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  #1  
Old 29th September 2011
autoaddict autoaddict is offline
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Default Clutch bleeding procedure

So I'm looking at buying a 92 9000t with a new clutch master cyl. recently installed. The owner says he spent very little time trying to bleed the clutch system, but he could not get any pressure at the pedal. (I'm a licensed mechanic and so is he) Does this system require back bleeding or pressure bleeding or just more time conventionally bleeding. Thanks. (It was a new unit and i don't know if he bench bled the master first)
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Old 29th September 2011
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chengny chengny is offline
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Purging the air out of the clutch hydraulic system is frequently a real pain. Mostly this is due to the fact that the amount of hydraulic fluid displaced by the master cylinder per stoke is tiny (compared to the master cylinder in the brake system). Maybe the location of the tap point and slope of the tubing leading down to the slave play a part as well _ I never thought too much about it.

Anyway, whatever the reason, it's not like bleeding your Brakes.

Generally, the conventional method (i.e. using the master to displace the entrained air) does not work for most people. If it does work, it requires a lot pedal pumps. And that is if the master is tight like new.

Purge from the bottom up. By that I mean find a way to supply pressurized brake fluid backwards through the slave bleeder. This will push the air and old fluid out of the slave, up the actuating line, through the master and then finally it will bubble up and escape in the reservoir.

The pressure need not be great - the master is designed to allow back flow when the piston is not being stroked in. Just get a length of tubing that fits snugly over the slave bleeder. The other end goes on your pumping device. That could be anything - a manual/thumb powered oil can, a grease gun, or a small positive displacement pump. Probably a turkey baster would work if you could find a tight one.

There is not much fluid to displace only the recesses in the slave cylinder and the volume of the tubing. By the time the air gets into the master it really has nowhere to go but bubble up and out.

That's all I can offer - I haven't bled a clutch in years. But do a search; I'll bet you'll find some much better suggestions.
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Old 29th September 2011
autoaddict autoaddict is offline
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Thanks for the prompt response! I was leaning towards the back bleeding method-common to Volvo liquid actuated clutches. I'm gearing up a windshield washer fluid pump as we speak to take on the task. Thanks again...I love this site! Great people offering solutions rather than more questions. Thanks again, Cheers!
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Old 29th September 2011
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benji9k benji9k is offline
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When I replaced the master cylinder I bled it the manual way, one guy on the pedal, one guy on the valve. It's not the easiest, but it got the bleeding done in 15-20 min.
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