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  #1  
Old 13th June 2012
loveb loveb is offline
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Default another stupid question sorry

Can I adjust the timing on a 2.3 n/a ng900? like advance or retard it?

also what spark plugs should I replace the ones on now with?
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  #2  
Old 14th June 2012
ZaphodB ZaphodB is offline
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Not as far as I am aware the timeing is fixed
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  #3  
Old 14th June 2012
jonathans jonathans is offline
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in my experience the answer is "yes, and it's a stupid idea."

if it's not idling smoothly you could always clean out or replace the distributor, and then look elsewhere for other problems.

if this is a search for power, you're better off 1) learning some other aspect of engine maintenance like replacing piston rings 2) doing a complete engine/turbo swap to a 2.0 block of the same model/year or 3) doing this.

i think the recommended brand is still NGK, but i've never bothered to check because both mine had them replaced at 100k right before i bought them, and that should last until they're sold for parts.
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  #4  
Old 14th June 2012
loveb loveb is offline
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Its just cause im getting a bit of knock at 1200-2000 rpm when the engine is warm. On japanese cars we just adjust the timing till it clears. But from what i read the ng has an auto adjusting system..
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  #5  
Old 14th June 2012
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earthworm earthworm is offline
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The final step in ignition timing is the spark plug gap, assure that this is correct...Also, as we have, probably 150K miles on this engine, wear and tear will affect the timing..which is fixed and computer controlled...There is no knock sensor that I know of...
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  #6  
Old 14th June 2012
loveb loveb is offline
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Yes i thought of that actually as im plannkng onchanging the spark plugs as well. What should i use on a 2.3l n/a? And what should the gap be??

Another quick question, what thread type does the 2.3l have? M20 or unf?? Im gonna be buying hks oil filters which are universal and only have either m20 or unf. Thanks!!
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  #7  
Old 15th June 2012
EdT EdT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loveb View Post
Its just cause im getting a bit of knock at 1200-2000 rpm when the engine is warm. On japanese cars we just adjust the timing till it clears. But from what i read the ng has an auto adjusting system..
There's a knock sensor. You hear some pinging and then it ought to be reduced by the computer pulling back the timing. The pinging is more obvious if you're running 87 octane and have your passenger window rolled down.

[Okay, you are in Australia where the octane is measured differently. 87 octance here is probably something like 95, or whatever the basic grade is, there.]

Now, if the knock sensor isn't working and the pinging is really bad and goes on for a long time, then there's something to look at. You want the knock sensor to be working correctly.

Remember, this is a 10.5:1 compression motor (at least Saab says so), and the timing is being constantly adjusted for efficiency while avoiding engine damage. Trying to change the timing the old twist-the-distributor way is not the approach to take.
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  #8  
Old 15th June 2012
loveb loveb is offline
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What should i be looking at if that is the case? Yes, more prpnounced when the window is open. Could it possible be due to bad plugs? Just realized dont think the missss has had them changed at all. Perhaps in 3 yrs now. Lol gonna lool at spark pluhs later. What to use on an b234? I think the local store has run out of bcp6ev so they have bcp6eix11 i think it was?
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  #9  
Old 16th June 2012
EdT EdT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loveb View Post
What should i be looking at if that is the case? Yes, more prpnounced when the window is open. Could it possible be due to bad plugs? Just realized dont think the missss has had them changed at all. Perhaps in 3 yrs now. Lol gonna lool at spark pluhs later. What to use on an b234? I think the local store has run out of bcp6ev so they have bcp6eix11 i think it was?
Not sure about plugs at the moment. If you have an owner's manual, that should help. You want to be careful about heat ranges; a hotter-running plug won't help your pinging. You should talk to a competent person at a good parts store if you are perplexed; there is no point in guessing. (Note that many of the plug recommendations here are for turbos running T5/T7 systems, and because of the way their Trionic works, their plug requirements are very specific. I don't think that's the case for the Motronic (non-turbo) 2.3.

I guess since you're in Australia you sit on what would be the passenger side for me, and hear the pinging really well.

First of all, what octane gasoline are you using?

Second of all, does it ping heavily for a moment (up to a second I guess) and then diminish, or just carry on? The former shows that the knock sensor is working; the latter would be bad.

Do you have the Check Engine light on? The computer will set a code if it knows the knock sensor is bad. (Lack of a light does not mean the sensor is good, which can be worse if it's bad but the ECU is trusting it.)

Is the car mainly driven on the highway, or puttered about locally? If the latter, you may have carbon buildup which doesn't help.
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  #10  
Old 17th June 2012
loveb loveb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdT View Post
Not sure about plugs at the moment. If you have an owner's manual, that should help. You want to be careful about heat ranges; a hotter-running plug won't help your pinging. You should talk to a competent person at a good parts store if you are perplexed; there is no point in guessing. (Note that many of the plug recommendations here are for turbos running T5/T7 systems, and because of the way their Trionic works, their plug requirements are very specific. I don't think that's the case for the Motronic (non-turbo) 2.3.

I guess since you're in Australia you sit on what would be the passenger side for me, and hear the pinging really well.

First of all, what octane gasoline are you using?

Second of all, does it ping heavily for a moment (up to a second I guess) and then diminish, or just carry on? The former shows that the knock sensor is working; the latter would be bad.

Do you have the Check Engine light on? The computer will set a code if it knows the knock sensor is bad. (Lack of a light does not mean the sensor is good, which can be worse if it's bad but the ECU is trusting it.)

Is the car mainly driven on the highway, or puttered about locally? If the latter, you may have carbon buildup which doesn't help.
running it with V power. 98 octane (dunno if thats actual)

It'll stay pinging between 1500-2000 rpm. Goes away if any higher or lower. however if i stay in that range it'll stay pinging. It isnt so bad during winter which is now. More pronounced in summer. Although I asked the missus and I dont think shes changed or had the spark plugs gapped in atleast 3 years now lol. I bought the spark plug tool which was too big so I'll have to get a different sized one so i can pull the plugs out. Pretty sure I'll have to change them anyway.

No Cel, had one but its cleared now turned out to be a broken hose.

Car is used for city driving. 2kms at most so might have carbon buildup in it. But will be using it for highway drives more now.
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