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| Saab 9-5 Workshop Saab 9-5 Workshop (1997 to 2010) Technical Forum |
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#1
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I am getting pretty frustrated with my 9-5 because I still have no heat. I finally fixed all of my ACC error codes by replacing the heater box. I also replaced the heater core while I was in the area. I still have no heat. I have messed with the coolant bypass valve to try to get coolant into the heater core. One side of the heater core is very very hot and the other is noticeably less. What could be causing this, an air bubble in the new heater core?
any ideas would be appreciated. I spent many hours looking thru this site and the WIS and alldata and still haven't found a solution if i shut off the heat for a few seconds when the car is running warm, both of the heater core pipes become very hot but when i turn the heat back on, one of the heater core pipes becomes slowly colder. Where my heat is going?? |
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#2
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Quote:
__________________
2005 JAGUAR S-TYPE - RACING GREEN 1989 900 CONV RED / TAN / BLK TOP 2004 MAZDA 6S WAGON -(COOL) FAMILY TRUCKSTER 1974 MGB - PURPLE! |
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#3
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could be a bad thermostat. does your needle ever get to halfway and drop? or not get to the halfway mark at all?
my heat worked like crap then i put a new T-stat in and its blazin.
__________________
I <3 SAAB, so i tattooed the Griffin on my arm. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/389851...bo-cd-sedan-4d |
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#4
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@Domer94: I don't have access to compressed air in my home garage, I will try that either later tonight or maybe tomorrow.
@Zachc: I am pretty sure my t-stat is okay because my motor is very warm and one of the heater core lines gets really hot but I have not ruled out replacing it again yet but want to further explore other options first. I am pretty sure my temp stays in the middle of the operating range after a couple minutes of driving, have never noticed it dip down at all but will keep an eye on it. Will be driving it in an hour or so. |
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#5
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take both hoses off that are leading to the heater core and take a garden hose and spray a good stream through one of the holes. water should flow out of the other side. if it doesnt you have an issue still inside. try this out and put it all back together to see if it helps.
__________________
Current Mods: Stage III BSR tune, K&N intake, Taliaferro intake pipe, forge BPV, dual 3" flowmaster exhaust, custom FMIC, Bilstein Sports, sub-frame brace, poly trans mount, HID headlights/foglights, debadged hood, and other little stuff here and there.... |
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#7
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What you need is a hotter girlfriend to keep you warmer.
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#8
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Buy her a Snuggie (and a winter jacket, hat, gloves, scarf, well you get the idea)
That is what I wear when I ride in my ex's 68 bug with no heat.
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#9
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Haha I told my GF about this thread I started. She frowned when I showed her the post "get a new girlfriend" so we concluded that I would post one of her twit pics.
http://twitpic.com/3zk48p |
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#10
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Back to my car: didn't notice the heat gauge going down at all (stays a 9 o'clock)
I think I switched the hoses on the bypass valve before I replaced the heater box and put the vacuum line directly to the valve to activate it. So there should be coolant going thru it but maybe it doesn't flow as efficiently as the correct path? |
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#11
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Quote:
Quote:
Did you buy a new heater box ( or a used one?) may have added a new problem with that... Stepper motors don;t give codes ( except on Tech II) and a jamed flap from a broken shaft ( probably your issue) can burn out or make the stepper shaft slip ad not correct your airflow ... |
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#12
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The heater box is brand new. I found a great deal on eBay for just under 300 shipped and it included 2 of the motors which were also brand new.
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#13
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Reminds me of my 1969 Karmann Ghia with no heat...I bought one of those plug in heater from my GF at the time...of course she was so hot that she kept the car warm
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#14
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I'd bet the hoses are swapped on the bypass valve. I did that and had no heat for two days...
If you think it is the thermostat, let it get hot then crank the heat. If the needle drops, I'd replace the thermostat, too. |
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#15
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Sounds like its the hoses swap em as stated. DId you re-calibrate the air box once you got it in?
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#16
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Yes I recalibrated the ACC like 6 times, no codes at all anymore.
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#17
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Swap the hoses and report back,
Also did it stop being warm when you swapped the t-stat before? |
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#18
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I did this too, very easy to do. Swapped them back and huzzah heat!
__________________
24hrs of LeMons SAAB 900 project: The Carbeque Updated 3/21/13 We beat Emanuele Pirro (driving a Porsche) at Road America in a SAAB, while cooking BBQ ribs in the engine bay. Fourth in class, first in total badassery. |
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#19
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The online instructions I used when I replaced my bypass valve warned about crossing the hoses (with the consequence being no heat), and suggested that the hoses be clearly marked so reinstallation would be clear. I did as suggested and my valve replacement went off without a hitch.
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#20
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Just what I was thinking... certainly be cheaper than the parts needed to fix your heater! LOL
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