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  #1  
Old 9th June 2010
dougwentzel dougwentzel is offline
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Lightbulb Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement Guide

The following is the procedure I developed to change the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS ) on my 1996 Saab 900S 2.3 L NA. It is a very simple part to replace, and is also a cheap part, at $42 from the dealer I bought it from (who would’ve thought a dealer would have a part for a good price, let alone have the part I wanted at all ). In case you were wondering, here is how I confirmed the CPS was not working correctly. The car would not start sometimes on hot days after short trips, it would turn off if it got too hot while driving (which was scary), I could hear the fuel pump working, I checked the started for the correct charge (it was fine as I thought), I already did the Neutral Safety Switch bypass as a precaution.
Here are the steps:
1) Make sure your engine bay is cool because you will be bumping into and touching the engine block and surrounding parts during this installation.
2) Locate the CPS. It is directly across from the radiator fan, about 8 inches down from the top of the fan. I can post pictures later tonight.
3) Using the largest torx screwdriver fitting that was supplied with the car, remove the single torx screw at the upper right of the CPS.
4) Now, before you remove the CPS, trace the wire it is connected to around the right side of the engine, and up under where the plenum/TB cover would reside. I have a custom intake so I did not have to remove anything to see this connection. There is a white plug with a red plastic box that penetrates the white plug perpendicularly. Simply pull the red box away from the large white connection to allow the CPS connection and wire to fall free.
5) Now, you can either patiently route the connection you just took apart back around the engine to get the old CPS out of there, or you can take as little time as I did and simply cut the wire in half and pull the ends out.
6) The CPS should now pull right out.
7) Quickly place the new CPS into the slot in the engine block, as to avoid any debris getting in there. MAKE SURE THE OLD O-RING COMES OFF AND THE NEW O-RING GOES ON the shaft of the new CPS before pushing the part in.
8) Retorx the screw.
9) Pull the end connection through all of the tubing and parts in your way. Find the metal spring-formed arch that holds the CPS wire from jingling about and with one hand, pry it open while you push the wire under the clip to secure it. This step can be tricky, but is very important to ensure the wire does not vibrate and prematurely malfunction.
10) Do the opposite of step 4.
11) You’re done!
Please feel free to ask me any questions! Hopefully some will find this guide to be helpful!
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  #2  
Old 23rd July 2010
sabhain sabhain is offline
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Do you have any photos for this? I'm thinking about trying this tomorrow to save some service garage costs.

Thanks!
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  #3  
Old 23rd July 2010
rotate rotate is offline
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some pictures to aid you.




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  #4  
Old 24th July 2010
sabhain sabhain is offline
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This was very helpful. Did it this morning in about an hour and a half, including oil change. We'll see if it solves my warm start problem.
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Old 24th July 2010
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touche6784 touche6784 is offline
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argh, I could have used this last week! I had my CPS changed by my mechanic. Coulda' saved some money if I had this. drats. oh well
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  #6  
Old 26th July 2010
dougwentzel dougwentzel is offline
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How'd you make out? Everything good?

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Originally Posted by sabhain View Post
This was very helpful. Did it this morning in about an hour and a half, including oil change. We'll see if it solves my warm start problem.
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  #7  
Old 26th July 2010
sabhain sabhain is offline
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Actually quite well, thanks. Thus far no starting problems at all.

Like many others have posted, it took me longer to route the cables than it did to change the sensor. I had the car up on one jack stand and did everything from the bottom. A bit tight, but I was able to get my paws in there to loosen the screw. Including the time to get to the dealer and back, I think I spent 2 hours on the CPS and an oil change. Not bad.

It did run really rough when I started it up, and I was starting to head down the road to a fuel filter, etc. But it never stalled.

Then yesterday I was looking around at the engine compartment and found that the brake booster vacuum line was sort of disconnected in the middle. Near where the CPS is plugged in, there's a check valve or something right by where the vac line runs into the intake manifold. It was disconnected. So the intake manifold was pulling in extra oxygen .. and I think choking the engine.

Plugged that back together (I need to either tape it up or replace the entire part soon) and it now runs very smoothly. So two really hot days and no problems stalling or non-starting.

Seems like that problem might be behind me. Now I need to just get the AC working and I'll be in good shape. Starting to look at the expansion valve .. but that's another day and another thread.

This car might get saved yet.

Thanks for the help.
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  #8  
Old 18th December 2011
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prettylittleblackbird prettylittleblackbird is offline
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Whoo hoo, changed my plugs, leads, dist cap and rotor button and went off for a test drive.. Stopped dead in the traffic rather than the usual stall at lights. Friend checked and ' no spark' , thinking the Crank angle sensor??Made it home with another 4 stopped deads along the way... LOL.....
Great to find the ' how to' on here.
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  #9  
Old 18th December 2011
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The stalling MAY be a failing CPS.
Go on a test ride, and when she fails again, measure the CPS's resistance(540 ohm). This unit developes a signal of 2.5 volt..
I changed mine while it was still functioning OK at 150K or so miles.
And , thanks to Doug and Rotate, et al ,this is a great thread with suburb pics.
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  #10  
Old 11th January 2012
jlertdilok jlertdilok is offline
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Had the same symptoms, stalling after engine was warmed up, no-start until engine cooled off... After replacing the crankshaft position sensor, things have been working fine now for several months.

Also, the pictures on this site helped me most (says 9-5 instructions, but this worked for my 9-3 Viggen, I think similar engines):
http://www.twinsaabs.com/9-5_repair/...o.asp?nsteps=2
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Old 21st January 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthworm View Post
The stalling MAY be a failing CPS.
Go on a test ride, and when she fails again, measure the CPS's resistance(540 ohm). This unit developes a signal of 2.5 volt..
I changed mine while it was still functioning OK at 150K or so miles.
And , thanks to Doug and Rotate, et al ,this is a great thread with suburb pics.
I dont know how to measure resistance. That will b the next rhing to learn if needed.
Took the CPS off ( couldnt budge it with the saab torque screwdriver and no 30 bit so spent $58 and got a socket set and decent torque bit from auto one. The screw came off very easily and access was good. The bit i had trouble with was removing the cable of the CPS from a metal clip about 1/2 way along its length. I ended up cutting the CPS cable in 2 with side cutters. Sitting in the car now having the test run. NOT going on the road until it does at least 40 mins here on idle. Previous to replacing CPS car would turn itself off after approx 12 to 20 mins. Been testing and keeping battery charged for last 3 weeks waiting for the part from UK. 24 mins running now and all is well. Im getting some clicking noises from the dash area every so often? Resetting itself? The timing?
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  #12  
Old 17th January 2013
jrinjun jrinjun is offline
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Did you ever figure out the clicking noise. My 98 900s with 182K Mi occassionaly clicks when engine is shut off. I am about to change the CPS, check valve and fuel pump because it is unable to stay idle..
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  #13  
Old 17th January 2013
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prettylittleblackbird prettylittleblackbird is offline
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Default clicking.

The clicking noise stopped after a while.
All has been great since the new sensor went in.
Having roof problems agin, but tht's for another thread, LOL...
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  #14  
Old 17th January 2013
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earthworm earthworm is offline
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Checking resistance, measuring amps, volts can be fun and valuable on the car and around the house..
For the Saab, or any vehicle, buy the repair manual.
Google/Wikipedia ohms and resistance.
Have fun, save money
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  #15  
Old 4th March 2013
mr rx-7 tt mr rx-7 tt is offline
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My car won't start at all after it sat all night, hopefully it is the CPS. The car has a new Fuel pump btw.
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  #16  
Old 4th March 2013
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This is one excellent thread...and a favorite (bookmarked)
At the no-start event, I would pull and read the plugs..
May as well do a compression test as well.
The CPS should be re-newed every 150K miles or so, as preventative maintenance....to keep the reliability high.
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  #17  
Old 4th March 2013
Pontius DIO Pontius DIO is offline
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Wish I saw this earlier LOL. Anyone know which prongs to test for the resistance? Only 3 prongs
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Old 4th March 2013
jrinjun jrinjun is offline
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Default Clicking

The clicking went away after just replacing my CPS. My roof leaks too. Keep me updated on what you find out. I started a post on that subject years ago when it started and I still couldn't find the leak.

Quote:
Originally Posted by prettylittleblackbird View Post
The clicking noise stopped after a while.
All has been great since the new sensor went in.
Having roof problems agin, but tht's for another thread, LOL...
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  #19  
Old 4th March 2013
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teeuwen teeuwen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrinjun View Post
The clicking went away after just replacing my CPS. My roof leaks too. Keep me updated on what you find out. I started a post on that subject years ago when it started and I still couldn't find the leak.
do you have a sunroof?

My "roof" leaked when i first got my car, one of the couplers for sunroof drainage was actually broken, i made my own coupling and all has been well sense then.

Had a bad weekend here, i will have a cps arrive tomorrow, hopefully my car will be working again after that if not.... farewell to saab
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  #20  
Old 4th March 2013
jrinjun jrinjun is offline
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Describe the coupler please. I DO have a sunroof and I noticed that there is a small metal arm on the pass side that is not attached properly but doesn't effect the function of the sunroof. Any help would be appreciated.
-JR
Quote:
Originally Posted by teeuwen View Post
do you have a sunroof?

My "roof" leaked when i first got my car, one of the couplers for sunroof drainage was actually broken, i made my own coupling and all has been well sense then.

Had a bad weekend here, i will have a cps arrive tomorrow, hopefully my car will be working again after that if not.... farewell to saab
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