throttle body microswitch

[1quickbeater]

What's the name/purpose of the micro switch with three electrical tabs/connectors below the throttle body. Its only activated at idle when the butterfly valve is completely closed

88 9000 turbo

[Superaero]

It will have a maximum switch also to cut out the O2 sensor fuel mapping when the throttle is wide open. Called a minimax switch it clicks once just off idle to switch off the idle mapping and then should click again at about 75% throttle to ensure the fuelling goes to full enrichment. In between the ECU continuously accepts readings from the O2 sensor to ensure emissions are within spec. At idle it leans out and at full throttle the fue/air ratio is enriched

[1quickbeater]

So would that explain why when I just barely more than touch the gas peddle it bogs out?

If I barely touch the peddle I can get it to max rpm but its like a slow Dyno run type of acceleration. I dont think I could drive it like that.

[Superaero]

Unlikely to be the minimax switch.

Older 9000 are very sensitive to air leaks.

On an 88 I would first check ALL vacuum lines, the dipstick cap (properly fitted?) the dipstick tube (for cracks) and thoroughly clean the throttle plate with spray cleaner suitable for fuel injected systems. The 2.0 liter engine suffers from a dirty throttle plate and benefits from regular cleaning. Pull off the rubber bellows, hold a rag below the throttle body to soak up the drips and have at 'er. Open the throttle plate with your third hand (!!) and spray the back of the throttle plate also. When the throttle is open spray some cleaner down inside the AIC valve hose at the side of the throttle housing to allow some cleaning of the AIC circuit. Use the rag to wipe off the crud that sits at the bottom of the throttle housing and partially blocks the small gap between the bottom edge of the "closed" throttle plate and the housing which is part of the idle air supply. The AIC valve supplies the rest of the idle air to keep idle speed constant.

If still no better then replace the small grey and white one way valve in the PCV small diameter vacuum line, if that doesn't help replace the hooter valve (boost pressure bypass, black plastic "can" near the battery with hoses from the intake after the turbo compressor outlet and back to the intake upstream of the turbo. Very occasionally that rubber grommet in the cam cover where the PCV hoses attach to that weird plastic fitting will petrify and start leaking air into the crankcase which then gets into the intake and spoils the mixture.

Before you do all this make sure the plugs are correct spec and properly gapped, that the distributor is clean (inside, no bad burning or tracking on the rotor arm or the inside of the cap) and that the ignition timing is correct (it is hard for me to remember those days now!).

[spadar]

hi.hmm interesting. also see my thread "limp mode" posted today. this may be another answer to your question. as stated saab's are very susceptible to air and vacuum leaks anywhere in the system. love that car.cheers

[1quickbeater]

Forgot about the oil cap im sure it's leaking. But just replaced all lines with silicone so no leaks there. I didn't remove the throttle body but did clean the throttle plate decently about 300the miles ago so couldn't be that.

Thanks for the tips on where to look though

[1quickbeater]

So everything is back in order and running tip top but my tapping lifters. But still no throttle. The only thing different now then when I parked it is that sensor. I'm having a very hard time locating a good one. Any websites would be great.

Thabks