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  #1  
Old 29-04-09
fusionrx fusionrx is offline
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Default What does 97H and 97V ratings mean on tires? and tire recommendation question.

Looking at replacing my Nokian WRG2's, due to excessive tire wear, all 4 down to 4/32nds in 23 000 miles. (wheels are aligned and balanced, no cupping just really fast wearing). Nokian has acknowledged that this is excessive wear and is prorating me 50% of the cost of a new set of tires.

I have the 97H rated tires. I know that there is a 97V rated version of the same tire (I love their performance!). Will the 97V last me any longer? This is my daily driver/commuter/kid hauler. I don't drive it agressively, and its not tuned (other than the SOC 00 ECU 30HP upgrade: 200hp total from 170hp).

Otherwise, what are other alternative tire recommendations.

My criteria that I need to look at:
Must be ALL Season, with good winter performance. I don't want to run dedicated winter tires (I do this already on my wagon, I don't have the space for another set of tires!)
Good tread life: I'd expect ~50, 000 miles from my tires.
Relatively quiet: My old Nokians are now starting to get noisy.
Cost: looking for something no more than what I am spending currently (~$150/tire, mounted).

Thanks!
Thoughts?
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  #2  
Old 29-04-09
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They are going to give you money to buy another brand?

Either way, Saabs should be running on a V rated tire ... both because of the potential of the car and because of the weight of the car.
V rated tend to have stronger side walls which you need.
In some countries it is law that you replace tires with ones rated by the manufacturer for the car.

Have a look at the tire thread in the lounge ... you will be able to read a lot of reviews there.
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  #3  
Old 29-04-09
fusionrx fusionrx is offline
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My mechanics shop has the relationship with Nokian. They get the money from Nokian so to them, it doesn't matter who I choose, since it is the shop (not Nokian) that is give me the pro-rate discount.

I'd like to stay with Nokian if at all possible. I just don't want to be in the same boat in 25 000 miles from now.
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Last edited by fusionrx; 29-04-09 at 11:02 AM. Reason: Holy bad grammar Batman!
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  #4  
Old 29-04-09
fusionrx fusionrx is offline
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Default Can someone translate the various ratings?

What does the 91/97/101 etc. numbers mean?

What do the H/V/XL etc ratings mean?

Looking to better understand this stuff.

Looked that tire review section in the lounge and also was wondering what the treadewear warrantly: section translates too? Some people put down mileage and others put down 400 AA or 520 or ....

Help enlighten me.
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Old 29-04-09
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Number (93/97/etc.) corresponds to load limits on the tire (weight)

Letter (H, V, Z, etc.) corresponds to speed limit for the tire.

Check out www.tirerack.com , they have excellent explanations for all these markings.
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  #6  
Old 29-04-09
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My criteria that I need to look at:
Must be ALL Season, with good winter performance.

In Wisconsin, really the Nokians are your best option if you can't run dedicated winter tires.

Good tread life: I'd expect ~50, 000 miles from my tires.

Well, you got 25,000 miles and only paid for 50% of the Nokians....
They ARE supposed to last 50k miles though.

Relatively quiet: My old Nokians are now starting to get noisy.

Any tire with only 4/32 tread left will be noisy.

I suppose you could try running the dedicated winters on the sedan and try the Nokians on the wagon (does it get used less)? Although likely an SE (V6?) wagon will be harder on tires than a 4-cyl sedan.
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Old 29-04-09
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As previously mentioned, the letter simply denotes the maximum speed at which the tire is safe. If you don't drive your car as if you were Michael Schumacher, an all-season touring tire is going to be your best bet. Dunlop's SP Sport Signature, Kumho's Ecsta LX Platinum, or Michelin's Primacy MXV4 VR would all likely fit the bill.

However
, none of them will perform as well as Nokians in the winter. They may get you through the first couple light snows of the season, but I wouldn't expect any more than that. Even if you find cheap 15" steelies and run cheapo Hankook snow tires, you'll still fare better than with any all-season tire. I had Continental's Contiextreme Contact all-seasons (top-rated all season for snow) on my 850. It was nerve wracking to drive when the white stuff fell. Switching to cheapo Hankook snow tires on 15" wheels at lower pressures (~32 psi) made a huge difference. This was not in Texas, just in case you were wondering...
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Old 29-04-09
fusionrx fusionrx is offline
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Ok. Call me confused now.

Looking more in depth at the car performance charts and such for the Nokians, heres what I can take away from this.

For my car I run a 215 55 r16.

Speed rating: V-149mph, H-130
Load rating:97 1609lbs or 730kg.
Tread life guarentees:
30/35/40/45/50 Series - 50,000km (30 000 miles).
60/65/70 Series - 100,000km (60000 miles)
55 Series V Rated - 50,000 km (30000 miles)
55 Series H Rated 100,000km (60000 miles)

So given what has been said, I should get a sidewall that is stiffer (V-rated). Also give 4 people in the car adds an additional 500lbs, should I be looking at a tire with higher load rating??

That being said on standard 16 Saab rim, can I run something other than a 215 55 r16? Like a 215 60 r16 97V?

Help... the numbers.... !!!
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Old 30-04-09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fusionrx View Post
Tread life guarentees:
30/35/40/45/50 Series - 50,000km (30 000 miles).
60/65/70 Series - 100,000km (60000 miles)
55 Series V Rated - 50,000 km (30000 miles)
55 Series H Rated 100,000km (60000 miles)
I have never seen a tread life guarantee in the UK, especially dependent on sidewall depth/speed ratings!

Tyre life is dependent on 3 things, what axel the tyres are mounted on, how you drive and the compound of the rubber.
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Old 30-04-09
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My Mich's are half worn on front at 8k and my Contis lasted 12 but my P6000 on my 150BHP lasted 20k

I think that bascially if you drive hard they they will not last but will grip!
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  #11  
Old 30-04-09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fusionrx View Post
Ok. Call me confused now.

Looking more in depth at the car performance charts and such for the Nokians, heres what I can take away from this.

For my car I run a 215 55 r16.

Speed rating: V-149mph, H-130
Load rating:97 1609lbs or 730kg.
Tread life guarentees:
30/35/40/45/50 Series - 50,000km (30 000 miles).
60/65/70 Series - 100,000km (60000 miles)
55 Series V Rated - 50,000 km (30000 miles)
55 Series H Rated 100,000km (60000 miles)

So given what has been said, I should get a sidewall that is stiffer (V-rated). Also give 4 people in the car adds an additional 500lbs, should I be looking at a tire with higher load rating??

That being said on standard 16 Saab rim, can I run something other than a 215 55 r16? Like a 215 60 r16 97V?

Help... the numbers.... !!!
the term 'series' refers to the middle number in the tire size. in your case, '55'. That number describes how tall the sidewall of your tire is. In your case, 55% of 215mm (recognize that number? it's the width of your tire tread).

Also keep in mind - the load rating is for that single tire. You'll have four tires, each rated for that amount of weight, meaning that a full set of those 97-rated tires can handle over 6,400 lbs! 97 is a HUGE rating for an average passenger car.

Since your old tires were the h-rated set, and they are 55 series, that means they have the 60,000 mile warranty.


While I'm going off here, I might as well answer your original question about whether the v-rated ones will last longer. There was another set of numbers and letters you mentioned... 400 AA. In this case, the number 400 is a figure that represents the relative longevity of the tire. It's not an objective number corresponding to an actual number of miles, but it's useful for determining the relative longevity between tires of the same manufacturer. So, if your original tires have '400 A A' stamped on them, and the v-rated version of the same tire has '300 A A' on them, then you can expect to get about 25% fewer miles out of the v-rated version.


Oh, and you had that last question about putting a different size tire on your rim. The short answer is 'yes', but with qualifications. Your example was 215/60/r16. In this case, that tire would fit on your rim (because it's r16), but it would be a taller tire (because the sidewall height is now 60% of the width, instead of 55% of the width). Taller sidewall means it makes a bigger circle, and therefore has a larger rolling diameter. This also means that for every revolution it makes, you'll have gone slightly farther than you would have on one revolution of your older tire. A side product of this is that your speedometer and odometer will be incorrect by this amount.

Generally, if you want to change tire sizes, you'd have to change the sidewall height and the width so that the rolling diameter stays as close to possible to the original tire. Here's a tool that helps you figure out what works well:

1010tire.com tire size calculator

It lets you compare the diameter of different tire sizes you're considering.


Anyway, I gave you quite a bit here; I'll let you digest it for a bit, and feel free to ask any more questions! Best of luck!
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