IHP: + 18 hp SAE IHP: + 27 hp Finally, please note that all IHP gains are linearly cumulative. Accordingly, since washing your car equates to an immediate 3 IHP gain, and since I have washed my car 1,121 times, I have an additional IHP gain, from washings alone, of 3,363 hp. Traction is at a premium and my gear box is doomed. |
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#5
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I think your explanation should go in the tech files. |
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#6
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I remember someone debadged their red 93 saying it was a 30hp gain. I should be getting a good 15hp gain as i removed all badges on the trunk and replaced with a porche turbo emblem
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#7
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c,mon guys dont b jealous because he found a way to gain more hp.
in truth the difference in weight of the amber lenses and clear ones(or smoked) makes a significant difference and the curviture of the plastic on the clear ones is more aerodynamic, what does this all mean u ask well when one takes in to account the weight of x- the weight of y +qrs and t the outcome will b very close to 5 bhp which is where everyone seems to get this added horsepower My Theory on all of this is that the difference in weight and aerodynamics will cause less stress on the crank shaft thus releasing more power...... "takes a bow" thank you thank you I just had an ADRIAN moment... woooohoooooo |
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#8
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plonker!
I love UK English words! Last edited by abdukted1456; 28-01-05 at 09:56 AM. |
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#9
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WOW its a good thing i responded first or he might not have gotten an honest answer
and UK english words are Great |
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#10
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And then are those BRITISH words. Like knackered. That one always gets me. The Mrs. put on a few pounds over the Christmas holiday. (She spent a few too). Tried on some new duds I bought her, bent over to pick up a bow, and knackered her knickers, she did. And then there's sod. Here it is something we put down in our yards to rejuvenate bad spots in the lawn. In the UK, well, nevermind. And pi&&ed? Here we are angry but over there they are "in their cups," or besotted.
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#11
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I love all your explanations, i BELIEVE that I will achieve an extra 5bhp and therefore i will, even if i have to get somebody to get out and push or perhaps even attach a very powerful hair dryer to the boot running off the cigarette lighter and vent it out the back, the extra propulsion from the dryer has got to outweigh the extra weight of itself by at least 5bhp equivalent.
On a different note, I would like to retract my earlier word "plonker" and replace it with a more appropriate stereotypical expression for my country of origin such as "eejit", "moron", "spa" "twat" "pillock" or "gobsh-ite". As you may appreciate I am not infact English or indeed from the UK. I am from that miserable small island slightly to the left of Britan and significantly to the right of the US (physically that is, definately not politically) |
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#12
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Thoroughly washing the car gives 3 IHP, but completely waxing it with 100% pure Icelandic Bumblebee snot will give 12 IHP more. You get 4 from the additional bling-bling shine and a whopping 8 from the decreased coefficient of drag. You can also increase top speed capability by inflating your tires to 712 psi (it realling cuts down on that annoying rolling resistance).
And I hope I do not need to say this, but if you steal a V-Tech badge and a Type R badge and put them on, you gain the incredible (literally) additional eleventy-three point nine million IHP. |
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#13
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LOL! this is definately the most hilarious thread ive read in a long time!
hah! plonker! |
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#14
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I saw a "bsr" badge on a site for sale...stage one upgrades give you 40-60 HP, so i think the badge probably contributes half of that...and it's only 7 dollars....so go out and buy a bsr badge if you REALLY want hp, in the long run, you'l thank me for letting you in on the secret, and yea....I'm serios man
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#15
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well guys lets not mis inform people.. as this is probably the most informative thread this site has ever had.
it is not so much the badge... hell if it were i would go out and buy every siR badge i could find....it is the placement of the badge now if u put a vtec badge over in the top right corner of the back of the car.. this is minimal gains because the badge is not in the perfect center of the back.... again read my information about weight distribution up top... this kind of orientation nets very little gain... now lets say u have a nice vtec bling bling centered right underneath the saab emblem on the 9-3 or in the center of the decor panel... now this is where the fun starts make sure to use lots of high quality super glue... not that crappy 3m tape... psshhh... ultimate gain comes from this... if u r one of the unfortunate plonkers that thought it was a good idea to debadge your car like i did... geez what a mistake... dont worry u probably only set off the weight distribution by a couple hundred pounds... hope is not lost... just go grab some lead bricks and through them in the two back corners of the trunk and the car will b back to normal cheers hope i've sorted some problems.... hope u r really gay with your results |
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#16
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gay with your results....LMFAO
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#17
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written by clevesaab i think
Quote:
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#18
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There is one thing you all have forgotten (I can't believe it either!).
Does anyone coat their windows with a "Rain X" type solution? I use the Prestone stuff (very much like a wax - you rub it in, not off). Anyway ... it acts just like a wax on the paint ... the rain (snow, sleet, etc) just runs off the car as you drive down the road, no wipers necessary. Considering that the windshield, side windows, and rear window make up a very large portion of the surface of the car, treating them will easily gain you 27 IHP! And that doubles when driving in the rain ... and you can sqeeze out an extra 12 IHP if you don't use your wipers at all on the trip. |
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#19
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Well Okay, it is time to get serious. One way to increase performance is to increase HP. OR, you could increase HP to weight ratio by lightening the load. These modifications are much less expensive than the cost of increasing HP.
This is MY PLAN: 1) Go on a diet. (Not a crash diet, as that defeats the purpose. If you are losing weight to increase the performance of the car, you certainly do not want to crash the car!) Estimated weight loss, if you adhere to the plan and are diligent: 30 pounds 2) The stock Saab front bucket seats weigh about 50 pounds each. I took mine out and put in reclining, adjustable aluminum and nylon lawn chairs. And they come in a myriad of two-tone color schemes. The front to back adjustment is nearly infinite. You can move them back as far as the back seat will allow, and if that is not far enough, toss 'em out and drive from the back seat like the Mrs. does when you are driving. Estimated weight loss: 97 pounds (-100 on the stock seats + 3 for the lawn chairs) 3) Lose the battery and put on a hand crank circa 1903. Estimated weight loss, 35 - 40 pounds. 4) You got windows, bag the AC. Estimated weight loss: 75 pounds for all the plumbing, compressor, dryer and accumulator. PLUS, 20 to 30 RHP (Real Horse Power) gain from elimination of the parasitic drag of the compressor. 5) You are driving, moron. You should not be distracted by tunes or by searching for the station you want. The radio and speakers are outta here. Estimated weight loss: For some of you car stereo fanatics, probably about 100 pounds; for the rest of us, about 30 pounds. 6) In those states where it is still legal to use hand signals, get rid of those pesky turn signals. Plus, all the hand signalling will help you implement Step 1), above. Estimated weight loss: 15 to 20 pounds. 7) Carpet. It is a car not your living room. Lose it. Estimated weight loss: 20 pounds. 8) Got kids? Then toss all the sound insulation. On a long trip the deafening road noise will drown out the sound of whining and/or fighting, or both, bratty kids. Estimated weight loss: 15 to 20 pounds. 9) You can now spare the spare. If your car gets a flat, just abandon it and set on fire as leave. It ain't worth nothin' anymore anyhow. Estimated weight loss from the spare: 35 to 40 pounds. From the car, post ignition, about 3,150 pounds (what was left of the car after steps 1 through 8, above. |
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#20
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OK ... only one question ... how long did it take you to come up with all that!
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