Help! 2001 Saab 9-5 V6 3.0 Stalling Randomly!

[vintage1990]

Alright guys, here's the deal:

I have searched and have found some useful data but have tried it all and nothing has worked so I figured I'd toss it out to all of you.

I bought my 01 9-5 in March of 2008 with 135k miles on it. It now has 142k. This is my first saab, previously I have driven VW's. It has been reliable and comfortable for me up until about a month ago. I was driving home from work going around 75mph and the engine just shut down. I had been driving about 20miles. I coasted to the side of the road and stopped. I started the car and drove another minute or so and it did the same thing. I had it towed to a garage that specializes in european autos and they said there were no codes and they drove it twice separately and it ran fine for them.

It did the same thing the following week. I brought it back and they replaced the oxygen sensor. I got it back and it ran fine for a week or so and then it did it again. This time, the CEL came on. I went to autozone and it had two codes p1300 and p0134. I cleared them both and they haven't come back since.

I replaced the CPS on Saturday along with a new set of plugs. I drove it 30 miles and it was fine. On Sunday, I was backing out of my driveway and did it again. This is the first time it has done it at a low speed or immediately after starting cold. I am now avoiding using the car at all costs as I am afraid it is going to strand me.

I had the battery tested and it was fine.

When I turn the key on, I can hear the fuel pump pressurizing so I know it's not the fuel pump.

I spoke with a Saab tech today and he ran my VIN and told me that the DIC was replaced in 2005 at 90K miles and the timing belt was done at 60K.

I find it hard to believe that the DIC could fail in 55k miles.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing these problems? I've already thrown $300+ at it and am no closer to a reliable vehicle than I was a month ago.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

-Benjamin/NH

[raquettelaker2]

Check your turbo bypass valve. It's a little black plastic valve that says BOSCH all over it toward the front driver side of the engine bay. You're going to want to pull (or cut) the small vacuum hose off the top of the valve, and attach a clean piece of vacuum hose to it, and try sucking on it like a straw. If the diaphragm is ripped you will be able to pull air through it. This can throw the P1300 code and cause your car to stall. Inspect all vacuum hoses in and around the turbo and throttle body. Also, check the intake tube that runs from the intercooler to the throttle body. It's not unheard of them to crack or rip. The engine moves back and forth on the mounts so at just the right position the crack could open enough to confuse the engine and shut it off, throwing a code. Please keep us updated!

[pegasus50]

Good Stuff! My 9-5 stalled recently and I've been dealing with my own crisis of confidence. Please update this thread when you complete the experiment I'll going out to parking lot right now to try it myself.

[pegasus50]

Although my bay looks almost exactly like yours... my 1999 9-5 is configged differently. I can't find the valve. Does an LPT even have one?

[raquettelaker2]

Originally Posted by pegasus50

Although my bay looks almost exactly like yours... my 1999 9-5 is configged differently. I can't find the valve. Does an LPT even have one?

All 9-5's have them, no matter what (not sure about diesels actually). You're right though actually, I forgot that on the 1999's and most 2000's the valve is actually located on the underside of the intake tube. So from where it is in my last picture, if you look about 12" to the right, and then down (toward the ground) 6" you'll find your BPV.

[saab9-5]

When I turn the key on, I can hear the fuel pump pressurizing so I know it's not the fuel pump.

Actually I had a similar problem and was the fuel pump. Sometimes the pump will start failing randomly until it dies completely. I also suspect its the fuel pump because it didn't generate any codes.

Please update us on the issue

[jlthunder]

Originally Posted by vintage1990

Alright guys, here's the deal:

II spoke with a Saab tech today and he ran my VIN and told me that the DIC was replaced in 2005 at 90K miles and the timing belt was done at 60K.

.

-Benjamin/NH

Replace that timing belt now if it was not done at 120K along with the tensioner, pulley and water pump(Thermostat too). You are running on borrowed time. If that belt breaks, you will have a very expensive paperweight since these are interference engines and it will be cheaper to buy another car than repair the damage of a broken timing belt at your mileage.

There is pleanty of info on the V6 on this site. Please take the time to read it.

[VTwagon]

second timing belt may not have been done by a dealer. We had ours done at the Indie. Do you have records, or can you call seller to find out if it was done. Jlthunder is right though. If it hasn't been relaced that needs to be done before you drive it again.

[raquettelaker2]

Originally Posted by VTwagon

second timing belt may not have been done by a dealer. We had ours done at the Indie. Do you have records, or can you call seller to find out if it was done. Jlthunder is right though. If it hasn't been relaced that needs to be done before you drive it again.

+1,000,000

You don't want to $#%* around with the timing belt and its associated tensioners and pulleys. This should be explanation enough:

[MKB707]

My girlfriend called me this morning and said her car was running a little rough at highway speed. She pulled over and shut it off but when she started driving again ti was fine. I did notice that the line from the bypass valve is baked on, I couldn't even get it off when I was trying to get to the turbo. At the time I didn't know that it was to the bypass valve and actually just realized it while reading this thread. I am just wondering can I replace it with the typical hose that you would get at the parts store? Or does it need to be some particular type of hose? I am going to try and replace the plugs asap and check the bypass valve. Thanks.

[MKB707]

Wow I was doing a little more reading and my oil leak might be coming from the cps? I haven't had the time but have posted many threads here and got a lot of info (big time thank you to everyone that has helped), I even pulled a turbo from a saab at the junk yard (it isn't in good shape but for $30 I couldn't pass it up). I tried to move everything out of the way just to see where the leak was coming from but got frustrated just trying to figure out how everything goes together. After pulling the junk yard turbo I have a way better idea of how to get to everything (pulling the turbo wasn't as bad as I thought it would be the only hard part was the bolt by the dipstick). So my leak is most likely coming from the CPS or the block off plate for the NA oil filter. After searching for info on the CPS I finally found the thread about the O ring in the block off plate! I have been searching for it for a while and had no luck. Here it is:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=136166

[MKB707]

Does anyone have experience with these sensors? The OEM ones are $75 but these are $50 from rockauto and I have always had good luck with them I am just wondering about the quality of these brands:
2002 SAAB 9-5 ARC 3.0L 2961cc V6 FI Turbo (Z) [B308E] DOHC : Engine : Crankshaft Position Sensor WikiPriceBECK/ARNLEY Part # 1800434

$46.79Add to Cart STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PC433 Intermotor

$55.79Add to Cart AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 5S1888 {#9185232, 9195885, SU5355}

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