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NG900 & OG9-3 Workshop NG900 (1994 to 1998) & OG9-3 (1999-2002) & '03 Convertible Technical Forum

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  #1  
Old 18th November 2010
saab1969 saab1969 is offline
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Default where to spray starter fluid?

I have installed a new starter and battery, and 1996 se turbo will not start. I read in a forum to try a little starter fluid in the throttle body. Where do I exactly spray this, a picture would be helpful, and is this ok to do with a turbo?
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  #2  
Old 18th November 2010
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Follow the pipe from the intercooler past the battery and back to the top of the engine. It connects to the top of the throttle body... Ron
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Old 18th November 2010
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On top of the throttle body is the throttle body transition casting and that connects to the turbo delivery pipe. There is an electrical connector and sensor inserted into the forward facing side of the transition casting. This is the intake air temperature sensor. Carefully disconnect the connector and unscrew that and you can spritz starter fluid into the throttle body without taking everything else off. Do not twist the plasitc body of the sensor - use only the metal hex fitting to unscrew it:
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Old 18th November 2010
Tweek's Turbos Tweek's Turbos is offline
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Have you tried a spare DI cassette? it is the red thing on top of the engine. My mom describes it as looking like cow utters when you remove it.
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Old 18th November 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saab1969 View Post
I have installed a new starter and battery, and 1996 se turbo will not start. I read in a forum to try a little starter fluid in the throttle body. Where do I exactly spray this, a picture would be helpful, and is this ok to do with a turbo?
This is not a carbureted, 60's car - it has a high-pressure fuel injection system. If it doesn't start, there is something wrong that needs to be rectified.
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Old 23rd November 2010
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does the engine turn over? and the starter turn? hear the solenoid click when you turn the key?

Having just replaced my starter 3 times (due to bad parts from the junk yard - luckily they were warranteed... ) On two of them, the solenoid didn't function. Also had a problem with the contacts on the starter that were a little grimey so they functioned intermittantly.

If those things due check out, check for fuel pressure at the rail - there's a fitting on the rail (not unlike a bike tire) that has a black plastic cover on it. (you can verify if the pump turns on by listening when you turn the key to the on position)

Check spark.

Check related fuses.

Try a new DI cassette.

IMO you shouldn't need starter fluid.
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Old 23rd November 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saab1969 View Post
I have installed a new starter and battery, and 1996 se turbo will not start. I read in a forum to try a little starter fluid in the throttle body. Where do I exactly spray this, a picture would be helpful, and is this ok to do with a turbo?
These are high-pressure, fuel-injected cars. Starter fluid will not help anything. If it won't start, there's something else wrong.
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Old 24th November 2010
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He has described, via some PM's to me, a pretty solid case for a failed fuel pump or fuel pump relay. He is checking that out. Starter fluid (in conjunction with the banging on the fuel tank test) is useful in diagnosing fuel pump issues.
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Old 24th November 2010
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Why don't you just bang on the tank a few times (if you don't hear the fuel pump running, of course) to see if the pump starts running and lets the car start?
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Old 24th November 2010
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from what is written so far, my guess is that you need a fuel pump. you can do a lot of damage with starting fluid. be cautious.
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Old 26th November 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busaboy View Post
Why don't you just bang on the tank a few times (if you don't hear the fuel pump running, of course) to see if the pump starts running and lets the car start?
This does not always work - sometimes the pump is too far gone or the problem is the relay. Using starting fluid will let the engine turn over and start and run for few seconds. If it stops again, you know the problem is most likely the pump or the relay (rarely it is a clogged filter or a completely knackered FPR). If the starter fluid test is positive (the car starts and dies a few seconds later), the next step is to give the tank thumping test a try, but a negative tank thump test tells you nothing because it does not always work. Of course, if the tank thump test lets the car start and run, you have indeed identified that the pump is failing. If the test does not work, you will have to test the relay to eliminate it from consideration.
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Old 26th November 2010
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i would use carb cleaner before i tried starting fluid, personally.
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Old 27th November 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busaboy View Post
This is not a carbureted, 60's car - it has a high-pressure fuel injection system. If it doesn't start, there is something wrong that needs to be rectified.
This is but a diagnostic step.
As to the DIC and a cow's udder, that must be one strange bovine..
I was able to start the out of commission glow plugs VW by spraying the ether at the engine air intake, atop the inner fender..
Like so many things, there are so many ways.
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Old 1st December 2010
saab1969 saab1969 is offline
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Default Thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by Saaboheme View Post
He has described, via some PM's to me, a pretty solid case for a failed fuel pump or fuel pump relay. He is checking that out. Starter fluid (in conjunction with the banging on the fuel tank test) is useful in diagnosing fuel pump issues.
Thank you for your help. Your information was spot on. I spritzed it with starter fluid and she started for a second. Then, I removed the backseat and used a rubber mallet to tap the area over the access panel. After that I turned the key and sure enough she started and ran. I shut her off and started her several times consecutively, successfully.
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Old 1st December 2010
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Hey, some say this is a fuel injected engine and you can't use starting fluid to test the fuel pump. Just don't use too much.

Don't forget, that pump is now running on borrowed time. Get it changed ASAP... Ron
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  #16  
Old 1st December 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saab1969 View Post
Thank you for your help. Your information was spot on. I spritzed it with starter fluid and she started for a second. Then, I removed the backseat and used a rubber mallet to tap the area over the access panel. After that I turned the key and sure enough she started and ran. I shut her off and started her several times consecutively, successfully.
WTF?...see post #9! Oh, well - at least you got to use your starting fluid!! lol!!
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  #17  
Old 2nd December 2010
saab1969 saab1969 is offline
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Default Fyi

Quote:
Originally Posted by '97 Saab SE Turbo View Post
Hey, some say this is a fuel injected engine and you can't use starting fluid to test the fuel pump. Just don't use too much.

Don't forget, that pump is now running on borrowed time. Get it changed ASAP... Ron
I ordered one up and am waiting for its arrival. I don't want to be waiting in the parking lot for AAA again! Thanks.
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  #18  
Old 2nd December 2010
saab1969 saab1969 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busaboy View Post
WTF?...see post #9! Oh, well - at least you got to use your starting fluid!! lol!!
I had already completed the work before your post. I was away for the Thanksgiving holiday week so hadn't had a chance to update everyone. I appreciate your input though. Thanks
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  #19  
Old 2nd December 2010
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Then, the first step for me, or anyone with a high mileage car or Saab is to cut the access door to the FP.
The second step is to have the pump "nearly in hand"..eEuuroParts is good here, as are others....must cut down on down time.
Be prepared.
Also , there are many techniques, the idea is to avoid being stranded...Assure that we have access...a shoe can replace the mallet(Nikita Khruschev at the UN).
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  #20  
Old 30th October 2013
WAASAABI WAASAABI is offline
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Great thread. This explained my slow starts in the morning.

Car just died while driving. I swapped in my "new" DIC; Codes told me it might be going, but that didn't fix things. Ultimately the starting fluid and rubber mallet worked, and the car ran great. Turned it off to test and it would not restart.

The starting fluid did produce a knock (one time) that I didn't like. Do I need to use it again or has it served it's diagnostic role and I just keep banging on the tank?

P.S. It's a convertible, so it looks like I will be dropping a FULL tank of gas to do the work. Crap!!

Thanks for the help.
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