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  #1  
Old 1st June 2012
ChicagoGriffin ChicagoGriffin is offline
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Default MapTun Silicone Hose Kits

I recently purchased both MapTun silicone hose kits (turbo and coolant) for my 2007 9-5 Aero but I am a noob and want to make sure I have everything down before I install them. Has anyone installed these? Is there anything I should look out for? I suppose I need to drain the coolant and replace it afterwards; is there a good technique for doing this? Do I need to burp the system somehow to ensure no air is in the lines? Have never done much engine work in the past, only simple ops like changing oil and air filters.

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks - Griffin UP!
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  #2  
Old 2nd June 2012
srmoose srmoose is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoGriffin View Post
I recently purchased both MapTun silicone hose kits (turbo and coolant) for my 2007 9-5 Aero but I am a noob and want to make sure I have everything down before I install them. Has anyone installed these? Is there anything I should look out for? I suppose I need to drain the coolant and replace it afterwards; is there a good technique for doing this? Do I need to burp the system somehow to ensure no air is in the lines? Have never done much engine work in the past, only simple ops like changing oil and air filters.

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks - Griffin UP!
Fairly straight forward, being new (And welcome to the site) I would do 1 hose at a time.
I would pressure wash the engine bay.
You are going to need to remove the plastic shield on the bottom side of engine bay.
On the back side of the radiator about an inch or 2 from the bottom, on the drivers side (LHD) there is the radiator drain plug (****). Its plastic, you need to twist it and the coolant should start draining.
Filling is straight forward, fill the system, run the car a little bit recheck level. if low repeat.
From WIS
Coolant, 4-cyl.
WARNING
Be careful if the car is warm. The coolant is hot and there is a risk of burns from the intake manifold.
1 Open the cap on the expansion tank and release the pressure.
2 Raise the car.
3 Remove the lower front cover.
4 Open the drain **** on the radiator and drain off the coolant.
5 Close the ****.
6 Lower the car to the floor.
7 Fill up with coolant. Do not forget to close the drain **** on the radiator first. For the correct mixture, see . Close the cap.
8 Start the engine and run until warm with the heater control at maximum.
9 Check the coolant level. Top up as necessary.
10 Fit the lower front cover.

Hope that helps some, doing 1 hose at a time lessens the chance of running a hose to the wrong location.
Just noticed my post was censored. the **** is a real word but it is being censored because of its slang.
see reason for editing. LOL sorry
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Last edited by srmoose; 2nd June 2012 at 10:08 AM. Reason: The drain is called a **** which is slang for penis
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  #3  
Old 2nd June 2012
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Rarelibra Rarelibra is offline
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Drain all of the coolant out. Then work on one hose at a time, and start from the back (firewall) to the front. The reservoir is tricky to run underneath, but not difficult. The water pump one is the hardest - you should remove the cobra for more room.

Biggest thing - buy some clamps before you do this. Some of my stock clamps worked, some would not open far enough. And bring a little bit of water or something to lube up the hose so it will slide on the goosenecks better.

Soon you'll be looking like this:



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  #4  
Old 4th June 2012
ChicagoGriffin ChicagoGriffin is offline
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Thanks to both of you! I was definitely planning on replacing one hose at a time, and have already purchased some new hose clamps.

Thanks for the picture too - it will give me a better idea of what the hell I'm doing, and will also help motivate me to get off of my butt and into the garage!
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Old 4th June 2012
8pack 8pack is offline
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I am not 100% sure what got you sensored, but this is my best guess and correct word is not ****, but PETCOCK....
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Old 4th June 2012
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Rarelibra Rarelibra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pack View Post
I am not 100% sure what got you sensored, but this is my best guess and correct word is not ****, but PETCOCK....
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  #7  
Old 28th June 2012
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Rarelibra Rarelibra is offline
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ChicagoGriffin - so here's an update for you (and anyone else considering using the Maptun hoses).

The hose kits are good for the intercooler and upper/lower coolant hoses. However, there are two hoses that now (after over a year of use) are showing signs of not being the best choice for their placement - the "U" shape hose on the pump and the hose that leads from expansion tank underneath the fuse box and connects near the engine block to the metal coolant line. Both of these - the expansion tank hose more than any - have seepage occur (the expansion hose on a more regular basis, especially under harder driving conditions). It's only enough to drain about 1" down in the expansion tank over a month of daily driving, but enough over time to where I will be swapping the expansion hose back to a new black rubber one (and I will swap out the "U" in the future if/when I have to replace the pump).

So if you do go with the Maptun hoses, I suggest only the ones for the intercooler and the upper/lower coolant hoses (as well as the hose that connects from the block to the firewall).

Just my .02
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Old 29th June 2012
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spikeieos spikeieos is offline
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Make sure you use the right clamps, silicone hoses use special clamps, don't re-use the factory ones, maybe that is why you are getting leakage.
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  #9  
Old 29th June 2012
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nope - this one has the special clamps - it actually has two and is still seeping.
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  #10  
Old 3rd April 2017
Juswill1 Juswill1 is offline
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So gang, just purchased a very low mile 9-5 linear wagon 2003 with only 80k. I also have a 2010 9-3 aero. I have found numerous articles on specific weaknesses and am hoping to address them in order of perceived importance. Have just ordered the following based on said articles recommendations.

Item Detail:

SKU: 101K10053 - Qty Ordered: 1 - Price (ea): $69.21
Item: Crankcase Vent Update Kit (PCV) (Aftermarket) (w/ Oil Trap Hoses)
Status: In Stock
SKU: OC479 - Qty Ordered: 1 - Price (ea): $6.74
Item: Engine Oil Filter (Oversized)
Status: Ships in 1-2 days
SKU: 90566947A - Qty Ordered: 1 - Price (ea): $17.49
Item: Heater Bypass Valve
Status: In Stock
SKU: 0892930 - Qty Ordered: 1 - Price (ea): $11.99
Item: Valve Cover Gasket
Status: In Stock

Order Totals:

Item Subtotal: $105.43
Discount: $(3.75)
Shipping Total: $0.00 Weight (4.35 lbs)
==========================
Grand Total: $101.68

I have also replaced the cv axles, put on new Saab badges (the real ones), and ordered a SID rebuild kit. I am truly thrilled with the level and detail of maintenance done on the car, and as it had all dealer performed maintenance, preventive and scheduled done on time, including dealer oil changes was taken back that the Crankcase Ventilation issue was not addressed. It is a Polar White Wagon with an immaculate sand beige leather interior. Not the Aero seats but they are very comfortable and beautifully maintained. Only sign of leather wear is on the elbow rest on the console. I can get weird OCD when it comes to such matters so am contemplating getting the correct leather dye just to fix that. Think I may have lucked out and got an upgraded version of their sound system as I do have ten nicely working speakers and a very good sound quality. But despite my misspent garage band youth, I am not by any means into loud headbanging or thumping, so maybe lowered expectations make me feel the sound is quite nice comparatively speaking.
I am also contemplating the silicone hose replacement sets, do you all feel they are a nice worthwhile upgrade? Am considering upgrade to in dash nav and rear camera system and have leaped into all the advice sections on this topic but am actually using and old cassette aux. outline feature that seemingly even taps into my onstar system when connected to my android phone. . .which doesn't make sense but I swear all my phone calls come in crystal clear and call recipients claim the sound quality is extraordinary. Sorta a retro Bluetooth! I could pull off one of those rear view mirror camera systems and maybe have just about everything a fellow needs not to feel lost in the old fart car era.

Big picture I think I want to turbo upgrade and tune with the bigger Turbo off a wrecked late model 9-5 Aero that I can get for a song. Prevailing thoughts on if cannibalizing said 9-5 of Turbo and wheels and brake setup would enhance my quality of pleasure enough to justify the expenditure, the work I don't mind in the least, actually kind of enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done.

All opines are appreciated, may your experience be my teacher!

Oh in my detailing madness, I scrubbed up the motor and all underhood region, which in my zealousness I may have gotten something a little extra wet. Perhaps it was not under the hood but in the car, as I scrubbed the carpets and armor-alled the crap out of the thing. I know it isn't everyone's flavor but I love the new car smell. Anyone was hugely disappointed when my airbag light and warning light came on, after the cleaning frenzy. Off course I could not turn it off with my OBD2 reader ( I have the plugin with the android app). Found a few articles on here with "try this" anecdotal suggestions none seemed to work, but after the sun came out and the car dryed itself up, voila! no more Airbag light! Thank Gawd! I would really kick myself on that one till I resolved the issue!

Last edited by Juswill1; 3rd April 2017 at 08:15 PM.
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  #11  
Old 3rd April 2017
qwikredline qwikredline is offline
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I would always fill the radiator from the top hose and the cylinder head from the top hose first. Don't try to fill the system from the reservoir that wont work well and leads to air pockets.

sub'd for folks experience with cooling system silicone hoses
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  #12  
Old 4th April 2017
EdT EdT is offline
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The shocks, rear springs, front subframe bushings, and various rear control-arm bushings may need replacement. There are lots of threads for that. If you are getting clunking accelerating or coasting, or if the tires are wearing funny, then you should do that before any power upgrades. I knew my wagon's shocks and struts needed attention because it would wallow and lurch over speed bumps.

I guess also drive your car for a while and learn its peculiarities, ask here about them, and get them fixed.

If you have an Aero available for parts, the front caliper brackets, and rear calipers and brackets, are the carryovers for the bigger Aero brakes. If the rotors are in good shape, you could use those too.
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