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Sportcombi dual Exhaust trailer hitch & wiring DIY

7.9K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  AVguy  
#1 ·
There have been a # of posts on this but none that seemed definitive.
While this is what I successfully did-standard warning, no guarantees and I am not responsible for anything you do to your car. :nono;

The correct, inexpensive, hitch for the Sportcombi w/ Dual Exhaust is the Curt 11140. Etrailer has it but customhitch.com has it for $91. Another site had it and wiring for $109. No need to get the Canadian SAAB hitch for >$500.
Hitch bolts up no problem and trimming the under-shield was also easy. Loose fit the hitch w/ it in place, mark it and cut w/ tool of choice. I cleaned the factory threads w/ a tap (M10) and then greased everything very well for corrosion protection. Instructions are decent.

I bought my wiring from etrailer as well but it was overpriced and over optioned. You do not have to run a 12V line back to the control module. The fuse #8 should be empty and is 20A. Just use an ATM fuse power takeoff (10A) and you are golden. Whatever kit you choose, it needs to have a power/ relay module or you will likely toast the car wiring or something else important.
Using clip on splices, wiring is very easy, even w/o pictures. After removing the access panels, you will see an easily accessible flat 6 pin connector on the taillight panel. Squeeze @ narrow edges and remove these from both sides of the car. Pins are labeled 1-6. On the drivers side, remove the closest hold down so you can get at enough of the cable. Rotate the hold-down so the flat side is toward you and pull out gently. Use a pair of stiff tweezers to squeeze the release tabs in the center of the part. Should pull out easily. (Needle nose pliers are too fat to get to the tabs.)

On the drivers side, wiring is as follows-
Pin 1, Brake, Brown wire w/ yellow stripe
Pin 4, Left Turn, Black wire w/ white stripe
Pin 6, Taillights, White wire

On the passenger side-
Pin 4, Right Turn, Black wire w/ purple stripe
Wring everything out w/ a meter first to confirm but this is what I found. The lower rear mounting nut for the fuse panel makes a nice connection point for ground. Be careful w/ the "squeeze to splice" connectors that the wires are centered in the channels of the part or you can cut the wires w/ the clip instead of splicing. Wire to control module per those instructions. Mount control unit where you'd like (I used double sided tape and attached to the side of the spare wheel tub.)
For the drivers side- Remove the black trim between the storage area and the bumper (2 plastic "pins" in the storage cpt, press the centers down and then remove. Pull the panel straight up and the other clips release). Route the driver side wire through there and into the taillight compartment.

I installed a 4 flat, no brakes. For brakes you will likely need 10 GA lines to the battery for power and ground and multiple fuses since most are 30A. You'll have to dig for this info but I have no intention of towing anything large enough to require brakes. Going camping this weekend and will follow up to say how it tows.

Peace- D ;ol;
 
#2 ·
YES! Thanks a ton for writing this up, this thread deserves a response.

Installed one last week (was a snap) and towed a loaded 5x8 uhaul trailer on Saturday. Using a fuse tap off #8 was a fantastic suggestion; learn something new every day.:cool:
 
#4 ·
And also seemingly no longer available unfortunately, couldn't find all the bits for the factory hitch (ie the wiring harness). After seeing it and bolting it up, the aftermarket seems adequate IMO, the brunt of the weight is on the frame under the bumper cover. I'll be dragging stuff back west in a few months, so I guess we'll see :) Agree it's really strange the aftermarket hitches use the tow loop as a bolt support.
 
#7 ·
Thank you for posting this. I was researching all day and ended up buying the exact same kit you have out of sheer luck and desperation. Got the hitch for 95 bucks on ebay and a 40$ power relay module.
To do it the saab way, would need the towing module that connects to the REC which is 75 bucks on eeuro (out of stock too) and need another impossible to find wire harness that connects the towing module to your trailer. I cant find this anywhere but it appears to retail for 75ish as well. If this 250$ saab kit was still available, id buy it in a heartbeat but is absolutely nowhere to be found. Anyways, for 150 bucks and a few hours of your time, I think the above poster has the right idea.
 
#11 ·
My owner's manual (MY2008) indicates that the rated towing capacity is 3500 lbs. with brakes, 1000 lbs without. Naturally, you wouldn't want to try to accelerate hard with that extra load. Driving with a trailer requires driving more conservatively, with lighter throttle application, longer following distance, and expect more brake pressure for a given stopping rate.
 
#13 ·
AFAIK all of the Saab branded hitches for this generation of 9-3 are rated at 1000 Lbs without trailer brakes and 3500 Lbs with trailer brakes. The real issue in the tongue weight rating which is 165 Lbs. That tongue rating is quite low by North American standards. As an example in Europe it is common to have caravan trailers that are setup to work with those kind of ratings but good luck finding one in the US. Uhaul trailers tend to be quite heavy with tongue weights that exceed the Saabs rated weight.

Checking thesaabsite.com it appears the have a limited stock of the sportcombi version of the Saab branded hitch. The hitch for the sedan/vert is out of stock and may in fact be discontinued. Trying to get confirmation on that.