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  #1  
Old 17th February 2010
cromero cromero is offline
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Default clutch removal problems

i'm right in the middle of removing clutch slave and cover plate and unable to get assemble off. there does not seem to be enough clearence. the cover plate does pop off but springs back the the engine side. an inspection of the spring reveals that i may not have all the tines locked in all the way. any ideas on how get assembly off?

chris
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  #2  
Old 17th February 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cromero View Post
i'm right in the middle of removing clutch slave and cover plate and unable to get assemble off. there does not seem to be enough clearence. the cover plate does pop off but springs back the the engine side. an inspection of the spring reveals that i may not have all the tines locked in all the way. any ideas on how get assembly off?

chris
Are you using the clutch spacer ring? Do you plan to reuse the slave and/or coverplate or will you be replacing them both? I do have a hack method if you are replacing everything but it is not for the faint at heart. Otherwise, you need to use the clutch pedal to compress the disk more and get the spacer in there better. At best it's always tight getting them out. If the slave is not working, you need the special compression tool or a number of other methods to compress the clutch enough to get the spacer in.
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  #3  
Old 17th February 2010
cromero cromero is offline
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finally got it out. what a s o b. i was originally just planning on just rebuilding my slave valve. it was leaking. but now that i got the whole thing out, maybe i should just replace the clutch as well. i'm not sure how thick the plate should be but it sure seems thin.

any pros and cons out there. also is there anything else i should replace while i'm this deep into the clutch area. seals , etc.

i plan to order parts tonight eeuroparts.

thanks in advance. this site rocks. chris
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  #4  
Old 17th February 2010
milos milos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cromero View Post
but now that i got the whole thing out, maybe i should just replace the clutch as well. i'm not sure how thick the plate should be but it sure seems thin.

any pros and cons out there. also is there anything else i should replace while i'm this deep into the clutch area. seals , etc.
There is a way to check the clutch wear with it in place (maybe too late for this)
Anyway, beside the slave and clutch you should replace release bearing and that little bearing on the clutch shaft (don't know the name).
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  #5  
Old 17th February 2010
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I'd just replace the clutch while you're there. Other things to replace are the pilot bearing, the crank seal (behind the flywheel) and the clutch shaft (input shaft) seal on the transmission located behind the slave cylinder.
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  #6  
Old 18th February 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoe View Post
the pilot bearing
Thats the name of it
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  #7  
Old 18th February 2010
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Yup. Just change everything, or plan on doing it all twice.
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  #8  
Old 18th February 2010
9004me 9004me is offline
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Default clutch input shaft seal

Can anyone tell me where this part is located on the Clutch Shaft:
http://www.thesaabsite.com/shop/sear...1=Start+Search
i.e. is it in front of or behind the flywheel..?
thanks ...
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  #9  
Old 18th February 2010
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It goes in the back of the primary shaft housing and is visible once you remove the slave assembly. It stops oil leaking down the clutch shaft from the primary case. Doesn't go anywhere near the flywheel.
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  #10  
Old 18th February 2010
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That's the info I was looking for.
I wasn't suggesting it went anywhere near the Flywheel,
I was prompting any replies to indicate the side of the flywheel it's located, front or behind.
Thanks a lot.

Last edited by 9004me; 18th February 2010 at 08:33 AM.
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  #11  
Old 18th February 2010
cromero cromero is offline
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alright, just placed the order for the 7 piece clutch kit, the spacer tool and the behind the flywheel seal. Now that leads me to other questions.

i'm certain i will get some oil/grease on the fly wheel, what's best to clean it with hindering it dueing operation?

also, the whole area down there needs cleaning, is there a good way /solvent?

what part of bently covers the removal and instalation?

and do i need any special lubricants or any other special tools?

i have 3 days until the parts arrive.

is there anyone out there that knows where the directions are out there for compressing the new cover plate tines for installing the spacer? i can remember seeing a picture on this site of a guy on a concrete porch area using a 2x4 board and his body weight to compress unit.

and lastly, is there anyone knowledgeable out there that's willing to take a phone call on the topic?

thanks again, this site and its users rock.
chris
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  #12  
Old 18th February 2010
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I normally use a water soluble engine degreaser such as gunk to clean areas like that and cellulose thinners or dry cleaning fluid to clean flywheel friction surfaces. Work the engine degreaser well in with a stiff brush and hose off with water. There are no scary moments replacing the clutch. This is a good thread to follow by Matthew; http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=35662
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  #13  
Old 18th February 2010
cromero cromero is offline
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another question. i just removed the flywheel. the bearing pressed on the flywheel, is that what is refered to as the pilot bearing?. if it is, mine is certainly shot. missing 2 or so ball.

need to know this quick. if it's not the pilot bearing i need to append my current order.

thanks
chris
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  #14  
Old 18th February 2010
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Yes. The Saab part no is 8346868 for reference.
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  #15  
Old 18th February 2010
cromero cromero is offline
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PEVA, thanks i feel better now.

very good. it comes with the clutch kit i'm purchasing.

do you know whether it comse out towards the slave valve or towards the engine block. i curently have the fly wheel removed.

also how do you, reccommend springing the cover plate for installing? bently referencres using a vice like press but my is not big enough.

i just tried to compressing the old one using my hydraulic jack and a jeep as a stop. believe it or not, the jeep raised before the tines were sprung in enough. go figure.

chris
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  #16  
Old 18th February 2010
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Comes out forward towards the slave. Surprised you've got the clutch off without the spacer ring installed. You normally put the spacer ring in before removal by depressing the clutch and then take it out after reassembly. I've heard some people jack the front wheel and let it down on it with a suitable spacer to compress the fingers and then put the spacer in. I think the Saab should be heavy enough at the front. Someone else might come up with a better solution.
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  #17  
Old 18th February 2010
cghag1 cghag1 is offline
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Just yesterday I installed the spacer ring in my clutch pressure plate prior to putting everything back in the car. I used a floor mounted drill press to depress the fingers. Well, I actually had a round piece of steel that was a good size to cover the finger tips, and brought the drill press chuck down on that piece of steel. Worked like a champ.
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  #18  
Old 18th February 2010
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Cool.
Whatever works, right?

I used a car jack and an oil filter socket to squeeze mine down.
The ring tool from eeuroparts is crap, so I made my own for $3 from a piece of 1/8" square stock from OSH.
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  #19  
Old 18th February 2010
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Has anyone mounted it to the flywheel and used a large 3/4 inch diameter bolt/nut through something like a 1/4 inch thick steel disc to compress the spring? I've been trying to think of a simple way to do this as well, so far that's the best I've been able to think of but haven't tried it yet.
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  #20  
Old 18th February 2010
cromero cromero is offline
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i'm seeing some ideas i may use. i'll first try it on the old plate in case it fails. thanks for the ideas.

chris.
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