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Old 26th September 2012
switters switters is offline
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Default How much should it cost to fix an EVAP leak?

I just bought a used 9-3 with about 45k miles on it about 3 months ago. Engine light came on, took it to the local Saab mechanic. He said there's a leak in a valve in the EVAP system, and the main system cap needs to be replaced. Apologies if the terminology isn't correct; I know nothing about cars.

For various reasons I don't fully trust this shop, so I wanted to get a sense of how much this repair should cost. He's "putting some numbers together" and will send an estimate later today.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 27th September 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switters View Post
I just bought a used 9-3 with about 45k miles on it about 3 months ago. Engine light came on, took it to the local Saab mechanic. He said there's a leak in a valve in the EVAP system, and the main system cap needs to be replaced. Apologies if the terminology isn't correct; I know nothing about cars.

For various reasons I don't fully trust this shop, so I wanted to get a sense of how much this repair should cost. He's "putting some numbers together" and will send an estimate later today.

Thanks.
Check your gas cap, then pull the battery negative cable to reset the diagnostic system. Mine did the same thing when my gas cap was acting up. The car still runs fine right? Just a cel?
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  #3  
Old 27th September 2012
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It really is going to depend on how much time it takes to locate the leak and replace/seal it. The EVAP system uses the throttle body to create a small vacuum back in the gas tank. The vacuum draws gas vapors from the tank into the engine to be burned. A vacuum sensor on top of the tank checks for the presence of a vacuum. If there's a leak anywhere in the system, a CEL is generated.

As stated earlier, the leak can be a loose or faulty gas cap, but it can also be a faulty vacuum sensor, leaking gasket on top of the tank, leaking gas fill pipe, a leak anywhere from the tank to the charcoal canister in the wheel well, to the EVAP purge valve under the hood, to the hose to the throttle body. The mechanic will use a smoke generator to inject smoke into the system through a modified gas cap and then look for smoke escaping.

So, best case scenario is the gas cap. Worst case is a leaking gasket on top of the tank - where the tank would have to be drained and dropped... Ron
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Old 27th September 2012
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You have provided no details on your car. If it's a V6 the purge valve is a common breaking point. Replacement is <$50 and only takes 10-15 minutes to replace.
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Old 27th September 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '97 Saab SE Turbo View Post
The mechanic will use a smoke generator to inject smoke into the system through a modified gas cap and then look for smoke escaping.

So, best case scenario is the gas cap. Worst case is a leaking gasket on top of the tank - where the tank would have to be drained and dropped... Ron
That's exactly what they did (use a smoke generator), and they think there's a leaking gasket. They want to drain and drop the tank to see if the valve (their language; they didn't say gasket, but then again this guy's english isn't so hot) can be fixed, or if it needs to be replaced.

So they're charging me labor to drop the tank and if they can fix it while they have it dropped there won't be an additional charge. If they have to order the part, they're going to charge me to drop the tank again (not sure why they can't leave it dropped?) and then obviously for the part. I asked him how much the part would cost and he didn't know.
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Old 27th September 2012
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I've had the check engine light on for a few months now. My original gas cap was barely hanging on so I ordered a replacement online (non-OEM). It fits okay, but I can tell the seal is not set tight. For instance, after a full tank, when I loosen the cap, I don't get that usual 'whoosh' when the seal is loosened. Ordered another OEM cap, but still waiting for the part. 4 weeks now. Will take my car in to get checked out during the next visit in about 3 weeks. Hopefully, it's just the cap.

Anyone else have trouble finding OEM replacement caps? SAABParts USA is on back order.
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Old 27th September 2012
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I'm starting to wonder if I made a mistake.

I've put about 40 miles on this thing since I bought it used, and I'm looking at a $400-$600 repair IF the mechanic can find the part.

I know something like this can happen with any car, but the parts issue is unique.
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Old 27th September 2012
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Okay, heard back from the mechanic.

They say the problem is with the shut-off valve, which needs to be replaced.

However, they can't find one. It's on backorder. (Familiar story, right?)

Any ideas where I can get one of these?

They want to charge $300 total to drop the tank, replace the valve and re-program.
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Old 27th September 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switters View Post
Okay, heard back from the mechanic.

They say the problem is with the shut-off valve, which needs to be replaced.

However, they can't find one. It's on backorder. (Familiar story, right?)

Any ideas where I can get one of these?

They want to charge $300 total to drop the tank, replace the valve and re-program.
Get a second opinion, in opening first post u said u don't fully trust the shop ur using. Who knows, it could be the gas cap and they're bagging you for something else cause u don't know that much about it. Just to be on the safe side.
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Old 27th September 2012
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That's one of my problems. There's only one shop in my area that works on Saabs. I've got to drive 25+ miles to the next one. Not super far, but not that close for a second opinion (which I'd probably have to pay them to give me, which kinda defeats the purpose of saving money). Grr.
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Old 27th September 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switters View Post
That's one of my problems. There's only one shop in my area that works on Saabs. I've got to drive 25+ miles to the next one. Not super far, but not that close for a second opinion (which I'd probably have to pay them to give me, which kinda defeats the purpose of saving money). Grr.
I'd still focus on the gas cap, and resetting the check engine light. Then see if it pops on again, this is a free test aside from the new gas cap.
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Old 28th September 2012
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Changing shut-off valve #25932571, a VERY common GM part, can be done by loosening the right tank strap, and pulling the tank down just slightly.
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Old 28th September 2012
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^^^^ this. Find a shop in cali where they speak english lol. sorry it sucks to hear of people being ripped off etc
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Old 28th September 2012
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Originally Posted by dzlsabe View Post
Changing shut-off valve #25932571, a VERY common GM part, can be done by loosening the right tank strap, and pulling the tank down just slightly.
So this part will work for a 2007 9-3? Where can I get it? And why would the shop not be able to find it?

Sounds like you're saying it's an easy repair, and shouldn't cost $300. What do they mean when they say they have to "re-program" it?
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Old 28th September 2012
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Need to do a little research. If that's the correct part# then you can get on Amazon for like $12 bucks. 48 five star reviews.

ACDelco 214-2149 Professional Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid : Amazon.com : Automotive ACDelco 214-2149 Professional Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 28th September 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim808 View Post
Need to do a little research. If that's the correct part# then you can get on Amazon for like $12 bucks. 48 five star reviews.

ACDelco 214-2149 Professional Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid : Amazon.com : Automotive
Thank you. Unfortunately, my research would be useless since I would have no idea that a shut-off valve is also called a Professional Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid. I tried searching for shut-off valve on the Saab parts website, but obviously came up short because I wasn't looking for the right part.
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Old 28th September 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switters View Post
What do they mean when they say they have to "re-program" it?
probably just disconnecting the battery for a while
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Old 28th September 2012
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If youve got a P0442 small evap leak code, this can be a MFer. First ya gotta try the gas cap...its $10. Then ya put the "smoker" on it. Ya gotta activate that shut-off valve 25932571/AC 214-2179 (and make sure it activates) that we are talking about with Tech2. Otherwise it will smoke from the right-rear of the tank and COULD be misdiagnosed as being bad. If there is smoke from the center-front of the tank, there is a plastic pipe that looks like that wire-loom corrugated covering stuff that either disintegrates or could possibly be mouse-eaten? And certainly if a fuel pump had been changed and the oring not set right or not tightened completely, thats a possibility also, but Id think youd smell gas if that were the case. Fortunately the fuel tank is pretty easy to take down assuming its less than 1/4 filled.
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  #19  
Old 6th October 2012
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$300 isnt completely unreasonable with the labor. Had/have the same problem--had many "false positives". Started with the gas cap, bought/replaced several valves, but it was that valve from the amazon posting that, for the most part fixed the issue (mine would surge/try to die/chug with every fill up for about 2 miles).

My mechanic had to drop the tank to replace that valve.
good thing is that if they dont speak English v. well, theyre likely from a culture where prices are negotiable--try it!

Just tell em you'll run the tank to nearly empty to make it easier on them.
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