I couldn't find anything on this so a note about my experience of the job might be useful.
In this case the cables themselves were still working OK, but the rear calipers needed to be replaced due to corrosion, and the cables were corroded into the calipers. So I put the angle grinder through the cables and then set about changing the cables.
The routing of the cables is quite simple. No need to worry about threading the new cables in. But the cables turn through 90 degrees under the rear passenger carpet, and that presents a problem.
First step is the get access to the cables inside the car.
Open the centre armrest and lift out the rubber mat in the cubby. Remove the two torx screws.
Grip the rear fixed panel of the cubby (the bit beneath the vent, that faces the rear passengers' ankles) and snatch the upper part of it back, then lift it out.
Move the seats right back and remove the torx screws from the lower sides of the centre console. These screws fix both the forward and rear side panels.
Looking at the trim piece that matches the handbrake lever, squeeze it a little and lift it out.
Beneath the handbrake lever is a semi-circular plastic trim. Press it down near the centre (to release the retaining clip) and slide it out sideways towards the seat.
Beneath each of these two pieces there is a torx screw that needs to be removed.
You can now lift the armrest/box a little, enough to remove the rear half side panel, each side. The rear edge of each panel has a couple of pegs moulded into the plastic. Flex the panel out towards the seat to disengage the pegs and raise the rear end of the centre unit a little to remove each panel rearwards. The side panels tuck under the top of the unit, and you'll need to look carefully to see how they eventually go back in.
Slide the seats forward. You should now be able to see the cables where they emerge from the carpet and sit in the cast metal housing that serves as the handbrake pivot.
Notice that the handbrake adjustment is via the 13mm hex screw centred between the two cable nipples.
Under the car, work on each cable in turn, The right side cable is more difficult because the fuel pipes and brake hydraulics get in the way.
Unclip the cable from its steel supports and remove any plastic pick-a-back wiring clips. Use a screwdriver or w-h-y to poke the large grommet into the inside of the car.
Inside the rear of the car, remove the rear seat squab by snatching the front edge upwards and lifting the cushion out.
Grasp the carpet about the centre of the passenger's foot-well and lift it to form a V in the carpet, so as to make space under the carpet against the centre tunnel. In here is a cable tie fixing the cable to a metal lug. You need to snip the tie to remove the cable.
While you are under the carpet, cut off the grommet that you have pushed through. It would get in the way if you left it on.
In my case, I had cut the rear of the cables off, so I simply pulled the cables through into the front passenger space.
To fit the new cables, pass them from under the car through the holes in the shallow bulkhead (where the front edge of the rear seat lies). Push the grommet through and then fit the grommet in to the bulkhead from the inside, beneath the carpet.
Fit the cable nipple to the balance bar and then fit the ferrule (end of the outer cable) into the slot in the side of the mounting unit.
At the rear, pass the cable through its support loops and through the caliper, then use a screwdriver to operate the handbrake lever on the caliper and slip the nipple into place.
To connect the second cable, backing off the central 13mm adjuster (see above) will help, but don't slacken it too far, 'coz I don't know an easy way to screw it back in.
Additionally, get him indoors to operate the handbrake on the first side to give you a bit more free cable to work with when you connect the second side.
A standard cable tie can be used under the carpet on each side.
Don't forget to support the new cables on their steel clips and ensure the grommets are keeping the weather and the draughts out. The second piece of rubber on each cable is just to ensure water drips off the cable instead of being forced along to the working bits.
Reassemble the centre console in the reverse order, as they say. And replacing the seat is about the easiest part of the job. Good luck.
In this case the cables themselves were still working OK, but the rear calipers needed to be replaced due to corrosion, and the cables were corroded into the calipers. So I put the angle grinder through the cables and then set about changing the cables.
The routing of the cables is quite simple. No need to worry about threading the new cables in. But the cables turn through 90 degrees under the rear passenger carpet, and that presents a problem.
First step is the get access to the cables inside the car.
Open the centre armrest and lift out the rubber mat in the cubby. Remove the two torx screws.
Grip the rear fixed panel of the cubby (the bit beneath the vent, that faces the rear passengers' ankles) and snatch the upper part of it back, then lift it out.
Move the seats right back and remove the torx screws from the lower sides of the centre console. These screws fix both the forward and rear side panels.
Looking at the trim piece that matches the handbrake lever, squeeze it a little and lift it out.
Beneath the handbrake lever is a semi-circular plastic trim. Press it down near the centre (to release the retaining clip) and slide it out sideways towards the seat.
Beneath each of these two pieces there is a torx screw that needs to be removed.
You can now lift the armrest/box a little, enough to remove the rear half side panel, each side. The rear edge of each panel has a couple of pegs moulded into the plastic. Flex the panel out towards the seat to disengage the pegs and raise the rear end of the centre unit a little to remove each panel rearwards. The side panels tuck under the top of the unit, and you'll need to look carefully to see how they eventually go back in.
Slide the seats forward. You should now be able to see the cables where they emerge from the carpet and sit in the cast metal housing that serves as the handbrake pivot.
Notice that the handbrake adjustment is via the 13mm hex screw centred between the two cable nipples.
Under the car, work on each cable in turn, The right side cable is more difficult because the fuel pipes and brake hydraulics get in the way.
Unclip the cable from its steel supports and remove any plastic pick-a-back wiring clips. Use a screwdriver or w-h-y to poke the large grommet into the inside of the car.
Inside the rear of the car, remove the rear seat squab by snatching the front edge upwards and lifting the cushion out.
Grasp the carpet about the centre of the passenger's foot-well and lift it to form a V in the carpet, so as to make space under the carpet against the centre tunnel. In here is a cable tie fixing the cable to a metal lug. You need to snip the tie to remove the cable.
While you are under the carpet, cut off the grommet that you have pushed through. It would get in the way if you left it on.
In my case, I had cut the rear of the cables off, so I simply pulled the cables through into the front passenger space.
To fit the new cables, pass them from under the car through the holes in the shallow bulkhead (where the front edge of the rear seat lies). Push the grommet through and then fit the grommet in to the bulkhead from the inside, beneath the carpet.
Fit the cable nipple to the balance bar and then fit the ferrule (end of the outer cable) into the slot in the side of the mounting unit.
At the rear, pass the cable through its support loops and through the caliper, then use a screwdriver to operate the handbrake lever on the caliper and slip the nipple into place.
To connect the second cable, backing off the central 13mm adjuster (see above) will help, but don't slacken it too far, 'coz I don't know an easy way to screw it back in.
Additionally, get him indoors to operate the handbrake on the first side to give you a bit more free cable to work with when you connect the second side.
A standard cable tie can be used under the carpet on each side.
Don't forget to support the new cables on their steel clips and ensure the grommets are keeping the weather and the draughts out. The second piece of rubber on each cable is just to ensure water drips off the cable instead of being forced along to the working bits.
Reassemble the centre console in the reverse order, as they say. And replacing the seat is about the easiest part of the job. Good luck.
