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  #1  
Old 29th June 2004
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abdukted1456 abdukted1456 is offline
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Default Maptun problems (EDIT: MAPTUN COMES THROUGH!)

Well, stage 1 maptun chip is not working properly.

The car bucks back and forth when under hard acceleration.

when I really get on the gas, the car totally starts to take off like a rocket, the boost guage flies all the way over to the end of the red, and it feels like a rocket is attached to the car...and then it does this stop-go-stop-go thing like it's either hitting a fuel cut out or maybe hitting some sort of dead spots. it will accelerate like mad and then "hiccup", it just loses all power and "bucks" and then begins to accelerate again and then "bucks" again... it keeps doing this until I let off the gas. it will do this in any/all gears, as long as i give it some gas, reagrdles of whether i hit kick down button or not, as long as it is hard acceleration... normal city driving seems fine! this feels very scary when you are trying to pass someone on the highway! I also fear for the mechanical components of the car, it does not soound or feel healthy when this happens!

I was told to check if i have platinum plugs and if so to swap them for NKG BCPR7ES, and also that maybe my DI is not good enough for uprated ECU's, something may be wrong with it. But my car only has 16000 miles and works fine and boost right up to the red and even dips into the red a tiny bit when I put the stock ECU back in, so are either of these options (new plugs, new DI) worth a shot or is it more likely to be a problem with the software?
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  #2  
Old 29th June 2004
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I could be wrong, but it sounds to me like you are hitting fuel cutoff. Could programming be wrong? Any other mods that could be effecting it as well? If the car runs perfectly before putting in the new ECU, then I would start with the new ECU as your problem.

Good Luck

By the way, the plugs and DI are both always possible culprits, but with that low mileage, I just seems unlikely. Do make sure you have the right plugs though...
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  #3  
Old 29th June 2004
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car is STOCK except the stage 1 ecu.

I also thought maybe the programming is not right, but I was told that should not be the problem.
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  #4  
Old 29th June 2004
SQR-900T SQR-900T is offline
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try a different BPC solenoid. I have heard that on the T7 cars this part is very inexpensive at the dealer. But if you know someone with a known good one try that and see if it works better. If this part isnt working correctly the ECU will not have good control over boost. Raised boost levels would probably make this even worse. Its worth a shot.
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  #5  
Old 30th June 2004
zsenya zsenya is offline
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Did you have a CHECK ENGINE with the new ECU? If not then it should be a mechanical/sensor problem...
Does it appear during constant speed or only during acceleration

Zsenya
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  #6  
Old 30th June 2004
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car is stock ,no mbc or anything.

the car only does this during HARD acceleration, and there is no check engine light or any other warning of any type.

funny thing is, the car seems normal with stock ecu and will boost right up to the end of orange, and even dip into red briefly, like i thought it was supposed to...

I looked into a new BPC from dealer and they want 275! too much to risk it if it may not really be the problem. maybe someone has a lead on a good used one? I will try goldwing.
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  #7  
Old 30th June 2004
CaptRossco CaptRossco is offline
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Sounds almost as if your maptun chip is dodgey. Like it was a part job. ie the parameters for boost and fuel were increased etc to give your performance increase, but the safety limts not adjusted. ie the cars brain configures to it being run on stock boost and torque settings thus cutting it all out as you bleed in boost/ torque.

Id take the ECU back and replace the item. It should be an off the shelf part. Its not been configured to your exacting requirements which could cause side affects so id say its not written up properly. Change the ECU. There should be technical support from Maptun direct also.

OR is your vac hose to the wastegate actuator still on?
Maybe, just maybe the additional boost set on the remap has blown it off thus allowing no boost control, so your boost rises and rises is sent an input to taper off by opening the wastegate actuator, offcourse it doesnt open because theres no mechanical (rather vacuum) feed and boost creeps beyond desired level and your fuel is cut off. Boost drops, safety parameters reached, boost rises and the same thing happens again.

Its either the ECU or your boost control is somehow sticking, check wastegate actuator (try opening it with bike pump). The hoses could be damaged, or its corroded up. :-??
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  #8  
Old 12th July 2004
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Here's the latest in the neverending drama:

went to see a good indy mechanic who races Saabs. he said my car is fine, I maybe just need to adjust the base boost. We lengthened the wastegate rod a half turn, still hits fuel cut.

another half turn, fuel cut.

another half, fuel cut.

another half, fuel cut.

total turns, about 4 or 4 and a half, still hits fuel cut in sport mode, but in normal mode seems to be about 1 out of 10 times it will hit fuel cut, so this seemed "driveable". We tested it on these country back roads, where it is 55 mph roads and nothing insight but farms and barns... hit about 120 in just a little over a 1/4 mile strip of road. Car pulled like a freight train, it just pulls, and pulls, and pulls... it was almost scary. Really highlights the need for suspension upgrades, and brakes too!

So, I thought I was all set, and this thing would be at least "driveable", but i get on the highway to make the trip home, I go to pass, and BAM! fuel cuts out real hard!

So the car will still cut fuel when already at speed (65+) and you give it some gas... but starting from zero it seems to be OK. And all this is with the base boost taken down about 4-5 PSI!!!!!!! Also this is in normal mode, in Sport mode, forget it, the thing cuts fuel and passing is impossible. And shouldn't this ECU work WITHOUT turning base boost down 4 and a half turns? that's like 4-5 PSI right? And I should still be able to use sport mode, but with this ECU it hits fuel cut way too easy.

Any ideas what i should do here, anything else i could check? I am thinking this thing is going back ASAP and i am getting a refund. Then, next summer I will do Koni's and Eibachs, viggen rotors or something, and maybe after that look into Nordic or SQR... :-??

at least while we had it "semi-working" it was crazy. It was a dry day, no rain, and I have 17's with y or Z rated Pirellis, and the traction control light kept coming on when I'd give it full throttle from a stop. And you wanna talk torque steer? Now i have a little better idea what you Viggen boys have to deal with. HOLY @*#!

without TCS the tires would have lit up, no doubt....
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  #9  
Old 12th July 2004
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I strongly suggest you contact Maptun about this. You are complaining and asking about advice for a fualt on a public forum [something they'd rather you didn't do i'm sure], the car ran fine prior to install, yes? it is fair to assume therefore the maptun product could be fualty, do you have the stock ecu? or was it an exchange deal? can you borrow an alternative ecu, it is saabmeet season, why not try and hook up with someone? but if you suspect a fualty part supplied go back to the vendor, you have a contract with them for the supply of working goods.
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  #10  
Old 12th July 2004
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I agree with Raggy and Rosso.
16,000??

and...

"funny thing is, the car seems normal with stock ecu and will boost right up to the end of orange, and even dip into red briefly, like i thought it was supposed to..."

Yea man, That is EXACTLY... let me say it again
EXACTLY how it is supposed to...

Gotta' be a bad ECU. Certainly can't hurt to get an exchange??
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  #11  
Old 13th July 2004
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Yeah, I'll agree with the others. What's funny is you seem to be only dipping slightly in the red and hitting the cut, though. You should be able to get at least halfway across it before cut is an issue. Either the apc gauge is inaccurate (many times they are) or something else is the culprit here. If you notice ERP or some of the other guys whose cars are in a high state of tune, they can peg the apc gauge on their cars.

Wastegate/vac hoses or apc solenoid would be my next guess. Did that mechanic try another apc solenoid on it? And of course, I am sure he would have spotted any loose hoses. Did you ever have a good run without a fuel cut after installing the chip? But just in case, like someone said earlier, a hose blown off the wastegate would give you the same problem. I should know, it happened to my car last week.

Did you get the chip as part of that big group buy on TSL? Ask around and see if anybody else is having similar problems.
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  #12  
Old 13th July 2004
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Thanks for your replies.

First, i have been in contact with the distributor of the product and they are willing to stand by me but so far haven;'t been able to do much besides sympathise with me.

Second, I have contacted Maptun, they are hard to get a hold of sometimes and I am waiting for a reply, they may be on Holiday right now.

I am asking for advice on a public forum because this is the second time the chip did not work rightm, i already sent it back once. If they cannot offer any help, i thought maybe someone here would be able to share some insight. i am sure they woult not "prefer" i do that, but last time i asked them they told me to get a new DI cassette, which is obviously NOT the problem. So I wanted a second opinion, fair enough?

I still have my stock ECU and that's what i am running now (thank goodness!) It dips into the red barely with stock ecu, with upgraded ECU it went ALL THE WAY TO THE END, and with the wastegate turned down 4 or 5 turns, it still goes half through the red (keep in mind this is stage 1) and in Sport mode goes all the way to the end and hits fuel cut.

There were no loose hoses, the mechanic looked around for that. he didn't try a different apc/solenoid, he drove my car and said there is nothing wrong with it.

No one else on TSL had problems, they never got their money together and the group buy fell apart. Someone got a chip for his 9000 and loves it. I have never heard of this, and usually if people have problems they shout about it. So this is odd, to say the least.

Again, sorry if you felt this was not appropriate to come here looking for advice, I just haven't been getting the best help from the people who should be rushing to my aid, so I thought before i abandon this and possibly burn a bridge with this company i might try to seek out some other opinions and make an educated decision... had they offered to pay my shipping costs to return it the first time ($59.00!) and had they not insisted my car must be messed up somehow, and acutally made an attempt to help, i would not have come here for help.
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  #13  
Old 13th July 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abdukted1456
Thanks for your replies.

First, i have been in contact with the distributor of the product and they are willing to stand by me but so far haven;'t been able to do much besides sympathise with me.

.. had they offered to pay my shipping costs to return it the first time ($59.00!) and had they not insisted my car must be messed up somehow, and acutally made an attempt to help, i would not have come here for help.
Ahhh, now things are clearer, it will be tricky to verify your car is fine without trying an alternative ECU, can you borrow one? from there if everything is fine then it is fair to say you have a dud, then you'll want in writing that they'll pick up some of your costs incurred, becuase they won't want you sounding off on here about lousy service now will they? :wink: .
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  #14  
Old 13th July 2004
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No problem at all with you asking for help.
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  #15  
Old 13th July 2004
CaptRossco CaptRossco is offline
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Yeah, ths is the place for help buddy

You've done right to ask about it, and like you, ive never heard of any problems associated with Maptun Kit.

Id strongly bet that the fault is simply with the ECU. Something clearly isnt right, or its not the right one and is conflicting with your hardware. Turning the wastegate actuator rod back on Trionic cars will only make a difference when the ECU decides to apply a retard action. Thats is unless you physically lengthwen it to a point it can never quite close. You shouldnt have to touch it on a Trionic car. Maptun should take care of this.

SEND IT BACK
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  #16  
Old 13th July 2004
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this is why i asked about compatibility with auto trannies, that ecu may in fact not be for that car
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  #17  
Old 13th July 2004
CaptRossco CaptRossco is offline
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Indeed, id have thought maptun would write up the software with a smoother torque output to one on the manual. So she will drop boost so as not to cook your box
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  #18  
Old 15th July 2004
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Um yeah. So it seems they forgot to write in a new higher fuel cut. :-?? Glad i stuck with it, this thing should be a beast very soon. Will let you know how it works out. Now I just gotta get my wastegate adjusted back to normal and await the new program.
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  #19  
Old 15th July 2004
CaptRossco CaptRossco is offline
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Good, glad its solved.

Yeah reset your hardware to usual parameters. Wop in the ECU and let the rewritten trionic do all the work. The 93 Aero I had was quick, this should be equipped with transwarp :wink:
Shame you've got a auto :!
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  #20  
Old 15th July 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptRossco
Good, glad its solved.

Yeah reset your hardware to usual parameters. *** in the ECU and let the rewritten trionic do all the work. The 93 Aero I had was quick, this should be equipped with transwarp :wink:
Shame you've got a auto :!
Yeah, a shame. Oh well, that's all that wasleft in the black on black color combo, i picked it up as the new 9-3ss were arriving and as it was i had to have the dealer go searching all over the USA for this color combo, and the manuals were all taken.

next time, when I get a 9-5 Aero or something, it will be a manual. one advantage to the auto in turbo cars is you don't dump your boost between gears!
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