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NG900 & OG9-3 Workshop NG900 (1994 to 1998) & OG9-3 (1999-2002) & '03 Convertible Technical Forum

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  #21  
Old 28th April 2009
AddictedToSaab AddictedToSaab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davestlouis View Post
I just can't figure out which part of the adjuster needs to be turned, and what direction? I've stared at it, tinkered with it, just can't seem to get it. I'm looking for a simple "turn this nut this direction" sort of instruction.
I ended up having my friend fix it and asked him to explain, I've since forgotten. Maybe he did, maybe he didn't I can't remember. If you find out, please post in here!
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  #22  
Old 28th April 2009
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If you need more freeplay in the clutch, you need to shorten it by screwing the adjustment nuts closer together. If you need less freeplay, then screw the adjustment nuts farther apart. By turning them, you should see whether you are loosening or tightening them. That's why I like the OEM self-adjustable cables... Ron
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  #23  
Old 28th April 2009
davestlouis davestlouis is offline
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But which nuts, the ones on the ends of the sheath, or the one in the middle? I know it sounds simple but...
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  #24  
Old 28th April 2009
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The ones in the middle. There are a pair of nuts, one of them is a lock nut, in the middle of the cable. Loosen the lock nut first. You want to LENGTHEN the sheath, which puts more tension on the cable inside. IIRC, you turn the center nut closest to the distal end of the cable (closest to the front of the car) counterclockwise. These cables need to travel a certain distance relative to the sheath length. As the inner cable stretches, they no longer have the requisite travel, so you need to lengthen the sheath to restore this travel. Here are the cables, stock self-adjusting on top (thanks to Jeremy R's earlier post of 06/20/05):

I believe you can see the sheath separate or lengthen as you turn it, when you are turning it correctly. Glad I went hydraulic.
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  #25  
Old 28th April 2009
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Okay, I just reviewed the SaabSite FAQ for this. It is the nut in the center that drives the plastic bolt shank into and out of the long white plastic hosuing. More bolt threads showing means expanded sheath (tighter cable) and fewer threads showing means the opposite. So, start turning the nuts in opposite directions and see which way starts exposing the threads on the shank. This will be the correct way to go.
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  #26  
Old 28th April 2009
widuck1 widuck1 is offline
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Default Another often overlooked item is lube on the clutch shaft

There is a way to open an inspection port in the transmission and squirt a bit of grease on to the shaft where the throwout bearing slides. Makes the workload less on the cable system. Extends it's life and makes clutch pedal effort easier. search here for more detailed intructions. 5 minute job.

Best,

John
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  #27  
Old 29th April 2009
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It takes me more than five minutes just to get that little plastic cover off and on. I finally drew arrows on it (the inside) so i knew which way was up... Ron
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  #28  
Old 14th May 2009
davestlouis davestlouis is offline
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Well, that went poorly...tried to adjust it and broke the plastic housing instead. The clutch still works for the moment, but I need a new cable. So much for a simple little 5 minute job.
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  #29  
Old 14th May 2009
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Did you figure it out? It's pretty easy. Just hold the center section with a wrench and unscrew the right section with a wrench on the top, pulling towards you. This will lengthen the cable and take out the free play. The brass things on each end are not used to adjust the cable... Ron
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