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  #1  
Old 31st January 2011
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Default Removing crankshaft pulley

I've decided not to attempt replacing the timing chain on my 9k since the complexity of the job with the 2.0 engine worried me that I wouldn't get it done in the time available (few hours today and some on Saturday coming up), so I'm focusing on the crankshaft pulley and engine mounts only.

I've drained the oil, but can't get the crankshaft pulley nut to come free. I had my wife sit in the car with the brakes hard on and the transmission in 4th gear but it didn't hold the engine steady. I didn't see any way to lock the flywheel so I might try the 'crank the engine' approach.

The engine rotates clockwise when looking from the RHS wheel space with the covers removed. I've got the belts off already so any cranking will be very momentary.

Which way does the nut come off? Is it a normal right-hand threaded nut? Can I position a breaker bar so it will hit against the subframe or the RHS control arm to break the nut free when I crank the engine?

Craig.
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  #2  
Old 31st January 2011
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I've learned a certain technique not too long ago, but I've never used it. Basically what you do is remove the spark plugs and stuff a rubber hose into one of the cylinders. Then you rotate the engine until the piston gets stuck, and remove the bolt. Hope it helps.
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Old 31st January 2011
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1/4" sash cord works well when using the technique described by mrbooby.

Look into the cylinders through the plug bores and find one near (but not at TDC - maybe 2" from the head) Take the rope and while imparting a motion as if you were coiling it up, feed it down the hole. Get as much in there as you can. It will compress a little bit, but eventually the piston will be unable to travel upwards.The crank will then be locked for harmonic balancer/flywheel removal.

Last edited by chengny; 31st January 2011 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 31st January 2011
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If you use that method, make sure the Valves are closed.
If you were not on the compression stroke, the Valves would be open and could bend.
Feel for compression with a finger in the Plug hole before inserting cord, hose, other.
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Old 31st January 2011
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near (but not at TDC - maybe 2" from the head)

Maybe not everyone is familiar with TDC (top dead center) and I should probably tried to be more articulate. Thanks to J Mesthene!



At top dead center the piston is at the upper end of it's compression stroke and both the intake and exhaust valves are seated closed.

Caution: While at the top of it's exhaust stroke, the piston will appear to be in the same position in the cylinder as while in compression. But at this point in the 4-stroke cycle, the exhaust valve will still be slightly open. Jamming a cord in the compression space can easily prevent the valve from seating. This will often cause piston/valve face interference, which in turn, can result in a bent valve stem as the engine is barred over. So: Be sure that the piston is at the top of the compession stroke.

To determine whether the piston is at the top of exhaust or compression stick your finger in the plug hole and crank the engine over with a breaker bar. If you are approaching TDC (the top of the piston travel in compression stroke) the developed pressure will literally try to blow your fingertip out of the plug hole.
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Old 31st January 2011
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I'm not sure I want to try stuffing things into the cylinders. Failing a proper way to lock the flywheel, the starter cranking method seems like the most sensible choice.

So who's done this before? Which way does the crankshaft pulley nut turn (given that the engine rotates clockwise when facing it from the RHS)?

I've got the front of the car up on jackstands at present.

Craig.
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Old 31st January 2011
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Hey Craig I have done it several times with Hondas and Toyotas it sound intimidating, but just bump the key it will be fine. You do not want it to start up so unhook the coil pack. You could use an air gun and just hit it with that. I have seen people use those potable air tanks if you do not have access to an air compressor and loosen stuff that way, but for a big bolt you will probably need 125+or- psi
Steve
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Old 1st February 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chengny View Post

At top dead center the piston is at the upper end of it's compression stroke and both the intake and exhaust valves are seated closed.
There are two TDCs during the 4-stroke cycle. The Piston reaches top dead center at the beginning of the intake stroke and at the beginning of the power stroke.
TDC refers to the Piston position, regardless of Valve position.
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Old 1st February 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sp53 View Post
Hey Craig I have done it several times with Hondas and Toyotas it sound intimidating, but just bump the key it will be fine. You do not want it to start up so unhook the coil pack. You could use an air gun and just hit it with that. I have seen people use those potable air tanks if you do not have access to an air compressor and loosen stuff that way, but for a big bolt you will probably need 125+or- psi
Steve
Thanks for the feedback. Yes I have the DI cassette disconnected (first thing I do when I do work under the car). I don't have an air gun but I do have an air ratchet. That may work.

Which way does the nut fit on? Is it a standard RH threaded nut? I'll have a go at cracking it loose on the weekend and might use the subframe to stop the breaker bar from rotating.

Craig.
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Old 1st February 2011
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i believe the nut is reverse threaded
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Old 2nd February 2011
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It's standard, right-hand thread.
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Old 2nd February 2011
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Bump the starter and put the breakerbar on something steady. I wouldn't stuff things down my cylinders when bumping the starter is so easy...
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Old 2nd February 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaMiKaZi_t0M View Post
Bump the starter and put the breakerbar on something steady. I wouldn't stuff things down my cylinders when bumping the starter is so easy...
It's much safer to lock the cylinder in place and loosen the bolt by hand.
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Old 2nd February 2011
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hmmm. i write up i saw for this job said the bolt was reverse threaded. oh well whatever. guess that guy was wrong haha
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Old 4th February 2011
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tomorrow I'll give the pulley replacement a go. When re-installing the big nut that holds the pulley on, any good ways to make that torque up? My torque wrench definitely will have the right torque setting on it's dial (mine goes up to 150 ft/lb - I use that setting for 32 mm hub nuts as that's the highest it goes to!).

I don't have a rattle gun. 8-)

Craig.
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Old 5th February 2011
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The 'crank with the starter' method has now worked - after four attempts and lots more penetrating fluid! I got the nut in such a position as I could slide the breaker bar into an open area of the frame above where the subframe attaches and that held the bar and socket steady.

Now I am having problems getting the pulley to come off the crankshaft. I realise it's not quite an interference fit but I will persist with more penetrant and long screwdrivers levering the back of it against bolts heads on the bottom part of the cover immediately behind the pulley.

How do you correctly re-torque the nut after installing the new pulley btw? It's not really possible to run the engine backwards to use a similar method (combined with my torque wrench set to 125 ft/lb) to tighten it up again.

Craig.
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Last edited by c900; 5th February 2011 at 12:55 AM.
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  #17  
Old 5th February 2011
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you should really give the "rubber hose down a spark plug hole" method a try.
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Old 5th February 2011
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Default tightening up crank pulley nut....

Ok I got the crank pulley off after a LOT of penetrant and lots of very gentle levering with long screwdrivers and a small pry bar.

New pulley is on and I also did the seal behind it. Now how do I get the nut tightened up to 125 ft/lb? I can get about 30 or 40 by quickly yanking the torque wrench before the engine turns.

I'll co-opt my wife to do the 4th gear stomp hard on brake method and see how much tighter it will get. Shame it's dark but at least it's not 40 C out there!

Craig.

PS. Also replaced the engine mounts. Front one turned out to be ok, but the back one was shot (torn rubber, etc.). I now have a good (used) hydraulic one at the front (I pulled the one from my car as it's filthy) and a new solid one at the back.

PPS. Now 2.30 am on Sunday morning! We were able to use the 4th gear + brake method to hold the engine enough to tighten the nut on the new crank pulley up to 90 ft/lb and no more, so I've just left it like that. Temp is still well over 20 C outside but the last few hours have been really good for finishing off re-assembling all the stuff I took off to do the mounts and crank pulley.
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Last edited by c900; 5th February 2011 at 10:40 AM. Reason: finally completed and mostly tidied up - time for zzzzzz
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  #19  
Old 7th September 2011
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Wondering if anyone has advice to re-tighten the Flywheel bolt. Is there a locking tool? I have an automatic 9000, so not sure the "4th gear and brake" method will produce any results for me.
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Old 7th September 2011
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It might be best to tighten the best you can either hold the belt or smack the wrench with a hammer be careful and then find someone with an impact gun to tighten it to say about 120psi. I have done that before, just do not drive it too much until it is tight.
steve
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