wheels specifications to fit 17 rims

[aeroman]

I am planning to change my 16 aero wheels in the future for 17 aftermarket wheels, just wondering what is important to know?

are all the wheels suitable if they are 17*7 and 4*108, or do I need other information? 17*7.5 is ok or not?

[Vince T]

You need this page, from Ubipa's site:

http://www.pajjakid.com/ubipa/wheel%20info.htm

The basic consensus seems to be 17x7, with offset 32-35mm or so. But, I don't think many wheels are made in 4x108 with that offset, unfortunately. However, makes a spacer - I believe it is the same as used on their 5-bolt conversion kits - that is 10mm. They advertise 8mm, but I measured mine and they are 10mm.

Some Ford and I think some Peugeot are 4x108 so you should be able to find wheels easily. More difficult for me here in Canada, but at least we get Focus over here, so the wheel selection is okay.

Going with spacers means longer bolts too. Stock is 30mm, so whatever spacer you use, add its length to get your new bolts.

When you are shopping for wheels, ask and see if the bolt holes can take a 14mm diameter bolt, as this is what is used on our cars. Lots of aftermarket wheels are only 12mm, and will need to be drilled out, or else adaptor studs used instead.

[Alex]

Originally Posted by Vince T

The basic consensus seems to be 17x7, with offset 32-35mm or so. But, I don't think many wheels are made in 4x108 with that offset, unfortunately.

Standard Ford fitment in the UK and Europe is 4x108 with a 35mm offset, so the choice of rims is large over here.

Once the wheel has been found the tyre choice is equally important for the ease of fit. Tyre widths can vary quite significantly from the claimed widths. A couple of years ago one of the 'performance' magazines ran a large test of tyre widths. They found that tread of their selection of 205s ran from 195 up to 210+ and the 215s varied from less than 205 up to 220+. Some tyres have very sloped shoulders which also give greater clearance than a square shouldered tyre.

[N]

As far as Ford wheels are concerned, the PCD and offsets are correct but I have been told that the centre bore is smaller so they won't fit a SAAB. I had this problem when getting my wheels. You can get ford fitment easily and cheaply, but you need to find a manufacturer who does multi-fitments, and they usually give a set of nylon rings for the centres to take the diameter down. Alternately you can buy ford wheels and get the centres opened up in a machine shop. This was the way that I was going to go, but you invalidate any warranty that comes with the wheels

[Alex]

A lot of wheels seem to come with the multi-size bore fitting system these days. I certainly didn't have problems with the Kahns fitted to mine.

[Vince T]

Is the Focus 35mm offset for 6" wide wheels? Because of course the required offset will change when wheel width changes too.

Aeroman should also be aware that the Saab centre bore is what, 65mm? Can't remember offhand, but Ubipa's site should show it. Most aftermarket wheels come with larger centrebores, and then they supply centering rings for your specifica application. I think my OZs are about 70mm, and then they gave me alloy centering rings.

Now I'm off to track down a set of M14x1.5 40mm long locking bolts, and all will be good!

[Alex]

I don't know about the standard offset for a Ford but they seem to use 35mm when sized at 17x7.

[aeroman]

thanks all for your help :wink: I will check Ubipa website

[Ubipa]

17x7 is a good size rim for c900's. 16x7 have issues and anything bigger seems too much.

With rear axle pushed forward 0.4", front alignment set some where around negative 0-0.5degrees, and 10-11" 400+ sport springs , offset is dependent on tire width.

40mm for 205 series and 32-35mm for 215.

I personally favor the 40mm w/ 205's. The setup fits in the well more appropiately. I had this setup for +1yr w/o any issues. Theres a tiny rub in the front on full turn (tire to spring coil), but is very minor. this could be resolved w/ a 5" spring w/ custom spring seat.

Centerbore on aftermarket rims are usually 72-73mm, with hubcentric rings to adjust. Lug bore is the tricky part, most 4x108 40mm rims in US are for focus, so they are 12mm using the normal 60deg conical seating (saab <60deg)
Best advice in this case is to change over to studs w/ a stud conversion 14mm-12mm or 14mm-1/2" and then also switch to tuner nuts since alot of rims have gone this route.

[GearHead]

is one of the C900 wheel spacings 4x114.3?

[jimmythefly]

Originally Posted by GearHead

is one of the C900 wheel spacings 4x114.3?

Yep. 87 and older. C900s that use this spacing have a handbrake that operates on the front wheels.

[GearHead]

thanks.Is there any advantage to front VS rear handbrake besides with rear you can do burnouts? 8)

[NSE]

If you ever had to use it as an emergency brake it's easier to stop straight with front brakes.

Your car must be pretty gutless if you need the handbrake to do a burnout. :P

[jimmythefly]

I'd say not much, considering Saab decided to move the handbrake to the rear wheels after 87.

NSE, I always thought it was easier and safer to have the handbrake on the rear wheels. My reasoning is that if you lock up the rear brakes, at least you can still steer with the front wheels. :-??

EDIT:Pay no attention to this looney (see below)!

[NSE]

Maybe I'm way off here but my rational is that the front brakes normally do most of the braking and the front handbrake would be less likely to lock up.

Saab must have had an explanation for using this setup but I don't know what it was. Anyone?

One thing I don't like about the front handbrake is when I jack up the front of the car I have to block the rear wheels.

[Alex]

Originally Posted by jimmythefly

I'd say not much, considering Saab decided to move the handbrake to the rear wheels after 87.

NSE, I always thought it was easier and safer to have the handbrake on the rear wheels. My reasoning is that if you lock up the rear brakes, at least you can still steer with the front wheels. :-??

Brake systems are designed to lock the front wheels first to keep the car stable. If the rears lock then there is the chance of the rear of the car overtaking the front.

[Johann F]

Quite true - if you lock the rear wheels in an emergency at speed you will do an instant 180 That's why it's always important to have good tyres on the rear - it's not the place for your worn out front ones!

[jimmythefly]

D'oh! ops:

Thanks for setting me straight! That still leaves the question of why have the handbrake at the rear? All other vehicles I've owned have this, yet it seems that it would be safest at the front?

I can see how the front wheels ahve a lot going on already in a FWD car, but saab figured a way to do it, then purposely switched the brake to the back. What gives?

[Alex]

Front brakes tend to get hotter than the rears, and so there is more relaxation after the car is parked. Most people do not seem to be bothered to leave the car in gear when parked so it isn't unusual for front hand braked cars to roll (this happened with Citroens a couple of years back).

The 9000 doesn't have a gear lock, so Saab may have switched to a rear handbrake because of this. The c900 probably changed to keep the parts consistent between the cars.