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9-3 V6 Aero 6 speed auto transmission issues

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46K views 63 replies 20 participants last post by  JDavidAero  
#1 ·
I got a great deal on a 2006 9-3 Aero with the auto 6 speed. Only 47k miles, great shape (except for the AC buttons :) ).

It has been a bit klunky with the 1 to 2 gear shift since I got it.

I did the transmission fluid rotation (not quite done yet, but I've got 3 quarts cycled now), and if anything it seems a bit worse rather than better.

Do these things just "do that"? Or will chipping the car with something like the Vermont Tuners setup clean it up? Or do I have a servo failing?

Most of the time it works well. But occasionally, more often when cold, it will pause when I am manually trying to make the 1-2 shift via the buttons. If I do it just right (like I would do a clutchless upshift on my motorcycle) it goes well. But otherwise, it can lag, let the engine rev, then slam into gear.

In auto mode the car sometimes acts a bit confused, particularly if I barely roll a stop sign. If I come to a complete stop it's generally well behaved.

I don't need to pretend this is a Ferrari with a flappy paddle, so if you have to do the RPM matching thing to get the buttons to work anyway, no whining from me. I really just consider the "manual mode" to be a good replacement for the "winter button" my beloved 2001 9-3 had (may it rest in peace).

If it is a servo, how hard are they to replace? From what I have heard, I thought it could be done with the engine in place. I have access to a lift and am a pretty good wrench (rebuilding old motorcycles from buckets of parts, including fabricating parts). Cars aren't much worse, just more annoying to get into, and more likely to remove a toe if I do something stupid. ;)
 
#2 ·
First gear in the Aeros is pathetic... mine takes me to about 15mph if I let it rev high enough; the transmission is quite indecisive when it comes to shifting out of first/second. If you're steady on the pedal it does a good job though. Some people with manuals just skip first altogether, especially with the torque bonus from a vTune
 
#3 ·
Do a search for "Transmission Valve Body" and you'll get tons of info on this.

The delayed shifting into first is somewhat normal for this transmission, but I think it can be traced back to the valve body as well. Some people have said that the problem went away or was minimized with replacement. Mine does it too, and has gotten progressively worse over the last 25K miles or so (I have 125K on the car). The transmission has always been a bit clunky from day 1 though (I bought the car new).
 
#7 ·
It's clunky, pure and simple. I had the valve body replaced on mine, and while it was better, it certainly wasn't an amazing difference. If I'd had to pay for it, I'd have been upset at how little difference it made, but GM footed the bill for it. I think it's something you just gotta live with. That being said, I don't think I've ever seen anybody report a total failure of the tranny, so that's the upside. Just drive it and don't worry about it.

J
 
#8 ·
I just had my transmission fluid replaced (drained and refilled twice, so about 75% new fluid is in there), and WOW all the transmission clunkiness is gone. Manual mode shifts are instant, shifts are smooth, and since I had just replaced the ignition coils and plugs the car is now so smooth you can't even tell the engine is on. If you guys have never changed the tranny fluid and you're near 60k miles or over, go do it RIGHT NOW.

Get a reputable saab indy or dealer to do it though, and make sure they only drain + refill and don't try to hook up a machine to your transmission to flush it out... flushing might cause problems but drain + refill is perfectly safe. My shop charged me an hour and a half of labor and I bought the oil myself (AW1 spec ATF from rmeuropean) so the total damage was around $250 but completely worth it and it's good for the next 60k miles or so.
 
#9 ·
Could be just normal. Did you use only the Saab oem AW 1 fluid?
How did the fluid look coming out?

Valve body could be wearing out however. Good thing is that it is relatively cheap, about $700, and 3 hours labor so you could probably cover that yourself.
 
#10 ·
Sounds like a definite problem. I don't play with the paddles as much as you but with the 08' it revs high or low until I tell it what to do and it sure doesn't rev then slam into the next gear and I know what you mean since my trusty T-100 Toyota started doing that after someone borrowed and abused it, from what I was told, the shift lever was "accidentally" rammed down while it was on the highway. After that it would occasionally slip a bit and then shift with a noticeable "thump".

I would try to find a small independent transmission shop, one of my old friends runs one and does all of the dealers in town as well as the indie mechanics. Usually, even the indies will not touch an automatic since they are a pretty complex series of valves and gates.
 
#11 ·
My fluid came out dark and obviously ready to be replaced, but not horrible. It didn't smell badly burnt or anything.

I used the high-zoot genuine tranny oil. Pricey stuff!

I have a couple more cycles to do... I did three quarts so far. It isn't horrible (yet), it just clearly gets confused sometimes.
 
#12 ·
My fluid came out dark and obviously ready to be replaced, but not horrible. It didn't smell badly burnt or anything.

I used the high-zoot genuine tranny oil. Pricey stuff!

I have a couple more cycles to do... I did three quarts so far. It isn't horrible (yet), it just clearly gets confused sometimes.
It is known to be slow. I much prefer the 5 speed auto in my wife's Vector 9-3. Part of the problem is apparently how it is programmed to help the V6 meet mileage requirements. Likes to go 1 -2 then straight to 6th. Found this very frustrating when I bought my TX. Drive it mostly in tiptronic mode but most of my trips are relatively short. Also, a tune will help as well - not because it remaps the gearbox but extra torque makes it less frustrating.
 
#13 ·
A few more thoughts.

There was a TSB for '06's re. throttle tip in for the V6 auto. There also might have been a subsequent TSB. Also a transmission adaption via the Tech II might help however I don't really know what that consists of--I'm thinking just a TCM reboot which unplugging the batter might do the same thing.

And we have to remember that the 6 speed tranny's torque converter locks up in all 6 gears vs. 3,4, and 5 in the 5 speeds and most other trannys. I think more brand new cars are doing this now but it certainly seemed really strange to me back in 2006 when I first drove a V6 6 speed.

So change the fluid another time or two and see how things go. Overall a very good tranny so keep your fingers crossed.
 
#14 ·
Successful transmission work

My 2006 Aero SportCombi with AW 6 speed had been giving me up shifting grief for about 18 months. Mainly in 2-3 in auto mode and lately in 3-4 the odd time but only when warmed up in summer. In manual mode it rarely occurred. The symptom was a definite lag in the shift so that when the higher gear did engage the engine was revving far too high with a resulting bang. I researched for a black and white cause but no luck. Lots of advice to change the fluid which I did but still the problem persisted. I loved this car and didn't want to give up on it even at 200,000 km. I looked for transmission shops in the region around Toronto but none was willing to examine it or learn how to repair it. The former Saab, now GM only dealer proposed a 'new' unit at $5,000 + installation. I indirectly, in conversation with a technician in our lab, heard about a transmission shop in Newmarket, Ontario called Newmarket Transmission who weren't afraid of a challenge. So I took the car there and Dave took it for a short spin in the hot condition (the slipping doesn't happen in cold or Winter). He was certain it was a worn valve/solenoid body. I was skeptical because all the research made me think the root cause was sometimes time multiple causes. He did his checking with his reman source and quoted me a rebuilt body with fluid flushing using the Saab OEM spec and computer code setup. The total was $3,100 which was far less $ than a fully reman transmission. I agreed, and a week later it was complete. He kept it for a few days to check it out but all was good. Its been about 6 weeks now after about 3,000 km and not a hiccup. His observation was that this transmission is very tough and durable in the power transfer components internally but if the transmission fluid isn't changed about every 50,000 km the bores of the valves wear excessively and the slipping happens. My advice to those of you who have the same symptoms - find a transmission shop who isn't afraid of these units and admits that its not rocket science. If all else fails and you're far from Ontario, give Dave at Newmarket Transmission a call and maybe he can direct you to a shop. I have no affiliation with these guys. I'm just a satisfied customer. BTW there is also a Newmarket Transmission in NH but I don't know about their capabilities.
 
#15 ·
Thanks Erik

That's good info Erik, thank you. I did the fluid replacement when I got mine at about 50k (miles), and was debating about doing it again or not (90k miles now). I'll do it.

The problem hasn't gotten worse, and in fact by playing with the levels (putting in a bit more fluid, sneaking it into the overflow line) it seems to be better, but there is still an issue there. Hard right turns and some inclines seem to make it worse.

Still nothing I can't work around. If it gets worse I'll just find a good transmission rebuilder and swap something that they will give me a warranty on. This car was dirt cheap when I got it and it has been pretty reliable for 50k to 100k miles now, it's not a disaster if it ends up needing some work. Heck, if it was a manual, I bet the clutch replacement would be at least $1500 out the door anyway.
 
#16 ·
Hi Erik
Over 3k for a valve body job + flush is an aweful lot of money. That is 1/2 of the value of the car itself. Hope you like the car, married to it for quite a while :) I am sure most of that was the cost of the labor itself. Can you give an idea of the price breakdown? I have seen brand new valve bodies go for 700$ and its just merely the cost of install. Plug out, plug in style. The labor is mostly draining fluid and resealing the trans cover.
 
#17 ·
Go get a quote for a normal 30k to 50k mile interval clutch replacement for a mini cooper S, and compare that to the cost of this service. (Answer: About $2800). And ironically, I think the mini cooper S automatic uses this same 6 speed transmission, but that's a tangent.

I'm not saying $3k isn't a lot of money, or that I'll be happy to pay it if my problem gets worse. But it is what it is with modern cars (and inflation), everything is expensive now. And over the life of the car, I bet one auto rebuild is still cheaper then 2 or 3 clutch replacements for a manual.

(And I bought my 2006 9-3 Aero with 45,000 miles on it for $9000, so if it turns out I need $3000 worth of transmission, I'll still be very happy with this car).
 
#19 ·
If anyone goes and dusts off those threads to figure out what was the identical Toyota fluid that their dealers generally had on the shelf, post it here. I think there was another nice response from somebody with access to some pretty heavy technical information from a rebuilding service that listed a number of compatible fluids as well.

I bought the genuine saab stuff last time, but by the time it was purchased and shipped it was a lot of $$ for a lot of wait. If the Toyota dealer has it on the shelf, even if it's just as expensive, that would be nice.

Or even better if its on the shelf at the local auto parts store by now...
 
#20 ·
Ya that was me. I did a flush involving 9l of Toyota ATF WS (Not type IV) and it works great. I've had it in there a few weeks and the shifting is fine. I will need to do a drain and refill in a few months to make sure nothing is burning but as far as I can tell, its AW-1 compliant and comes from Aisin anyway. 8 bucks canadian a quart.
 
#22 ·
Regarding the question of the $3k for the valve body service, the value of having it put back in serviceable state is worth the money especially when my wife drives it through remote areas. There would have been a time when I would have done this myself but no time. As for the $700 valve bodies, you usually get what you pay for. The valve body itself was about $1,800 (Canadian) with a warranty that I can drive down the road to claim. BTW, yes I do value this car enough to invest this much in it. As to it being worth only $6k, that's less than being shackled to 1 year of payments on a new $50k car. In the end its each to his or her own. At the very least, all of you have a benchmark to compare to. Cheers!
 
#23 ·
Ok, now its really bad

The fluid change helped, but never fixed it. It would pretty reliably do it after a hard right turn. Now (at maybe 95k miles) it suddenly got REALLY honked off and is throwing codes. It is about time to change the fluid again, but I'm not sure I want to invest in all that fluid to just drain it again to fix the thing that is actually likely broken (the valve body).

Do you have to pull the engine and transmission to replace the valve body? I already have a Mini Cooper S waiting for a Christmas clutch replacement, it looks like this may be the the season to work on japanese transmission in german cars with other labels...

I probably should try the fluid change. Even if it doesn't fix it, it is time for a flush anyway (50k since last time, and that was only 4 quarts cycled through).
 
#26 ·
Thanks!

So to consolidate information...

It looks like I have the exact symptoms of the valve body problem, and it is a REALLY common problem for this transmission. This 6 speed transmission is used all over, Volvo, GM, Ford, Mini, Audi, etc.

It seems to be most commonly referenced as the TF80-SC. There is a GM version of it, but Saab appears to use the Volvo flavor. Remanufacturing them looks like a nice option, they steel sleeve the aluminum valve bores (which is likely what caused the problem in the first place) and replace the solenoids. They seem to run from $750 to $1000 shipped after core charge refund.

It appears the valve body can be replaced without pulling the transmission, and that it is under a 3 hour job to do by the book. I still have to bust out my factory service CD and see what all is involved.... I'll have to find a computer somewhere that still has a working DVD drive. :)

I'll post updates as I progress, and maybe get an estimate from an actual transmission shop (if it is really only 3 hours labor, if they will give me a warranty, and if I can find one with good reputation).