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  #1  
Old 31st July 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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Default Shaver's '91 Vert

I picked this one up a week or so ago to use as a gas saver daily driver for the gf (currently driving jeep). Its a non-turbo 5-speed vert.
It was certainly a fixer upper but had a decent body and I have lots of spare parts
Apologies for poor quality camera phone pics:



Last edited by shaverjeff; 31st July 2011 at 10:55 AM.
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  #2  
Old 31st July 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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To do list:

Rebuild drivers cv/axle - Complete (Cost - free, had a new spare)
Replace aftermarket air filter with factory turbo box - Complete (Cost - free, had a spare with k&n)
Remove Pin-Stripes - Completed (Cost - free)
Remove Floor Rusters and Patch holes - Pending (Cost - approx $125, undercoating, paint, chemicals, steel, welding wire)
Install Dynamat - Pending (Cost - Est $100.00)
Patch Carpet or replace - Pending (Cost - Est $40.00)
Replace Undercoating where patch panels added - Complete (Cost $20.00)
Replace back window and fix top seams - pending (Cost - free, have a spare)
Replace turn signal stalk - Complete (Cost - free, had a spare)
Remove aftermarket alarm - Complete (Cost - Free)
Tune up, plugs, cap, wires, - Pending (Cost - pending)
Replace front brake lines with ss braded lines - pending (Cost - Est $50.00)
Fix exhaust heat shield - Pending - (Cost - Est Free)

More pictures to follow

Last edited by shaverjeff; 31st July 2011 at 10:57 AM.
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  #3  
Old 31st July 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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  #4  
Old 7th August 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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Weekend update:

Added sounddeadening to interior bits (waiting on dynaliner for floor rusters replacement:


Fixed the heat shield

Patched the heat shield:



Also replacing the rear window and glass. Discovered a previous owners poor fix...those appear to be floor tile grout spacers and some nasty epoxy:




Replaced the rear glass, just need to staple everything back together, had to re-seal the window and back canvas on my spare windo so I didn't get a chance to button things up.

Also I will be replacing the staple strip cover on the back of the top.
I started tearing down the ac to find the leaks.

More updates coming soon...
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  #5  
Old 8th August 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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Note the top is partially open still so it appears to be loose, but really should fit nice and tight when closed, I still need to replace the driver's side roof latch, previous owner broke the handle...
Once I reattach the side spoilers and finish the latch, I'll trim everything nice and tight, clean it up and treat the top, It should look like new!

The dynaliner came in today, probobly start on that tomorrow evening.
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  #6  
Old 16th August 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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Finished dynamat, interior all back in,
Installed new feature strip on top,
Replaced most vacuum lines, replaced clutch to master line,

Lately the clutch has been right at the floor (was low when I bought it) Its common for the clutch master to fail and produce this behavior so I removed it tonight and cleaned/replaced the innards, Unfortunately after extensive bleeding the clutch is still engages too low.

Looking through the inspection hole (should have done this first ) it looks like there is a substantial gap before the slave engages the pressure plate...so it looks like a complete clutch job is in order, but at least I'm confident the clutch master is in proper working order .


Also I must have stressed the main coolant tank hose as I now have a puddle of antifreeze on the garage floor ...I have a spare but probably best to replace with new.

The saga continues...
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  #7  
Old 17th August 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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Tonight I continued to fix the previous owners poor maintenance failures:

Picked up a battery tray, cleaned, painted and installed as the p.o. removed it for some reason...

Looks like the p.o. also replaced the alternator at some point and didn't tie down the cables properly resorting in the positive alternator wire rubbing on the shock tower, Fixed this and tidied up the harness.

Also when the alternator was replaced it was left rubbing on the expansion tank hose and heater hose which has apparently rubbed through the hose causing a leak when the engine is underload stressing on the hoses...(hence the antifreeze I noticed last night) Im thinking this is probobly common failure as my 94 vert hoses are routed fairly close to the alternater as well with some chafing.

Did a basic tune-up: ngk iridiums, fresh bougicords, cap, and rotor etc.

Also a compression test with all cylinders around 180psi which I'm guessing is ok for an NA. (I'm used to the lower compression 2.0 motors)

Waiting on replacement hoses (my spares are all for turbo motors which are slightly different), then teaching the gf to drive a stick prior to tackling the clutch replacement.

I will probobly find lots of other misc things to fix as it appears that whoever maintained this car botched everything they touched...
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  #8  
Old 28th August 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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More progress yesterday, but Ive found more botched repairs from the previous owners...

The p.o. installed a new alternator and starter at the expense of breaking everything in its path . Including heater hoses, heater core nipple, oil dipstick tube, misc wires, they also installed aftermarket "incorrect" positive cables at the junction box which interrupt the vacuum flap for the ac, removed the battery tray, I also found the throttle cable missing a bolth they probobly attempted to remove to access alternator.




Yesterday I replaced the following:
Replaced all AC o-rings (it was obvious p.o. removed lines and left off o-rings in certain areas, and tried to use some sort of putty to seal them)
Cleaned up wires at junction box to allow ac vacuum flap to move.
Replaced expansion tank hose and top heater hose
Rewired alternator
Changed oil
Secured and adjusted throttle cable properly
Replaced the dipstick tube (p.o. had this held together with hose and clamps, it appeared to be leaking heavily from this.

From the looks of things, I've got a lot more cleaning up to do, and a lot more botched fixes from the p.o. to find and repair, looks like this quick fix for a daily driver turned into a rescue mission lol...

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  #9  
Old 3rd September 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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Finished up the convertible top today.
Removed the hydraulic pump dissambled, cleaned, reinstalled.
Replaced all the fluid.
Replaced the drivers latch and handle broken by previous owner.

A bit of bleeding and the system works good as new.
The replaced top fits much cleaner now that both the handles work.

For anyone taking the pump apart I could not locate a direct replacement o-ring (which is where the pump was leaking) I went to the local parts store and was told they absolutely do not carry o-rings that big, so I walked over to the shelf and picked up the filter pictured below which comes with the correct size o-ring Looked it up and its for a 2003 cavalier...

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  #10  
Old 16th November 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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Project Update!

I had been experiencing some nasty gremlins in the form of the engine completely cutting out under load. After going through all the fault codes in the bentley without any significant failures I was suspecting the CPS sensor (others indicated this sounded like the culprit as well).
I was putting this off because its a bit daunting but luckily for me the front mail seal gave way and was leaking oil in streams during one of my test runs.

I rebuilt the cps sensor loom with a new switch per the excellent writeup here:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...t=crank+sensor

I replaced the front main seal (technically the rear in these cars) and also pulled apart the oil pump to install a new gasket as it looked suspicious as well per the excellent write up here:
http://townsendimports.com/Web/engin...nk_seal900.htm

Everything went back together well, just took a bit of patience, which I'm finding harder and harder to come by




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  #11  
Old 16th November 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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Here is the oil pump packed with grease along with the new front main seal. After installing everything I suspect the CPS sensor itself was fine but the fault was in the connector where it meets the wiring harness.
The rubber boots within the grey plastic connector were completely gone and the whole bit was full of oil...
I'm assuming this filled with oil and crud due to the PO's botched dipstick tube fix, (the sensor was directly below where it was leaking)

Also replaced misc intake vacuum grommets and refreshed all the ground connections. So far not a drop of oil leaking and the car is extremely quiet! I almost bumped the starter going pulling in my drive because I thought it stalled but it was just running so quiet



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  #12  
Old 22nd November 2011
shaverjeff shaverjeff is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005                                                
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Put about 120 miles on the car since the above repair. All seams well, still no drips or engine cut-out.
I will need to revisit the top as the pump, lines, or cylinders are losing fluid somewhere.

Also The front suspension will be gone through to eliminate a bad crunching noise, I suspect the ball joints, luckily the shocks were just replaced by PO.

Still on the list of must haves:
New clutch (and associated bits)
New carpet
More intake grommets
New fan thermo switch (Fan runs a bit too long)
Steering wheel bearing (There is a bit of unwanted play here)

Once the mechanics are fixed and can move on to the dash repair and getting rid of all the squeeks and rattles.
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  #13  
Old 24th December 2011
borderwave2 borderwave2 is offline
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want to sell the wheels?
__________________
Saab is not only a car.. but a state of mind.
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