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  #1  
Old 9th December 2004
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Default Key broken, new one doesn't turn

I know, I know. There was a lot of topics about it but forgive me my English I can hardly get an idea. I didn't have 'reverse lock' or maybe it didn't work. I used to leave the car at any gear, no problems with getting out the key. Morover, any key worked. 2 days ago I slipped into my Saab put the key in, didn't turn it at all and try to get to neutral without starting the engine. Suddenly appeared I had only half of my key in my hand. The other one was inside ignition. Allright, I managed to put the other part out, get it to the specialist who made me a copy. Copy's good because it works with my door locks but it didn't help me with ignition. New key doesn't turn at all, I can hear some metal-to-metal sound when it goes about 1 milimeter clockwise. I can't get reverse, I can feel how gearstick (or something) touches something metallic which block reverse gear. I suppose something has turned upside down and now doesn't let me turn the key. OK. I tried to remove central console but I don't know what to do else - I mean I can't get with gearstick. How should I romove it? And then what? I assume I CAN unscrew 3 screws which attach gearstick to some ball. May I? And then...it's a total mystery. I send a picture - perhaps somebody can give me a clue (by numbers) what's what and what I have to do to unlock my baby.
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  #2  
Old 9th December 2004
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Can you put it in reverse and then turn the key?
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  #3  
Old 9th December 2004
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If you have to take it apart:
Take out one or both seats.
Take out plastic trim around gear stick.
Remove one door sill trim
Roll back carpet.
3 special nuts (part 59) hold casting to floor, remove these with a piece of steel tube cut to fit. There is a special tool, but easy to make one.
Turn casting on its side to see screws in bottom (61) and then you can remove top cover (50).
Inside, some gears joining lock to ignition switch, a spring (39?), and a lever (34).
Usually it needs a clean, and a new spring.
Broken spring can jam in gears.

If it's very bad PFS sell a repair kit http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product...oducts_id=2550
There's a picture of the gears and springs.
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Old 9th December 2004
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I'd get the key (or if any key turned before, it a beefier key) as deep in the ingnition as possible and just wiggle it as much as possible until it turns. I've had this happen a few times and if you stick with it, eventually it'll just turn like there was never a problem. Waggle the shifter a bunch here and there and keep wiggling the key. It should go eventually.
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  #5  
Old 10th December 2004
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Are you sure the fact, that if I wiggle a little the key revers will unlock itself? Or is it waiste of time? Remember I can't set gearstick to reverse now - every other gear is no problem but reverse.
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  #6  
Old 10th December 2004
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If it's out of reverse and the key is out, it can be a problem. If you can try wiggling the key and try engaging reverse at the same time it may help since you will be moving the lockout mechanism from both ends.
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  #7  
Old 10th December 2004
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Yes, it's out of reverse. When I want to put gearstick into reverse I can feel some metal thing blocking me from doing this. And the key is out. Has anybody - who has exact symptoms - managed to unblock the ignition just by wiggling key?
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  #8  
Old 10th December 2004
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Were you pulling up on the little thing underneath the gearstick when you were trying to put it into reverse? Because you have to pull it up to get it into reverse. The thing UNDER the knob on the top of the gear stick.
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  #9  
Old 10th December 2004
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You mean this thing which is necessary to get into reverse? Yes, I pull it up. No results.
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  #10  
Old 10th December 2004
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Try undoing and taking out the gearstick and see can you see anything from there. Could it be that your gearstick pin is too long? I can't remember the details but there should be a 22.5mm protrusion of some part. If that has slipped, you may not get reverse...
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  #11  
Old 10th December 2004
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And that could be also cause of blocked ignition?
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  #12  
Old 10th December 2004
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It may be the cause but I'm not sure of that at all.
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  #13  
Old 10th December 2004
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The pin on the bottom of the gearstick ball is part of the mechanism that stops you getting reverse unless you lift the collar on gearstick. It's not part of the ignition lock.
The ignition lock is where lever 34 moves to trap back of horizontal gear shaft in reverse position.
It sounds as if your lock is now wrong side of this lever.
.
This assembly was made by the swedish lock company ASSA, it's meant to be differcult to take apart so that the car is hard to steal. You can't get in to lock by removing gearstick.
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  #14  
Old 10th December 2004
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It does wear quite badly as well. There are metal parts which rub against other metal parts and things eventually wear out. A sure fire way to get this sorted is to lift the casting. Once you've got the casting off you will see the problem.

You should be able to make a tool which is strong enough to un-do the 'strange' nuts either using the method mentioned earlier or by cutting grooves into an old socket.

You then have the option of removing the security feature or fixing it.
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  #15  
Old 10th December 2004
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Well when I got a new key cut for my car it worked for the doors but not the ignition. I had to take them back and make the key more worne down to look like the original key, now the key works fine.
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  #16  
Old 11th December 2004
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OK. New facts on the way:
1. Shifting lever boot removed.
2. Three wicked 3-winged-nuts removed. Large screwdriver and a hammer - that's the solution
3. Don't know how to move metal gear shafting. Until I can't pull white plastic thing from ventilation duct I can't unscrew 2 bottom screws. I shooked it, pulled and everything else but I was gentle because I'm afraid of damages I could do to gearbox. This is some like part 2A at front.gif diagram. Can I pull it by force?
3. I can see my problem comes from part 34 at diagram spring.gif. If I manage to remove the metal cover and reach that spring will my work be finished? I appreciate all answers.
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  #17  
Old 11th December 2004
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Isn't it that part in the second picture which is just above the blue 39 number.
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  #18  
Old 11th December 2004
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The 3 pronged nuts are out, so you should be able to lift the casting off the floor enough to turn it on it's side.
You need to get the top metal cover off to see inside and reach springs and gears.
This cover is held by 3(?) screws from underneath, you can see the ends of the captive nuts they fit in on top of the cover. Looks like the screws from underneath are part 51 and 51A, the captive nuts are part 52.
You should not have to remove the rod that connects to gearbox itself, should be enough play to turn casting on it's side. Can you lift enough to use a angled screwdriver?
Some early 84 86? 5 speed cars have a gear centring spring system which clips around the gearbox rod further forward. If yours is one of these cars that may be preventing you lifting the casting enough - this centring assembly just screws to floor
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  #19  
Old 11th December 2004
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Another thought - Have you removed centre console section below dashboard.
If you have the ventilation duct is held by 2 screws up and under the dashboard.
The white plastic base can stay attached to casting - its only that back metal cover you need to remove.
Fred
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  #20  
Old 11th December 2004
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picture might help,
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