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| Saab 9-5 Workshop Saab 9-5 Workshop (1997 to 2010) Technical Forum |
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#1
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So I bought the "damaged bolt removal kit".. but it didnt really work... so I had to drill a hole till it was close to the point well I actually can literally take them off from the oil pan. so the plug is off, FINALLY
But here's the problem, AGAIN. I went to every auto part stores to find the saab 9-5 drain plug, but I couldnt find one in any of them(yes this town SUCKS). Real f-ed up situation. I guess that GM backing up caused a lot of pain in saab parts. Is there equivalent plug bolt that I can use for my 9-5? I need it soon otherwise I will be bus.ing. Will be pain in the a-- in this weather. |
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#2
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Thread size is m14-1.5, doesn't matter what the head size is.
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#3
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I just went and got an identical bolt from a hardware store. easy to find, just know the thread size on it (i don't remember the measurement), and you can get it from anywhere really.
I definitely reccommend getting a LARGER head with the bolt. look for something around 16-17mm. it will be a whole lot easier to get off. oh and i should mention, the original bolt thats on there is actually 1/2 inch. not 13mm. that equates to something around 12.6-12.7 mm i believe, but if its already in bad shape, it could cause a problem trying to get it off. i cant believe that bolt remover kit didnt work! my bolt was very tight, i cant even imagine how bad yours mustve been...
__________________
One thing about deer: They have good vision. One thing about me: I'm better at hiding than they are at vision. |
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#4
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Quote:
tell me about it. it's like freaking welded to the oil pan. is it even possible that the bolt might've melt a little and when the engine cooled down and self welded to the oil pan? if that's so...... I will have to take down the oil pan and check if there's any damages |
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#5
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i sincerely doubt it. i don't really know how it could get even NEAR that hot down there.
if anything, the copper washer may have somehow stuck, but again i don't know how it could be possible that anything would melt to it. I dont know what temp you need to weld, but i know its VERY high. probably something around 2000-5000 degrees, if not more.
__________________
One thing about deer: They have good vision. One thing about me: I'm better at hiding than they are at vision. |
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#6
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ya that's what i thought too. well it off now. and new bolt with BIG head is now sitting in. Im thinking to buy that fumoto drain plug. has anyone used it before? it seems cool, but it might stick out little longer than bolt types... hope that doesn't cause any problems.
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#7
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I buy 2 to 3 drainplugs at a time from eeuroports along with copper washers.
The best wrench is 1/2 box end wrench. I also us a 1/2 impact socket on an electric impact wrench. MAKE SURE THE WRENCH IS SET TO COUNTER CLOCKWISE!! I tighten by hand. |
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#8
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[QUOTE I tighten by hand.[/QUOTE]
A very good advice for all fasteners. Make sure that the thread feed in properly before putting a wrench or spanner to it. A vice grip is also a useful tool to have to remove a worned out drain plug head. |
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#9
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so ya my oil change job took me freaking 2hrs, some for buying stuff tho 10min job becomine 2hr job isn't so fun. but seeing that my 9-5 is now going smoother than ever, my soar arm and freaking tiredness is worth it.
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#10
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I hope you put a new copper washer on with the new bolt or you can look forward to all that fun next oil change
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#11
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Quote:
__________________
One thing about deer: They have good vision. One thing about me: I'm better at hiding than they are at vision. |
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#12
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The stock bolt is actually metric but the best fit is 1/2". I ended up using a pipe wrench with a long pipe over the handle to crack the bolt.
Torque it up to the correct figure afterwards and you shouldn't have a further problem (new washer of course). |
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#13
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I did and I love it.
It does not stick out that much further, and with a calculated 1/4 turn more you can get the actuator (to open the drain) , up and out of the way from anything remotely coming close to the bottom sump casting. Regards, Quote:
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