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| Saab 9-3 & NG900 Performance, Mods & Tuning Covers Tuning & Performance modifications for the Saab 9-3 98'-02' & NG900 |
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#1
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I am using a KN Filter and a Dawes device on my 1996 900 SET. I love the ride as it is right now. I just replaced the clutch, so I upgraded to the hydraulic clutch while in the middle of that mess. I am thinking about some additional upgrades. Here is some additional information about the car.
1. This is my daily driver. About 110 miles per day. 2. I want to start with the cheaper, easier DIY mods. 3. End with the complex, expensive, have someone else install them, mods. In Summary, The Mods criteria are: 1.Easy to Install 2. Drastic improvement to the quality of ride. 3. Cost. Start with: 1. Rear Sway bar: Improved Handling for cheap, easy install, instant upgrade to the quality of the ride. Cost: $100.00 2. ???? Thanks in advance! |
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#2
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2. Rack Brace
3. Subframe Brace |
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#3
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maybe add the 6 pt. subframe brace. (Easy install on a lift, slightly more difficult with jackstands.)
then, in increasing order of difficulty: poly bushings new lowering springs and shocks (Koni & H-R or B-G) |
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#4
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After those upgrades, can I go to stage 3? Does that come with the Sport exhaust?
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#5
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You mean can your car handle the power suspension-wise???
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#6
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Yes. My plan is to run this car to the ground, but while at it, have a little fun and add some more power. Since it is my daily driver, I will start with suspension upgrades and THEN move to power upgrades. I think suspension upgrades will have the greatest impact on the quality of my ride. power is nice, but since I am driving so much and so often on stop and go traffic, who needs 300hps to move 1 foot?
Ease of DIY is the number one concern. I know performance upgrades will probably require a third party for installation. |
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#7
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Yeah, new springs will run you at least $200 or so. But they will be the most effective suspension mod. You'll need good shocks and struts to go with it.
For the price, though, the new rear bar mod really makes the car corner much flatter. I have the double-stack of 2 stock bars and there's a big diff. The clamp/brace for the steering should be a must for stage 3, too. That and good tires and I would imagine you'd do fine. |
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#8
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You're definitely going about it the right way!....
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#9
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Quote:
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#10
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from the looks of it, and if it is similar to the mp brace as far as bolts go, the impact if hard enough should snap the bolts right off and if anything i think the brace may actually make the crumple zone a bit stiffer.
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#11
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Quote:
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#12
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Well would the subframe really be part of the plan to crumple anyway? It's pretty stiff anyway compared to the rest of the car and the engine and tranny are mounted on it. Is it possible that only the body-parts are designed to crumple? You wouldn't want the engine pushed thru the dash???
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