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NG900 & OG9-3 Workshop NG900 (1994 to 1998) & OG9-3 (1999-2002) & '03 Convertible Technical Forum

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  #1  
Old 23rd August 2010
slick8 slick8 is offline
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Default 1999 saab 93 heater control knob?

is there a big problem with this unit, the knob snapped off, can i just buy a new knob or is there an issie with the unit?
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  #2  
Old 23rd August 2010
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Can a new knob be attached or is the shaft broken?
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  #3  
Old 23rd August 2010
ataririder ataririder is offline
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You can get a new knob at eEuroparts.com
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  #4  
Old 24th August 2010
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I'm seeing this issue come up a lot. You can replace both the shaft and knob with parts from thesaabsite.com or EEuroparts.com but, as the saab site says:

NOTE: Cabin control knob failures are often the result of a binding heater box. You can replace the knob but you may eventually have to do something with the heater box as well. Issues exist with the box which creates the knob problem. Only the right shaft can be replaced. If the other side is messed up as well you must replace 5174685 depending on the car you have NOTE: Knob failures are common but generally indicate that the vent housing is in a bind causing them to fail. The knobs are fairly inexpensive in comparison to replacing the housing so most people choose to replace the knobs
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  #5  
Old 14th September 2011
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Guys, my heater temp control knob snapped off. I found a replacement knob on Eeuroparts.com and I also found a replacement complete housing, with both knobs, the part #5174685.

Can I just replace the knob itself and hope for the best, or do I need to replace the whole housing?

Thanks guys!
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  #6  
Old 15th September 2011
win_k win_k is offline
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Originally Posted by Mendota View Post
Guys, my heater temp control knob snapped off. I found a replacement knob on Eeuroparts.com and I also found a replacement complete housing, with both knobs, the part #5174685.

Can I just replace the knob itself and hope for the best, or do I need to replace the whole housing?

Thanks guys!
The knobs do get brittle with age but I'd still want to check the lever/cable system to ensure the problem is just age and not a binding cable or heater diverter.

The heater control cable runs across the control panel and down to the forward lower corner of the air box on the right side so it does take a bit of digging to get to the relevant bits.
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Old 15th September 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99_9-3Mike View Post
I'm seeing this issue come up a lot. You can replace both the shaft and knob with parts from thesaabsite.com or EEuroparts.com but, as the saab site says:

NOTE: Cabin control knob failures are often the result of a binding heater box. You can replace the knob but you may eventually have to do something with the heater box as well. Issues exist with the box which creates the knob problem. Only the right shaft can be replaced. If the other side is messed up as well you must replace 5174685 depending on the car you have NOTE: Knob failures are common but generally indicate that the vent housing is in a bind causing them to fail. The knobs are fairly inexpensive in comparison to replacing the housing so most people choose to replace the knobs
Do you or anyone know how to check this? (vent housing?) mine is the same and I dont want to just replace the knob if the box is bound up.
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  #8  
Old 15th September 2011
win_k win_k is offline
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Originally Posted by srmoose View Post
Do you or anyone know how to check this? (vent housing?) mine is the same and I dont want to just replace the knob if the box is bound up.
On the left hand drive cars, remove the glove box and then the duct between the air box and the right most dash vent.

The air diverter drum is accessible through the duct outlet. Should be pretty darn easy to turn by hand.

If the drum is binding (very, very common) there is a trick to drive a screw through the bottom front corner of that duct outlet (there's a "lump" there) that will push the air box cover away from the drum.

Probably a good time to spray in some dry lubricant too.
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  #9  
Old 15th September 2011
srmoose srmoose is offline
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Originally Posted by win_k View Post
On the left hand drive cars, remove the glove box and then the duct between the air box and the right most dash vent.

The air diverter drum is accessible through the duct outlet. Should be pretty darn easy to turn by hand.

If the drum is binding (very, very common) there is a trick to drive a screw through the bottom front corner of that duct outlet (there's a "lump" there) that will push the air box cover away from the drum.

Probably a good time to spray in some dry lubricant too.
thanks I will check it today (I had to check my ECU anyway for a misfire on #3 that I cant track down) so the glove box was coming out anyway
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1990 900 3 dr RIP, 1985 900 2 dr coupe RIP
1986 900 4 dr RIP 1976 99 2 dr RIP, 1977 99 5 dr RIP
1973 Sonett Gone but not forgotten
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  #10  
Old 15th September 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99_9-3Mike View Post
I'm seeing this issue come up a lot. You can replace both the shaft and knob with parts from thesaabsite.com or EEuroparts.com but, as the saab site says:

NOTE: Cabin control knob failures are often the result of a binding heater box. You can replace the knob but you may eventually have to do something with the heater box as well. Issues exist with the box which creates the knob problem. Only the right shaft can be replaced. If the other side is messed up as well you must replace 5174685 depending on the car you have NOTE: Knob failures are common but generally indicate that the vent housing is in a bind causing them to fail. The knobs are fairly inexpensive in comparison to replacing the housing so most people choose to replace the knobs
My 1234 knob suddenly got "hard". On the 4 setting, if i PUSH the knob in, it turns the compressor on. If not, the air will not turn on. Is this the same issue? None of the others (123) work.
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  #11  
Old 15th September 2011
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If it only works on 4 (high) then it is probably a resistor issue, in the 4 position +12V is sent to the fan, in the other positions voltage is sent via a resistor to reduce the voltage and fan speed.
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  #12  
Old 15th September 2011
shift_ nah23 shift_ nah23 is offline
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Originally Posted by jakejm79 View Post
If it only works on 4 (high) then it is probably a resistor issue, in the 4 position +12V is sent to the fan, in the other positions voltage is sent via a resistor to reduce the voltage and fan speed.
USED to work in 4. I would have to switch there first then go lower several times to get it to run 3 and 1. It wouldn't work on 2. Ocassionally on 1 it would cut out. Sometimes it only ran in BETWEEN 3 and 4....stopped working today.

http://www.thesaabsite.com/93/93fans...eplacement.htm

Is that what i need to do?
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  #13  
Old 23rd September 2011
shift_ nah23 shift_ nah23 is offline
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The shaft of the fan speed of my manual a/c control has recessed in. Apparently I broke it. Can I replace this or do I have to buy a new assembly?
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  #14  
Old 23rd September 2011
BobSaabit BobSaabit is online now
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Originally Posted by shift_ nah23 View Post
USED to work in 4. I would have to switch there first then go lower several times to get it to run 3 and 1. It wouldn't work on 2. Ocassionally on 1 it would cut out. Sometimes it only ran in BETWEEN 3 and 4....stopped working today.

http://www.thesaabsite.com/93/93fans...eplacement.htm

Is that what i need to do?
Sounds more like the switch in your case.
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  #15  
Old 23rd September 2011
shift_ nah23 shift_ nah23 is offline
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The broken switch happened recently. I hit it like an idiot and broke it. The fact that it would only run in certain settings and turn off on 1 seems more to me to be a resistor issue, don't you think?
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  #16  
Old 23rd September 2011
BobSaabit BobSaabit is online now
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Originally Posted by shift_ nah23 View Post
The broken switch happened recently. I hit it like an idiot and broke it. The fact that it would only run in certain settings and turn off on 1 seems more to me to be a resistor issue, don't you think?

The fact that it was intermittent is what makes me think it is the switch. Once the resistors burn, they are burned. Also, only running between positions 3 and 4 sounds like the switch.
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  #17  
Old 23rd September 2011
shift_ nah23 shift_ nah23 is offline
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Originally Posted by BobSaabit View Post
The fact that it was intermittent is what makes me think it is the switch. Once the resistors burn, they are burned. Also, only running between positions 3 and 4 sounds like the switch.
Time to purchase a new assembly then. New to me anyway...lol
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  #18  
Old 26th September 2011
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Just getting back to this. My new knob arrived but when I look at the assembly I seem to be missing the "cross" like shaft that should mate with the female "cross" on the back of the knob itself.

It looks like there is supposed to be a shaft that protrudes from the assembly so the knob can slide onto it and remain in place.

Is this shaft replaceable? How do I replace it, if yes?
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  #19  
Old 20th November 2012
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Guys, I want to revive this because I am still having the same issue and I never fixed it. I only drive my convert in the summer and the temp control is broken in the COLDEST position, so I'm good 99% of the time except for late fall before the car gets stored.

I purchased a brand new knob and my shaft in the box is broken, so I can't mate the end of the knob up with anything in the box. I found replacement shafts online and I also found switches online that appear to be the inner workings of the control box where the knobs attach.

Can I just purchase a new shaft or something so I can attach my new knob or do I have to buy a new control box?

Anyone have any good input on fixing that damned issue? I leased a '99 9-3 back when they first came out and I had that issue happen 5 times with that car. This is my first time with this convertible, same year.
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  #20  
Old 20th November 2012
EdT EdT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mendota View Post
Guys, I want to revive this because I am still having the same issue and I never fixed it. I only drive my convert in the summer and the temp control is broken in the COLDEST position, so I'm good 99% of the time except for late fall before the car gets stored.

I purchased a brand new knob and my shaft in the box is broken, so I can't mate the end of the knob up with anything in the box. I found replacement shafts online and I also found switches online that appear to be the inner workings of the control box where the knobs attach.

Can I just purchase a new shaft or something so I can attach my new knob or do I have to buy a new control box?

Anyone have any good input on fixing that damned issue? I leased a '99 9-3 back when they first came out and I had that issue happen 5 times with that car. This is my first time with this convertible, same year.
I would look in the junkyard for a good heater control box. This would give you spare parts at the very least. A pull-your-own yard shouldn't charge more than $20 or $30 for the entire unit. As a bonus, you get practice in pulling it out. And you get the bulbs (which tend to burn out), switches, etc.

A stupidly temporary fix is to remove the temp control cable from the back of the heater control, and work it by hand. Or take off the right-side console cover, and move the heat control lever (which is actuated by the cable, which is moved by the knob on the shaft which is broken) by hand.
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