|
|
|
|||||||
| Register | Garage | Photo Gallery | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Auto Escrow | Auto Loans | Insurance |
| Saab 9-5 Performance, Mods & Tuning Covers Tuning & Performance modifications for the Saab 9-5 |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
I will need new front struts in the Spring and the rear shocks are approaching end of life too (will have 70K of their proven 100K life consumed by spring). So I figure I may as well do both the front and rear at the same time.
This is for a 9-5 base model so the Road Holding Kit would be an upgrade - springs, sway bars, and dampers. I could buy either Bilstein or Koni dampers only, but the cost of these dampers alone is surprisingly close to the cost of the entire SAAB kit! Maybe even more money for the Koni's. Has anyone installed this kit? Are you satisfied or disappointed with your choice? Last edited by MI-Roger; 11-12-09 at 07:01 AM. |
| Sponsored Links | ||
Advertisement | ||
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
I installed the kit on my '01 wagon a few years back.
The rear shocks were complete garbage. They were softer than the KYB shocks I took off, and after a year were completely trashed and leaking oil. I put the KYBs back on and now after another 65k km (85k km total) they are getting thrashed too. Rear shocks are the weak point. On the wagon, the rear was lowered too much. I used a 1cm spacer to get it closer to where I thought it should be. May not be a problem with a sedan. The bars are a nice upgrade, and the ride doesn't suffer much and is more controlled than stock LPT - we have terrible roads and the car rides much smoother and quieter than my '05 Aero. Rear bar is easy to install. Front bar is painful - do it with the struts out for more clearance. Super careful not to break the (unique, high-strength) swaybar bushing bolts. Drop rear of subframe, disconnect engine mount, etc. Good half day of work. Start with PB Blaster on sway bar bolts every day for a week. Replace the sway bar links at the same time. Moog links are heavier and have a grease fitting - may last longer. Oh yeah, and you need an alignment right away when done. Have rear hub shims on hand - you are lowering the car which will add negative camber. You can measure camber and add appropriate shims at home before going to the alignment shop. |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
On my old Gary Fisher I put Monroe's on it with no issues at all. I think I paid around 60 a piece for them.
|
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
Bilsteins and koni's are very nice and yes you would probably pay $800-$1000 just for those. the roadholding kit is not that aggressive and you would do fine with KYB gr2's or Monroe sensatracs. both of these shocks will last 100k+ and provide a fine ride and good enough dampening for that kit.
Now if you went with more aggressive lowered spring then you might need the konis or Bilsteins. |
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|