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Saab 9-3 & NG900 Performance, Mods & Tuning Covers Tuning & Performance modifications for the Saab 9-3 98'-02' & NG900

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  #1  
Old 26-05-04
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Default Rear Swaybar Double Stack-DIAL UP WARNING!!!

Did the mod. Got a used bar from someone $30.00 shipped. Slapped it on last night. Tried it out this morning. It really did help! I wasn't convinced it would. I have nothing to compare it to in terms of the uprated bar mod. But, the rear stays much flatter.
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  #2  
Old 26-05-04
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So, come on up to ATL and we'll throw on the 22mm bar and see what the difference is..I think that's worth a trip to ATL. It's only a couple of hours right?
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  #3  
Old 26-05-04
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Take the drive to Atlanta Brian!

Then you can send me one of your stock bars! 8)

My address is: 90 Ea ..........





Glad to hear it is everything you imagined it would be!
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  #4  
Old 26-05-04
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Spatl, Atlanta is still at least 8-9 hrs. from here! Yeah, I wish I could compare. But you have the front subframe brace, too. Don't you? My impression has been this so far: Much less roll, however, it really accentuates from tire squeal on the sharp curves. I geuss this is why people go from the front brace??? Someone's suckering me into making more mods... I can still see the need for better springs, too.

Scott, try looking on ebay under 900 parts cars. Someone may be willing to unscrew those four bolts and pop one in the mail for the right price.
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  #5  
Old 26-05-04
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Sounds like you guys are having all the fun at the moment.

I've been thinking about the chassis donor car that lead to the ng900, the European j-type Cavalier, no such rear beam issues with those cars [all the front end flex but non of the rear] the rear axle/trailing arm/torsion arm assembly is a bit [alright a lot] more substancial than the Saab unit, which IMHO has been over lightened hence 1 extra roll bar [the inner] and a stiffer rigid mount outer roll bar, my thoughts are as simple as this, if I were to source a rear axle assembly from a Cavalier at a breakers I wonder if it'll bolt straight up? I know no-one stateside can help with this but as the UK wakes up in a few hours I wonder if anyone knows, i think I could get a rear beam off a Cavalier for about Ł10 at a scrap yard.
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Old 26-05-04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkrell
Scott, try looking on ebay under 900 parts cars. Someone may be willing to unscrew those four bolts and pop one in the mail for the right price.

I'm looking, I'm looking!
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  #7  
Old 27-05-04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkrell
Spatl, Atlanta is still at least 8-9 hrs. from here! Yeah, I wish I could compare. But you have the front subframe brace, too. Don't you?
Yes, buy I was thinking, of pulling the rear bar and putting it on your car for a run. Gotta use the same car to compare. Maybe it would be worth a trip in the future if I can get any information about a Saab Headquarters tour before they move to Michegan. Have you heard that info? Moving from ATL to Detoit. So, I'm trying to get in contact to see if they are willing to take on a bunch of enthusiasts for a little while and show us around. I have no idea if there is anything to see or not but worth a try.
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  #8  
Old 27-05-04
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Quote:
So, I'm trying to get in contact to see if they are willing to take on a bunch of enthusiasts for a little while and show us around. I have no idea if there is anything to see or not but worth a try.
I'm in Raleigh, I'd be interested in coming down to join the group.
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  #9  
Old 27-05-04
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If something seems to work out, I will do a separate post so that all that want to come can. I'll keep folks informed of any progress on that.
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  #10  
Old 27-05-04
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UPDATE:

I spoke with a gentleman at headquarters to see if there was anything that could offer a bunch of enthusiasts before they move. What I found out is that the ATL headquarters is merely an office building so a tour would be seeing peoples cubicles. He did say that there are items that might not go with them to Detroit and when that list of things were identified, i.e. - pictures, etc...he would offer them to the enthusiasts of the area. If I hear anything more, I'll let people know.
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Old 27-05-04
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keep on top of that spatl cus there will be some real cracking stuff i bet,

ragtop' interesting thought there, its a pitty this wasn't thought of last month 'cus i could have had a rear axle from a cav'

boxman
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  #12  
Old 27-05-04
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Here are a few pictures of headquarters in ATL. I had more but had a compact flash card fail and they were corrupted. Some pictures of the Viggen flight academy too.
Gallery page

Nick Taliaferro
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  #13  
Old 27-05-04
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Yeah, it would be nice to compare. It would be nice to organize a Southeastern US meet.
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  #14  
Old 30-05-04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaabScott
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkrell
Scott, try looking on ebay under 900 parts cars. Someone may be willing to unscrew those four bolts and pop one in the mail for the right price.

I'm looking, I'm looking!
I found one, I found one!

Well, more like it found me I guess.
One of our trusty SC users came through in a pinch and sent me a PM ... I'll be "taking delivery" at the meet next Sunday at the Thousand Islands!

Brian, how about some details on the "nuts and bolts" of what you did ... literally, what nuts and bolts did you use?
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  #15  
Old 30-05-04
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I used 2.5 inch long 5/16" bolts. Boxman used spacers, but I didn't. There is a flattened out piece of the bar just inside of the innermost bolt holes and I was worried the two bars were going to rub or make some kind of contact in cornering but it hasn't. You can go with 3 inch long bolts, however, on the inner bolt holes 3 inch bolts will push against the spring seats. That's if you are going to keep the bolts the same orientation as stock
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  #16  
Old 30-05-04
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OK ... next question ... what did it take to get the original bolts out?
Soak them in WD40 or just break them off?
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  #17  
Old 30-05-04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkrell
I used 2.5 inch long 5/16" bolts.
You should have used M8 x 60mm for the authentic Euro feel .

More seriously use a fine thread if you can source some, such as 5/16 UNF, stainless is not necessarily a good choice [weaker] good quality plated bolt are a good choice.
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  #18  
Old 31-05-04
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Actually Raggy, I don't know if it's past maitn. by the previous owner or what but I find I have a hodge podge of metric and standard bolts and fittings on my car. Maybe it's just that Saab meets gm thing.

I just sprayed mine w/ wd-40, drove to the parts store to get some new bolts and when I got back, they came right off. However, I've never really had a problem with rusted nuts and bolts anyway. I guess it's the lack of road salt.
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  #19  
Old 31-05-04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkrell
Actually Raggy, I don't know if it's past maitn. by the previous owner or what but I find I have a hodge podge of metric and standard bolts and fittings on my car. Maybe it's just that Saab meets gm thing.

I just sprayed mine w/ wd-40, drove to the parts store to get some new bolts and when I got back, they came right off. However, I've never really had a problem with rusted nuts and bolts anyway. I guess it's the lack of road salt.

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  #20  
Old 08-06-04
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OK ... got mine!


Let me ask a few questions ... is it worth it to repaint it?
It is just going under the car and will get all messed up anyway ...

I'll give the old bolts a good shot (or 3 - we have salt on the roads in the winter ) of WD-40 and let is soak in for a couple of days, probably try the install on Saturday, before the big clean up.
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