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  #1  
Old 9th October 2011
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Default Crankshaft Pulley

I need to replayce the crankshaft pulley. This doesnt look like a fun job. I have found a write up on it. Is this easier than it looks?

What all should I replace while Im in there? Should I work on the oil pump, seals etc...?

Advice?

Also I have found two different pulleys. both say they fit my car. both the same brand but $30 difference. Did the Pulleys change mid year? I have an 87 900 turbo 16v.
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Old 9th October 2011
B202NUT B202NUT is offline
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I have never did that job but I think for all practical purposes the oil pump seal and armeture should be changed since your there. Only other advice I would add is since the space is so tight, you might wanna get a mirror small enough that you can tape it to the firewall so you can actually see what's going on, and lots of light.

I would think getting the crank bolt loose is your biggest chore. Good time for the proper seal seating tool.

Good luck..
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Old 9th October 2011
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Originally Posted by B202NUT View Post
I have never did that job but I think for all practical purposes the oil pump seal and armeture should be changed since your there. Only other advice I would add is since the space is so tight, you might wanna get a mirror small enough that you can tape it to the firewall so you can actually see what's going on, and lots of light.

I would think getting the crank bolt loose is your biggest chore. Good time for the proper seal seating tool.

Good luck..
Guide on fixmysaab is really good. Yes front crank seal and oil O ring are must do's while there.
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Old 9th October 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevster View Post
I need to replayce the crankshaft pulley. This doesnt look like a fun job. I have found a write up on it. Is this easier than it looks?

What all should I replace while Im in there? Should I work on the oil pump, seals etc...?

Advice?

Also I have found two different pulleys. both say they fit my car. both the same brand but $30 difference. Did the Pulleys change mid year? I have an 87 900 turbo 16v.
I did it outside in the middle of winter. If you are replacing the thing and the O-rings and such maybe it is a PITA. As it was, I found it relatively easy. Holding the engine in place long enough to break the torque on the screw is a pain in the *** though. And you need a wrench of correct size to get in there between the firewall. Luckily my socket and breaker bar were just just adequate, when inserted "just right" in a particular way. If it won't go right away, try a different way.

The old pulley I had I could hold the centre in my hand and spin the pulley ring part and it would keep spinning Even as everything was installed, I could grab the alternator belt and actually rotate everything easily
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Old 10th October 2011
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I read you bump start the car to help get the bolt loose. But bother stated they had manual transmission. how do I do this with an automatic?
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Old 10th October 2011
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also... does anyone have a diagram of the engine? I have looked and yet to find one. I know the alternator on the car I think the water pump is under that and the crank pulley is the one closes to the bottom.

Forgive me guys. I dont know much about this car. Ask me about Porsches and I can tell you. Im kinda lost on where somethings are on this car.
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Old 10th October 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevster View Post
also... does anyone have a diagram of the engine? I have looked and yet to find one. I know the alternator on the car I think the water pump is under that and the crank pulley is the one closes to the bottom.

Forgive me guys. I dont know much about this car. Ask me about Porsches and I can tell you. Im kinda lost on where somethings are on this car.
The crank still spins on an automatic when it's in park, The crank always spins when engine is running, just the gearbox doesn't. just turn the key for a brief second or make a press button starter you can piggy back onto the starter motor, I haven't done this so don't know.

The crank pulley is on the firewall side nearest the bottom - you are right, A/C then waterpump then crank down the very bottom. The fixmysaab walk through shows pictures of removing the A/C you don't disconnect the A/C hoses (so you don't lose your refrigerant) and then you remove the A/C pulley on the crank pulley (couple of bolts) then you use a breaker bar and a low profile socket and bump the starter to loosen. All best accessed from above (unless you have a hydraulic lift).

PS did you end up cleaning out your IC, hows your car running now days?
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Old 10th October 2011
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Disconnect your Coil ...

I have always managed to achieve the same result with a cheater bar and locking the flex plate or flywheel .. I know its (bump starter) a tried and proven method .. , but I prefer not .
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  #9  
Old 10th October 2011
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You can loosen the bolt by resting the breaker bar against the side of the engine bay and bumping the starter (engine rotates clockwise when looking forward). Make sure you disable the fuel pump and ignition system so that you don't accidentally start the engine. Also, only run the starter very briefly or you can run the nut back too far and wedge the socket and breaker bar against the firewall.

The crank pulley is below the water pump. If you have air conditioning, there is another pulley bolted onto the crank pulley which will have to be removed to allow access to the bolt (attached with three 10mm bolts IIRC).

I've done it in my driveway, but I didn't change the crank seal or the oil pump o-ring. It is generally a good idea to do it, but not necessary. If you do remove the oil pump cover and pump, make sure you pack the pump with Vaseline or prime the pump through the oil filter opening. Otherwise you will not get oil pressure on startup.

Dustin
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Old 10th October 2011
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Its been running great since the weather here in Texas has cooled down. I havent cleaned out the IC yet.

I have another stupid question. Where is the starter .. lol
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Old 10th October 2011
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Agree with you Aussie, I'll be using a breaker bar. I prefer the control. Good point about the coil, forgot to mention that.

Starter is under intake manifold. You did say you have an 87 engine in an 81 shell right?
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Old 10th October 2011
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Seriously guys. It's no big deal to just rest the bar against the air intake and bump the starter. The bolt only takes a little "kick". You'd have to be moron to start the engine and wedge the bolt against the firewall. If you pull the ignition fuse, nothing can happen.

Make your life easier.
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Old 10th October 2011
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chill out amigo! They're just saying what might happen if you aren't careful. No need for the name calling.
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Originally Posted by nuclear944 View Post
Seriously guys. It's no big deal to just rest the bar against the air intake and bump the starter. The bolt only takes a little "kick". You'd have to be moron to start the engine and wedge the bolt against the firewall. If you pull the ignition fuse, nothing can happen.

Make your life easier.
Everyone was just making comments on possible issues, no one said oooooh don't bump the starter or you will jam it against the firewall. I made the comment that I'd rather use a breaker bar, If I can undo 300nm driveshaft nuts with a breaker bar I can undo 160nm crank pulley. If you have a breaker bar and an extension (to help protect your knuckles probably more than the leverage) why bother with the starter.

I don't think it would take a moron, we are mostly amateurs here, and amateurs, as well as pros make mistakes.
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Old 10th October 2011
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I seem to recall you have to tighten the nut as well .. (will check Bentley)

locking the flywheel/flexplate will achieve that as well ...each to there preferred .

Correction ... its a bolt .. the Nuts are us guys trying to help prevent someone making simple ( often the easiest missed ) mistakes .

Last edited by AUSSIE900; 10th October 2011 at 04:56 AM. Reason: bolt...its a Bolt .. I'm the Nut .
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Old 10th October 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevster View Post
I need to replayce the crankshaft pulley. This doesnt look like a fun job. I have found a write up on it. Is this easier than it looks?

What all should I replace while Im in there? Should I work on the oil pump, seals etc...?

Advice?

Also I have found two different pulleys. both say they fit my car. both the same brand but $30 difference. Did the Pulleys change mid year? I have an 87 900 turbo 16v.
Only current brand is Dorman- 16V and 8V were both available that year. There IS a physical difference in the fit of the two. 594-057 is the correct P/N.
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  #17  
Old 10th October 2011
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what about scan tech, eeuro sells those. $100 each. I hope they last cos I forked out.
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  #18  
Old 10th October 2011
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Hey Kevster, how are you sure you need to do this job? I recall when I was very new to the C900 and thought I needed to do a crank pulley when in reality my belts were loose....

Just being sure your not putting the carriage before the horse...
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  #19  
Old 10th October 2011
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The squealing stop and when I was driving it sounded like metal grinding. The car would was sluggish then woudl be fine. I thought it was the timing on the car. I opened it up and I couid see a silver dust cloud in the pulley area. I read that this was the second phase of the crankshaft pulley going out.
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Old 10th October 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S900t8v View Post
Everyone was just making comments on possible issues, no one said oooooh don't bump the starter or you will jam it against the firewall. I made the comment that I'd rather use a breaker bar, If I can undo 300nm driveshaft nuts with a breaker bar I can undo 160nm crank pulley. If you have a breaker bar and an extension (to help protect your knuckles probably more than the leverage) why bother with the starter.

I don't think it would take a moron, we are mostly amateurs here, and amateurs, as well as pros make mistakes.
OK I'll rephrase that: "It's very difficult to screw something up when cracking the bolt with the starter."
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