How-to replacing rear engine mount 9000cse 1998

[brens-95]

Items needed

1 * 13mm ring spanner ( about 5inches long)

1 * 17mm socket piece and ratchet

2 * 16mm spanners

1 * 25 mm torx piece or screwdriver

1 * trolley lift + thick piece of wood.

Having read the guide at link on how to replace the rear engine mount i decided to give it a go.

Here's what i found while doing the work on my 1998 9000 cse.

1. All the bolts holding in the rear engine mounts to the chassis are 13mm and not the 13mm/14mm combination as specified.

2. the bolt holding the engine to the mount is 16mm

3. no need to remove wheel arch trim or plastic inserts.

Here's how i did it.

==============================================


1. at the rear of the engine above the rear mount remove the 25 torx screw holding in the pipe and gently flex the pipe out of the way so that you can see the 16mm
bolt ( you will need a torch ) and slid the holding clip to the right

2. loosen driver side wheel

3. jack up car and place axel stand under each side

4. remove drivers wheel

5. now using the 13mm spanner on top and the 17mm socket on the bottom nut remove the 2 bolts/nuts from the drivers side. Access is tight but very manageable.

6. now slide under the car and remove the final nut/blot on the inside of the mount toward s the middle of the car.

7. using a very long extension piece and 16mm socket loosen the bolt (from above) that holds the engine to the mount.

8. now support the engine using the trolley jack and a thick piece of wood under the sump just enough to take the weight off the top engine mount.

9. remove the bolt/nut holding in the top engine mount using the 16mm spanners

10. continue to jack up the engine until you can fully remove the rear mount. all the time checking for clearance . the mount slips out towards the front of the car .

11. install the new mount ( you may need to jack up the engine a little more as the new mount will be taller than the worn old one ) and here's the important piece get the 16mm bolt threaded onto the mount BEFORE lowering the engine back .

12. lower engine back down gently and re-install all 3 bolts/nuts and tighten to required torque 40Nm (30lbft) .

13. reinstall the bolt on the top engine mount and tighten to 40Nm (30lbft)

14. tighten up the 16mm bolt holding the engine to the rear mount.

15. refit the drivers wheel and torque to 115Nm ( 85lbft)

16 . lower the car

17. re-install the supporting clip via the 25 torx screw.

hope this helps to reduce the amount of work required took about 1.5hrs from start to finish.



regards

Disclaimer:
you will be working in an area of risk so you use this procedure at your own risk and i assume no responsibility for your actions using this guide.

[rawill]

Great write up - Nice car too! 1998 CSE, must be the last of those cars made.

[brens-95]

hi rawill

thanks for the feedback. yes its very late 1998 anniversary model which was a bit neglected but i'am getting around to fixing all those little problems

so far i have :

1. the suspension has been lowered (40mm ) and a set of koni adjustable shocks installed ( currently running on base settings ).

2. All engine/gearbox mounts have been replaced

3. auto transmission has been changed and new filter fitted.

4. regular oil/filter changes to remove some of the crud that was let build up

5. front calipers/hub and pads as well as rear pads.

Next on the list to be done are the ball-joints and track rod ends as i'am having a weird problem where it feels like the front suspension is bouncing ( was there before new suspension fitted ) around . Had tracking and balancing done but no difference.


so that will keep me going/learning for a while.

i just love the mid range punch when the turbo comes on song, its too addictive

regards

brendan

[rawill]

But you will love it more, when you get a stg 1 or stg 2 T5 suite tune!

Stg 1 is up to 235hp.

Pity it has had little or no maintenance, cars should not be left to get like that.
I can't believe some of the stuff I have seen in the cars I have bought.

I am wondering what was wrong with the auto - did you read the write up on here on the auto boxes.
I might check my cars auto boxes for those broken "O" rings. Mostly because they have done 140000 and 170000km

[SteveZodiac]

Nice, specially like the red stripe within the bumper, nice and original

Mines' a silver 97 just as yours, engine and transmission that is, its a simple CSE with grey leather, still not really sure in my mind if the Anniversary/Aero bumper and skirts make it look better or not, Aero wheels definitly does though!!

[j006]

Originally Posted by brens-95

Items needed

1 * 13mm ring spanner ( about 5inches long)

1 * 17mm socket piece and ratchet

2 * 16mm spanners

1 * 25 mm torx piece or screwdriver

1 * trolley lift + thick piece of wood.

Having read the guide at link on how to replace the rear engine mount i decided to give it a go.

Here's what i found while doing the work on my 1998 9000 cse.

1. All the bolts holding in the rear engine mounts to the chassis are 13mm and not the 13mm/14mm combination as specified.

2. the bolt holding the engine to the mount is 16mm

3. no need to remove wheel arch trim or plastic inserts.

Here's how i did it.

==============================================


1. at the rear of the engine above the rear mount remove the 25 torx screw holding in the pipe and gently flex the pipe out of the way so that you can see the 16mm
bolt ( you will need a torch ) and slid the holding clip to the right

2. loosen driver side wheel

3. jack up car and place axel stand under each side

4. remove drivers wheel

5. now using the 13mm spanner on top and the 17mm socket on the bottom nut remove the 2 bolts/nuts from the drivers side. Access is tight but very manageable.

6. now slide under the car and remove the final nut/blot on the inside of the mount toward s the middle of the car.

7. using a very long extension piece and 16mm socket loosen the bolt (from above) that holds the engine to the mount.

8. now support the engine using the trolley jack and a thick piece of wood under the sump just enough to take the weight off the top engine mount.

9. remove the bolt/nut holding in the top engine mount using the 16mm spanners

10. continue to jack up the engine until you can fully remove the rear mount. all the time checking for clearance . the mount slips out towards the front of the car .

11. install the new mount ( you may need to jack up the engine a little more as the new mount will be taller than the worn old one ) and here's the important piece get the 16mm bolt threaded onto the mount BEFORE lowering the engine back .

12. lower engine back down gently and re-install all 3 bolts/nuts and tighten to required torque 40Nm (30lbft) .

13. reinstall the bolt on the top engine mount and tighten to 40Nm (30lbft)

14. tighten up the 16mm bolt holding the engine to the rear mount.

15. refit the drivers wheel and torque to 115Nm ( 85lbft)

16 . lower the car

17. re-install the supporting clip via the 25 torx screw.

hope this helps to reduce the amount of work required took about 1.5hrs from start to finish.



regards

Disclaimer:
you will be working in an area of risk so you use this procedure at your own risk and i assume no responsibility for your actions using this guide.

Did this over the weekend. I would like to add a few things that helped on my '97 Aero:

1. When jacking the engine, REMOVE the dogbone up top. If you only take out the horizontal bolt in the front, the dogbone assembly itself prevented the engine from going up once the valve cover touched it. This is especially necessary when installing the new mount, which will be taller than your worn mount.
2. I also found that I had to loosen the transmission mount bolt in order to get the engine high enough. YMMV, but it was too much of a bind when jacking up the passenger side of the engine.
3. I found that the ball joint and CV joint were really getting at too extreme of an angle for my taste when jacking up the engine. Before I jacked the engine up, I used the jacking to lift the control arm up to almost parallel, and then used an extra jack stand to prop it up so that when I began to jack the engine, the angle would only be slight.

Hopefully these additions help someone. I used the solid MTC mounts BTW,and I will say that the vibration is DEFINITELY increased at idle. Not sure if I will get used to it or not. My 9-5 has newish hydraulic mounts and it's butter smooth, so maybe that's why I'm really noticing it.

[Twinsen]

Hopefully these additions help someone. I used the solid MTC mounts BTW,and I will say that the vibration is DEFINITELY increased at idle. Not sure if I will get used to it or not. My 9-5 has newish hydraulic mounts and it's butter smooth, so maybe that's why I'm really noticing it.

Did you see what the idle was like before reconnecting the dogbone? Are your balance shafts still in?

[j006]

Originally Posted by Twinsen

Did you see what the idle was like before reconnecting the dogbone? Are your balance shafts still in?

Didn't try to start the engine after replacing the mounts but after re-installing the dogbone, but I had poly in the dogbone for several months prior to replacing the engine mounts this weekend, so I doubt there would be a difference. I could be wrong though! Balance shafts are intact.

[rawill]

If you put poly mounts in then I think I would not be surprised if there is some more vibration.

[j006]

Originally Posted by rawill

If you put poly mounts in then I think I would not be surprised if there is some more vibration.

Sorry maybe I wasn't clear in my description.

• Purchased the car in May
• In July, I replaced the dog bone mounts with poly - no change in vibration
• Last weekend, replaced the lower hydraulic engine mounts with solid rubber versions - very noticeable vibration at idle