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NG900 & OG9-3 Workshop NG900 (1994 to 1998) & OG9-3 (1999-2002) & '03 Convertible Technical Forum

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  #1  
Old 4th July 2011
saabtour saabtour is offline
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Default 1999 9-3 water pump replacement.

Hi. My water pump needs replacing. Bougth the replacement part and started to dive in, but it looks damn daunting. Anyone have experience with how to replacae one of these? Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 4th July 2011
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http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=198085
I use anti-rust in the cooling system, even with that, I'll have to do the pump sooner or later, but the last one was on an eighty's Saab, or a 70s, really forget which.
A daunting task its not, IMO... but please do read up, use anti-seize and PB blaster...
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  #3  
Old 4th July 2011
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Originally Posted by saabtour View Post
Hi. My water pump needs replacing. Bougth the replacement part and started to dive in, but it looks damn daunting. Anyone have experience with how to replacae one of these? Thanks in advance.
It's tight, but not really that difficult.

You'll need to start by removing the air cleaner assembly, air cleaner to turbo hose, the turbo heat shield, the serpentine belt and move the power steering pump out of the way.

You'll need to remove the right front tire and the plastic shields between the engine and wheel well.

After that, it's only a few lines and hoses need to be removed or loosened.

The hard line between the back of the water pump and the back of the cylinder head is easy with a long extension to reach behind the exhaust manifold/turbo.
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Old 4th July 2011
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You'll need to remove the right front tire and the plastic shields between the engine and wheel well.
Uhh.... No

By no means would anyone ever need to do that. The water pump is accessed from above. with the possible exception of the turbo coolant line, which can be done from above or below depending on the tools. From below there isnt any need to go through the wheel well.
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  #5  
Old 4th July 2011
Ross Daniel Ross Daniel is offline
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It is not that difficult, maybe 1-2 hours max. The pump with no housing is about $30 on parts geek. Make sure you replace two o-rings between the block and the pump housing sleeve. Replace the thermostat and its seal and check all water hoses. Pay attention to the heater hoses especially the one that connects to the head (it tends to deteriorate at the bent). Good luck.
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Old 4th July 2011
Mr. Bingley Mr. Bingley is offline
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It's been a little while since I did mine, but here is my advice--if it appears to be in the way, remove it--it is. I spent more time trying to work around removing parts than I spent removing (and reinstalling) them after I discovered that there is no work around. Just pull everything out of the way until you have a clear shot at the pump. I do recall ending up removing the aluminum turbo inlet plenum, and wishing I had removed it in the first place. Pay attention to the order things come off and make sure to put them back on in the same order--then you won't have to be like me, and take it all apart again for want of a little bolt that goes in before the inlet plenum goes back on.

+1 on the two o-rings, and be sure to clean the line they go on, and the block where it mounts. I think you do remove the passenger's wheel and flip back the front inner fender liner--to get at the belt. It's no big deal to do, and like I said, just remove everything in the way--don't waste time trying to do a work around.

Have some big wire ties handy to secure the steering pump to the core support, and use a rag where it contacts the support to protect the paint. I found that removing the passenger's headlight and the grill made getting the air cleaner out and in a snap--well worth the 2 minutes it takes to take them out and put back in. I lubricated the o-rings with silicone RTV water pump sealant, as it appeared that the factory had done this as well. So far so good on that--no leaks.

If you haven't already upgraded your crankcase breather assembly, take this opportunity to do it at the same time--most of the same parts have to come off to do either job, and the breather has been redesigned to address a flaw that could cost you your engine.

I found a long (2 foot) 1/4 inch extension and 1/4 inch swivel and deep sockets to be very handy. Tilt head GearWrenches 8mm, 10mm, 12mm and 13mm were also very useful. Also a long magnet will be of great help.

It's a lot of work for a water pump--not impossible, but a lot of work for a wear part--I think Saab had a brain freeze on this one.

Good luck.
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Old 4th July 2011
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Tilt gear wrenches ?
Harbor Freight ?
Are these strong enough to break loose screws ?
The Saab 99/900 series from the 60s,70s were better designed, easier to work on...The 9000 ?.... IMO, it was too short, too compact.
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Old 5th July 2011
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I took mine out today and it didn't take any exotic or fancy tools. A 1/2" ratchet, a short extension, and a 13mm socket got the upper two bolts off, and a 3/8" ratchet, extension, and 13mm socket got the bottom one off. Part of the A/C compressor stuck up too high for a 1/2" extension or ratchet to get a straight shot at the lower bolt. The hard pipes were interesting. They're weren't hard to get off, just a few 10mm bolts, but I've never seen such a design. I agree that taking off the wheel and the access panel in the wheel well makes it a lot easier to get to the belt.
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Old 5th July 2011
Mr. Bingley Mr. Bingley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthworm View Post
Tilt gear wrenches ?
Harbor Freight ?
Are these strong enough to break loose screws ?
The Saab 99/900 series from the 60s,70s were better designed, easier to work on...The 9000 ?.... IMO, it was too short, too compact.
Harbor Freight?!? No--GearWrench brand--I learned long ago never to use cheap tools where it matters. That being said, I wouldn't break a tight bolt free with a GearWrench, I break it free with a regular wrench and then back it out with the gear wrench--quite the time saver in a tight spot .

http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wr...x_combination/
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Old 5th July 2011
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There is no need to take the wheel off because there is no need to remove the belt. The belt just needs to be slipped off the power steering and water pump pulleys and tucked out of the way. You people are making way more work for yourselves than is needed. The belt is incredibly easy to do with the car on the ground. Ive done it countless times on several cars.
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Old 5th July 2011
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Originally Posted by watkins View Post
There is no need to take the wheel off because there is no need to remove the belt. The belt just needs to be slipped off the power steering and water pump pulleys and tucked out of the way. You people are making way more work for yourselves than is needed. The belt is incredibly easy to do with the car on the ground. Ive done it countless times on several cars.
I must agree, I'd rather spend 2 minutes to save 2.5 minutes than to be frustrated into not spending the time to save time and effort...
Make sense ?
And its more satisfying to use brains as opposed to brawn, at least most of the time...
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  #12  
Old 5th July 2011
Mr. Bingley Mr. Bingley is offline
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If you are replacing the water pump, you should replace the antifreeze, O-rings, thermostat, belt, hoses and clamps at the same time--unless any of these items were recently replaced. Not changing the belt is like not changing the filter when you change the oil--penny wise... Like I said earlier, if you haven't upgraded the crankcase breather system already, do this too while you're in there. The belt is something that you should replace any time you take it off--it is cheap but catastrophic if it breaks on the road. Depending on mileage, you will also want to replace the idler and tensioner pulleys too. Preventative maintenance beats repairs every time. If you really wanted to get the maximum prevention points, you would replace the CPS while you're at it (I didn't, and I'm sure I'll regret it sooner or later).
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Old 5th July 2011
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Don't use the GBH brand I have had nothing but trouble with them, they don't last. I purchased a Saab OEM after going through two GBH water pumps in 11 months. Also the neck to the water pump comes out and it has two O'rings, I replaced both of them as well.
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  #14  
Old 6th July 2011
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Originally Posted by Mr. Bingley View Post
I lubricated the o-rings with silicone RTV water pump sealant, as it appeared that the factory had done this as well. So far so good on that--no leaks.
Couldn't agree more with this part. There is nothing more frustrating than getting it all back together only to find out you have a small coolant trickle and need to repeat the entire job again... Go ahead, ask me how I know this .
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Old 6th July 2011
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The belt is something that you should replace any time you take it off--it is cheap but catastrophic if it breaks on the road.
If I replaced the belt every time I took it off Id have bought probably 15 or more belts in the last two years. At $35 a piece, thats quite a bit of pocket change.

Belts dont just snap. They always show signs of wear first. I take a look at the condition of my belt every time I check my oil.

Ive only ever had one belt go on me, and that was because the idler seized. The belt itself would have lasted many thousand miles longer were it not for that. Unsurprisingly, the idler was clearly in need of replacement and I already had one on order to be installed the weekend following the incident.
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  #16  
Old 6th July 2011
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To the OP: did you do the job and if so how did it go?
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