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  #1  
Old 14-08-11
james-aero james-aero is offline
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Default turbo seized

Iv just bought a 1997 9000 2.0 lpt and athough every thing seemed fine with it i thought it felt a bit under-powered so i started to do some checks with the vac hoses, dump valve and so on.
I took the air intake hose off to find a bit gunky oil just befor the turbo and the compressor wheel wont budge at all, also the actuator arm has came off its pin.
Should the compressor wheel turn freely? or is my turbo seized?
If i reconnect the actuator will this cure this problem or make it worse?
I always thought if a turbo was not working the car wouldnt run.
Thanks for any advice
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  #2  
Old 14-08-11
Superaero Superaero is offline
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Compressor wheel should turn easily. If the wastegate actuator was disconnected then the turbo may have been run overspeed and broken something. For the compressor (and turbine for that matter, they are "one " component as each is fixed to one end of the same shaft which should spin freely) to seize something must have broken to jam the shaft or one of the wheels.

Reconnecting the shaft will not free up the turbo. With the compressor stationary and the turbo stationary the engine should run but will not run well or produce any real power.
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  #3  
Old 14-08-11
james-aero james-aero is offline
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Il take the turbo off tomorrow and strip it to see if i can identify the failure, hopefully its fixable.
If its seized due to overheating from oil starvation is it possible to rebuild or is that the turbo finished?
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  #4  
Old 14-08-11
Superaero Superaero is offline
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I would suggest you need a rebuilt unit. However, if the bearing cartridge has failed you can "rebuild" a turbo unit by replacing the cartridge. The lpt is a Garrett unit, readily available as a rebuilt.
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Old 15-08-11
chengny chengny is offline
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Maybe you'll get lucky and find that the turbo is just jammed.

The tolerances between the rotating assembly and housing are quite close and even a tiny piece of debris will lock it up.

It is just the exhaust gas flow that drives the wheel. It is hard to stop once it is up to speed - but very easy to keep it from starting to roll.

Could the "bit" of gunk in the throat be the results of the previous owner trying to free it up with some "WD-40"?

Determine the normal direction of rotation and try to roll it backwards. Use some heat and whack it with a ball pein hammer.

Sounds kind of Neandertal I know, but what have you got to lose?

You could even try to free it up in place.
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Old 15-08-11
james-aero james-aero is offline
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Well i took the turbo off the car today and completly stripped it down, i cant see any damage at all just full of old dirty dried up oil.
The parts are all soaking now to give them a good clean then il give it all a good inspection.
What should i be looking out for, any thing in particular?
Hopefully it just a case of buying a rebuild kit.
Thanks for the help
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  #7  
Old 15-08-11
90000006 90000006 is offline
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did you mark the turbine and compressor wheel positions on the axle? If you do not put them together in exactly the same way you loose the balancing and the turbo will selfdestruct (spinning at 150 000 rpm).

Never heard of old oil stopping a turbo from turning by the way If the oil is that sticky I would lift the camshaft cover and drop the sump, checking for sludge. If the internals of the engine are coated in black stuff, prepare for a rebuild...
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  #8  
Old 15-08-11
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Diamond Dave Diamond Dave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james-aero View Post
What should i be looking out for, any thing in particular?
Hopefully it just a case of buying a rebuild kit.
There's more to the story than "gunk".

A refresh kit will have the correct gaskets for your turbo. A rebuild kit will be gaskets and the cartridge.
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Old 16-08-11
james-aero james-aero is offline
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Right the turbo is fully rebuilt and back on the car, just need to figure out how to get the serpentine belt back on the air con compressor pully.

I noticed when i was putting the actuator back on the turbo that when the actuator arm is off the wastegate is able to contact the exhaust blades, so im wondering if this had caused the turbo to sieze up.

Once iv got the belt on il top the engine up with fluids and see if it all works, fingers crossed the turbo is still ballenced enough.
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  #10  
Old 16-08-11
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Diamond Dave Diamond Dave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james-aero View Post
Right the turbo is fully rebuilt and back on the car, just need to figure out how to get the serpentine belt back on the air con compressor pully.
The belt routing diagram should be in the manual or elsewhere on the site. Not sure if you know, but use slow, increasing pressure to compress the shock assembly.
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  #11  
Old 17-08-11
james-aero james-aero is offline
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Thanks for all the advice, the car is back up and running and the turbo is working fine.
Theres no smoke or noise so i think the rebuild was a success and the car has plenty of power as it should now.
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