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  #1  
Old 19th February 2011
DJJames DJJames is offline
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Default Girlfriend wont ride in my car. No Heat. No ACC codes. Losing GF

I am getting pretty frustrated with my 9-5 because I still have no heat. I finally fixed all of my ACC error codes by replacing the heater box. I also replaced the heater core while I was in the area. I still have no heat. I have messed with the coolant bypass valve to try to get coolant into the heater core. One side of the heater core is very very hot and the other is noticeably less. What could be causing this, an air bubble in the new heater core?

any ideas would be appreciated. I spent many hours looking thru this site and the WIS and alldata and still haven't found a solution


if i shut off the heat for a few seconds when the car is running warm, both of the heater core pipes become very hot but when i turn the heat back on, one of the heater core pipes becomes slowly colder. Where my heat is going??
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  #2  
Old 19th February 2011
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domer94 domer94 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJJames View Post
I am getting pretty frustrated with my 9-5 because I still have no heat. I finally fixed all of my ACC error codes by replacing the heater box. I also replaced the heater core while I was in the area. I still have no heat. I have messed with the coolant bypass valve to try to get coolant into the heater core. One side of the heater core is very very hot and the other is noticeably less. What could be causing this, an air bubble in the new heater core?

any ideas would be appreciated. I spent many hours looking thru this site and the WIS and alldata and still haven't found a solution


if i shut off the heat for a few seconds when the car is running warm, both of the heater core pipes become very hot but when i turn the heat back on, one of the heater core pipes becomes slowly colder. Where my heat is going??
try blowing compressed ait onto the coolant resservoir , cup your hand tight as you can around the openning and pressurize it with the hose. it may force the coolant through the system enough to knock out any airbound point. just remember to have your heater set to full heat before hand. you may notice a large burp back through the system ... then youll know. also check to see of your hoses are all connected back up correctly i.e. your line to the heater core or bypass valve isnt mixed up with the return end etc etc .
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  #3  
Old 19th February 2011
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could be a bad thermostat. does your needle ever get to halfway and drop? or not get to the halfway mark at all?

my heat worked like crap then i put a new T-stat in and its blazin.
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  #4  
Old 19th February 2011
DJJames DJJames is offline
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@Domer94: I don't have access to compressed air in my home garage, I will try that either later tonight or maybe tomorrow.

@Zachc: I am pretty sure my t-stat is okay because my motor is very warm and one of the heater core lines gets really hot but I have not ruled out replacing it again yet but want to further explore other options first.

I am pretty sure my temp stays in the middle of the operating range after a couple minutes of driving, have never noticed it dip down at all but will keep an eye on it. Will be driving it in an hour or so.
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  #5  
Old 19th February 2011
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take both hoses off that are leading to the heater core and take a garden hose and spray a good stream through one of the holes. water should flow out of the other side. if it doesnt you have an issue still inside. try this out and put it all back together to see if it helps.
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  #6  
Old 20th February 2011
SaabDozer SaabDozer is offline
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Get a new girlfriend
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  #7  
Old 20th February 2011
scoobdude scoobdude is offline
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What you need is a hotter girlfriend to keep you warmer.
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  #8  
Old 20th February 2011
Saab_Sweetheart Saab_Sweetheart is offline
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Buy her a Snuggie (and a winter jacket, hat, gloves, scarf, well you get the idea)

That is what I wear when I ride in my ex's 68 bug with no heat.

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  #9  
Old 20th February 2011
DJJames DJJames is offline
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Haha I told my GF about this thread I started. She frowned when I showed her the post "get a new girlfriend" so we concluded that I would post one of her twit pics.

http://twitpic.com/3zk48p
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  #10  
Old 20th February 2011
DJJames DJJames is offline
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Back to my car: didn't notice the heat gauge going down at all (stays a 9 o'clock)

I think I switched the hoses on the bypass valve before I replaced the heater box and put the vacuum line directly to the valve to activate it. So there should be coolant going thru it but maybe it doesn't flow as efficiently as the correct path?
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  #11  
Old 20th February 2011
Jssaab Jssaab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJJames View Post
Haha I told my GF about this thread I started. She frowned when I showed her the post "get a new girlfriend" so we concluded that I would post one of her twit pics.

http://twitpic.com/3zk48p
Ok the girl is hot we can rul ethat out as a problem..

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJJames View Post
Back to my car: didn't notice the heat gauge going down at all (stays a 9 o'clock)

I think I switched the hoses on the bypass valve before I replaced the heater box and put the vacuum line directly to the valve to activate it. So there should be coolant going thru it but maybe it doesn't flow as efficiently as the correct path?
Needs to be in tthe right orientation to work correctly..

Did you buy a new heater box ( or a used one?) may have added a new problem with that...

Stepper motors don;t give codes ( except on Tech II) and a jamed flap from a broken shaft ( probably your issue) can burn out or make the stepper shaft slip ad not correct your airflow ...
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  #12  
Old 20th February 2011
DJJames DJJames is offline
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The heater box is brand new. I found a great deal on eBay for just under 300 shipped and it included 2 of the motors which were also brand new.
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  #13  
Old 20th February 2011
CKING CKING is offline
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Reminds me of my 1969 Karmann Ghia with no heat...I bought one of those plug in heater from my GF at the time...of course she was so hot that she kept the car warm
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  #14  
Old 20th February 2011
Chris74 Chris74 is offline
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I'd bet the hoses are swapped on the bypass valve. I did that and had no heat for two days...

If you think it is the thermostat, let it get hot then crank the heat. If the needle drops, I'd replace the thermostat, too.
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  #15  
Old 20th February 2011
Jssaab Jssaab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJJames View Post
The heater box is brand new. I found a great deal on eBay for just under 300 shipped and it included 2 of the motors which were also brand new.
Sounds like its the hoses swap em as stated. DId you re-calibrate the air box once you got it in?
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  #16  
Old 20th February 2011
DJJames DJJames is offline
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Yes I recalibrated the ACC like 6 times, no codes at all anymore.
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  #17  
Old 20th February 2011
Jssaab Jssaab is offline
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Swap the hoses and report back,

Also did it stop being warm when you swapped the t-stat before?
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  #18  
Old 21st February 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris74 View Post
I'd bet the hoses are swapped on the bypass valve. I did that and had no heat for two days...
I did this too, very easy to do. Swapped them back and huzzah heat!
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  #19  
Old 21st February 2011
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The online instructions I used when I replaced my bypass valve warned about crossing the hoses (with the consequence being no heat), and suggested that the hoses be clearly marked so reinstallation would be clear. I did as suggested and my valve replacement went off without a hitch.
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  #20  
Old 21st February 2011
ppetree ppetree is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaabDozer View Post
Get a new girlfriend
Just what I was thinking... certainly be cheaper than the parts needed to fix your heater! LOL
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