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  #1  
Old 30th October 2004
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deniss deniss is offline
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Default jacks/ramps for SPG

I guess it's a silly question but... I'm thinking what to buy to be able to lift my SPG enough so I am able to get under it and yet be friendly to its low ground clearance. I am personally more comfortable with an idea of buying a pair of ramps than a pair of jacks - seems like a safer option. So, at Sears, there are these Craftsman steel ramps selling for about $50. I like those. They provide lift height of 7 and 1/2 inches. Is it enough for me to be able to get under, or should I buy something that can raise the car up higher? (I'm a fairly big guy, so I will need some room ) It says in the description "ideal for vehicles with low ground clearance" - so I'm thinking should be fine for my SPG. They are nicely done, with wheel stops.

I would really like to know if this would be a smart purchase, or if I should invest in a different type of lift.
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  #2  
Old 30th October 2004
cargibbs cargibbs is offline
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I would buy a good quality 2.5 ton trolley jack as used in garages and a pair of jackstands to support the car when underneath. If you want car ramps, simply find/buy/borrow an old railway sleeper and cut it in half on a suitable angle to enable you to drive up it.
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  #3  
Old 30th October 2004
thebracko thebracko is offline
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Ramps SUCK. Get a jack and some good jack stands.
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  #4  
Old 30th October 2004
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I was looking at a set of ramps but decided on a quality jack and stands. The ramps would not let you work on breaks,etc behind the wheel. But for changing engine and trans oil, it seems ramps would be WAY faster. hmmm...
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  #5  
Old 30th October 2004
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ernzo2 ernzo2 is offline
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Got ramps, love them. Fast, easy, safe. USe a 2x6 in front of the ramp to get a little lift first so the low air dam does not scrape.
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  #6  
Old 30th October 2004
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what's so wrong with ramps? i have no plans of working on brake system or steering - i will let a professional handle that. what i would like to use the ramp for is to get to the front part of the exhaust and to be able to get under the engine/tranny. not for much else. the idea of a ramp just sounds better to me, more of a peace of mind thing i guess.

what i wonder most of all is if the 7.5-inch lift is enough for me to be able to get under and work there.
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  #7  
Old 30th October 2004
DeLorean DeLorean is offline
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ramps work good in addition to jacks. most ramps you will need to "extend" with some wood so that an stock SPG will make it up with out tearing it's valance or front air dam off the car.
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  #8  
Old 30th October 2004
thebracko thebracko is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deniss
the idea of a ramp just sounds better to me, more of a peace of mind thing i guess.
Well, all I'll say is that I would feel a heck of alot safer being under a heavy car like a Saab held in place by these:



Than these:



Plus, with a good jack and stands, you can be ready for any job, even just quickly swapping your wheels out. You can't do that on ramps.
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  #9  
Old 30th October 2004
DeLorean DeLorean is offline
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hey, there is nothing wrong with ramps for stuff like oil changes, and they take less time to use. I do agree that you need a good set of jack stands / and a jack as well, IMO, ramps are more of a convience item than a necessity. they will speed up a job like an oil change. as for them not being "safe", they should be just as safe as jack stands if set up right... but then that's the key, even with jack stands! they must be set up right so that one or the other is not tilting a bit. also a good idea to use a block of wood when you set the car down on the jack stand because they can crush the jacking points otherwise...
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  #10  
Old 30th October 2004
thebracko thebracko is offline
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I can have my car jacked up and on stands in about the same time it owuld take to setup some ramps and drive up on them.

But whatever, to each their own, I just think ramps are a waste when you can get a jack & stands and do little and big jobs with them.
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  #11  
Old 30th October 2004
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Ok... more questions.

1) what is the sufficient rating for the jack/stand for our classic 900? is 2.5 ton enough, or is 3 ton and above more desirable?

2) if i wanted to buy jacks/stands, do i need one jack and two stands, or do i need 2 jacks and 2 stands?

3) which brand(s) of jacks/stands would be recommended? if i invest, i like to buy the best. i like how those Michelins look, but looks can be deceiving.
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  #12  
Old 31st October 2004
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I bought the 3 ton jack and stands. I have some ramps as well but I've found that the stands are much more useful than the ramps. I wouldn't worry about the clearance thing as you can just lay some board in front of the ramps to help get enough height to get onto the ramps - just don't forget to descend carefully and back onto the boards. Also because the c900 has such a large overhang it would be difficult to find a set of ramps which would work without boards.

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  #13  
Old 31st October 2004
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I like a pair of these Snap-on ones... They are light-weight aluminum... but wonder if they are stable enough and worth the $55 they are going for on eBay. They are rated for 3 tons.

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  #14  
Old 31st October 2004
thebracko thebracko is offline
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those don't look really stable to me. You can get some good steel ones with a larger, more stable base for alot cheaper as well.
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  #15  
Old 31st October 2004
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Quote:
They are light-weight aluminum
Good job eh.. every professional should have light-weight axle-stands.
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  #16  
Old 31st October 2004
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Yea, I ended up deciding against these Snap-ons. I am more comfortable with the conventional 3-ton ones, like the picture of blue Michelins above in this post.

So basically, will this combo be a good purchase? 3-ton jack and 3-ton jack stands.


someone mentioned padding the jack/stands with pieces of wood... is that for jacks or for stands? because stands seem to have this sort of a curvy grip rather than having a flat grip... it would probably just crush a wood block this way.
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  #17  
Old 1st November 2004
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It was to do with not wanting to bend the jacking point area. My axel stands fit into the jacking area so they don't bend the metal.
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  #18  
Old 2nd November 2004
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Those ratcheting axle stands are very useful. Much easier than fiddling around with a pin.

I have both ramps and stands. Horses for courses: if I need to get underneath the car, but have no need to remove the wheels then I'll use the ramps. Otherwise, it's the stands.

The problem I have is that the car's tyres push the ramps away from the car. I have to fix the ramps to the tarmac with masonry nails
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  #19  
Old 3rd November 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejenner
not wanting to bend the jacking point area.
Of course, you don't have to use the jacking point. That's there mostly to make it easy to change a tyre at the roadside. I'll typically use the chassis leg further in or one of the main suspension mounting points.

I also usually leave the jack up wherever I lifted it. Nothing like extra insurance...

In my younger days (way back in the mists of time) when I had no tools or equipment, my jackstands were concrete blocks under the wheels...
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  #20  
Old 3rd November 2004
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Quote:
the car's tyres push the ramps away from the car
Have not had this problem myself. But I guess I've always used them on rough surfaces.

Quote:
my jackstands were concrete blocks under the wheels...
I remember this as well - mine were two short off-cuts from railway sleepers.
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