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  #1  
Old 19th July 2011
Mendota's Avatar
Mendota Mendota is offline
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Default Do spark plugs have to be NGK for a 2000 9-5 Aero?

I'm going to change out my plugs and I have been doing some searches here but I haven't quite found the answer to this question. Why do the spark plugs HAVE to be NGK? I have been calling around to local auto parts stores and I even checked with Autopartswarehouse.com and nobody carries the correct NGK plugs for the Aero. They all sell Champion or another brand that starts with "D" and the specs say they are specifically for the Aero. The prices are high enough to seem like they would be a good replacement.

So my question is, do I have to get NGK? I'll go to the dealer to buy them if I have to. I am just curious.

Thanks guys! This site has saved me thousands so far!
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  #2  
Old 20th July 2011
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Saaber95er Saaber95er is offline
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Try eeuroparts.com for your plugs, Dont use iridium plugs in your Saab!

ONLY USE NGK PLUGS!

Hope this info helps:

Guide for Direct Ignition cassette and spark plug service - all DI-equipped vehicles

Using non-resistor spark plugs could cause several different types of fault symptoms and driveability problems in the car. The DI uses the spark plugs are used to monitor the combustion process.

An incorrect spark plug gap (excessive wear) can also lead to driveability problems. Use of non-resistor spark plugs could also destroy the DI cassette.

! - Spark plug burn-off - !
Automatic spark plug burn-off is carried out with a burst of sparks each time the engine is switched off. Burn-off is carried out in all cylinders simultaneously and lasts for 5 seconds at a rate of 210 sparks per second.

! -This Is Lethal Current Use Extreme Caution- !

Therefore, it is very important to adhere to the following guidelines :

When replacing the spark plugs it's important to check following:

- First Allow 30 seconds for the module to power down then remove the electrical plug to ensure your safety.
- Always use resistor type NGK spark plugs. All Saabs equipped with DI cassettes have been specified with resistor type NGK plugs
- Verify the correct gap at the electrode (1.0mm -1.1mm)
- Check For oil leakage from coil assemblies. This would indicate a failed DI assembly.

Before installation of the DI cassette:

Coat the rubber boots on the cassette with Krytox (P/N 30 19 312) or a name brand dielectric grease.
Check to be sure that the contact springs can be seen inside the coil towers and replace them if they are damaged or missing ( P/N 91 67 032)
Coat the thread of the spark plugs with Molycote 1000 (P/N 30 20 271) or high temperature anti-sieze.

Torque:

Install and torque the Spark plugs to 21 lbf ft
Fit the Cassette to the valve cover and torque to 8.1 lbf ft

Spark plug considerations

"7" series spark plugs have a colder heat range than "6" series and are, therefore, commonly used as an alternative plug on cars consistently run at high speeds or under heavy loads.

"R" in the NGK plug designation signifies resistor type.
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  #3  
Old 20th July 2011
MI-Roger MI-Roger is offline
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Default Why NGK

With the Trionic T7 engine management system used on these engines, the spark plug also acts as a sensor in addition to being an ignitor. The fuel-air explosion in the cylinder creates an electromagnetic pulse (similar to the feared dooms-day weapon that may destroy all modern electronics) in the plug that is monitored by the ECU electronics. The ECU uses the timing of this pulse to know precisely when detonation took place and adjusts engine timing accordingly.

Use of a another brand plug with different internal construction would likely have different properties which may affect the ECU's ability to determine precise time of detonation.

Some owners have tried other plugs with very poor results - expecially the "high performance" multi electrode type. I once ran Champions in my lpt, before I knew about the reason NGKs are specifically requested, and did not encounter any problems.

Will others work? Maybe. Will anything bad happen? Your car may run like crap, but no real risk of engine damage if you immediately correct the problem by installing the correct plugs.
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Last edited by MI-Roger; 20th July 2011 at 07:50 PM.
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  #4  
Old 20th July 2011
Jssaab Jssaab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MI-Roger View Post
Will others work? Maybe. Will anything bad happen? Your car may run like crap, but no real risk of engine damage.
THIS IS NOT TRUE, if the knock detection is of and your car is running lean say good bye to a T7 piston...
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  #5  
Old 20th July 2011
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xbriansg36x xbriansg36x is offline
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I run E3s... they work fine and I beat the piss out of my car regularly. and just like the box says I do get better mileage. I understand what the manual says but I don't buy it.
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Old 20th July 2011
MI-Roger MI-Roger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jssaab View Post
THIS IS NOT TRUE, if the knock detection is of and your car is running lean say good bye to a T7 piston...
Duly noted. But if the knock detection is off it won't matter what plugs you are using because the ECU will mis-adjust even with the NGKs. This risk is greater with the non-specified plugs and I revised my post.
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  #7  
Old 20th July 2011
Jssaab Jssaab is offline
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Good luck with that... although the V6 technially is not a Saab engine and not nearly tuned on the edge of breaking liek the 2.3
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Old 20th July 2011
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I have a caddy engine. My E3's do the trick.
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  #9  
Old 21st July 2011
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Mendota Mendota is offline
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Guys, my owner's manual says to use the NGK PFR7H-10 for my Aero.

What is the difference between this plug and the NGK BCPR6ES-11 that the base 9-5 has?

If I use the BCPR6ES-11 will I notice anything or will it cause any damage?
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  #10  
Old 21st July 2011
helmetvonthrob helmetvonthrob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mendota View Post
Guys, my owner's manual says to use the NGK PFR7H-10 for my Aero.

What is the difference between this plug and the NGK BCPR6ES-11 that the base 9-5 has?
Different gap (1.0mm vs. 1.1mm) Higher boost pressures need smaller electrode gaps; too big and the spark gets blown out.

Also PFR are platinum BCP are standard.

For the cost (I buy via eBay for 25/set delivered vs. 8 for the standards) and the last set I changed having covered 25k miles (and if I was stuck I would put them back in).
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  #11  
Old 21st July 2011
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Mendota Mendota is offline
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I called everywhere locally and nobody had any. It was all special order and with shipping it would have been more than the dealer. The dealer had tons. $14 per plug.

They specify the PFR6H-10 now for the Aero. In fact the dealer told me Saab doesn't even specify the 7H-10 anymore and it's all the 6H-10 for the Aero.

Do I need to torque them? I have a torque wrench, if yes. The package says tighten until finger tight and then turn 1/2 to 3/4 turn more. There is also a torque washer on there. This leads me to believe I should be OK following the instructions and not getting out my torque wrench?
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  #12  
Old 21st July 2011
Jssaab Jssaab is offline
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You do nto NEED the PFR do the Aero they are recommended but the only idference is that you do not need to change the platinum until 100 K miles Vs 30 K ANd the dealer will also have the cheaper BCPR6ES that WiLL BE FIne but shoudl be changed more frequently.

You decide 14 bucks and 100k to change or 2 and 30K till change THAT IS THE ONLY DIFFERENCE

You do not need a torque wrench, the plug box will tell you hand tighten plus 1/4 or 1/3 turn ( can't remebEr right now)
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  #13  
Old 27th July 2011
SaabonDeck SaabonDeck is offline
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Whatever you do, don't use E3 plugs in it. The "star fire technology" blew a nice big hole in an exhaust valve in my 9-5 aero. Had to pull the head and $1000 later I use NGK BCPR 7es11.
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  #14  
Old 27th July 2011
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Mendota Mendota is offline
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I just did the PFR6H-10 as the manual and dealer recommends for the Aero. I don't care about the $50 every couple of years. It's worth the peace of mind knowing I have the correct and best ones in there.
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