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Old 28th April 2009
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Default 9-5 clutch replacement procedure

I searched and couldn't find any info on replacing the clutch. I have a 2000 Aero and was wondering if it's similar to the 9000?

Also, has anyone ever rebuilt a manual transmission? I think I may have to do the upgrade kit and was wondering how bad the job is....
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Old 28th April 2009
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I looked it up in the WIS, 54 steps to remove the transmission (a ton of stuff has to come out, including the subframe), about 30 in replacing the clutch, and another 68 to refit the trans. Also required is a whole pile of special tools and a lot of adjustment/calibrating. Its the only thing on my car that I wouldn't feel like I could do. Sounds like it really needs an entire shop, Mechanic quoted me about a grand for the job. I don't have a grand, so I'll be waiting...
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Old 28th April 2009
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Could you post that link? If it's anything like the 9000, it's not too hard. I've done 3 of them.
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Old 29th April 2009
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check your pms
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Well....the car is apart. Time for that T5!
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  #5  
Old 7th June 2009
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Hi, is it possible you could PM me that trans/clutch R&R info as well please? I'm new here, looking for help/info on replacing the clutch on my buddies car. I'm trying to help him out because he's a musician
& low on $$(Saab story hehe).

I do have experience with other cars, mostly VW/Audi /BMW but have not done a clutch on a 9-5(it's a 1999 2.3T, 5spd BTW). I really hope not but it looks like the subframe needs to come out? Any BTDT's?
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Old 7th June 2009
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Yes, the subframe comes out and be thankful. It makes things much easier.
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Old 7th June 2009
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I've been wading through the WIS too. I will be clutch changing soon but I don't think I will have the time to write a guide, though I don't believe much of the kit involved is exceptional.

Does the Haynes manual cover clutch swap?
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Old 7th June 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmtinker View Post
Yes, the subframe comes out and be thankful. It makes things much easier.
I can see how it would be easier and not unpossible(lol)! But also the subframe looks to have a lot of other items attached to it . It's not like an old Audi, 4 bolts and you're done . If only that one leg of the subfr. was removable I know I could rotate the trans enough to get it out with the s.frame still in .....

Does the clutch need an alignment tool to line up the disc like some other Auto makes? If so, do the clutch kits usually come with the tool?
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Old 8th June 2009
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Does anybody have any leads on flywheel bolts, the rear engine/transmission mount and a clutch alignment tool? The p/n for the clutch tool is 87 92 327. I'm assuming the parts are dealer items and maybe the tool as well but if anyone knows better it would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 8th June 2009
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1. Rip entire front of the car apart.
2. Replace clutch.
3. Reassemble front end.
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Old 8th June 2009
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Originally Posted by Alloutofdonuts View Post
Does anybody have any leads on flywheel bolts, the rear engine/transmission mount and a clutch alignment tool? The p/n for the clutch tool is 87 92 327. I'm assuming the parts are dealer items and maybe the tool as well but if anyone knows better it would be greatly appreciated!
Clutch alignment tool, should you need one, is generic.

There is a special Saab tool for holding the radiator in place too, this is actually a ratchet strap.

There is a special guide tool for getting the transmission on and off, these are little more than some cut off bolts.

Why the concern about the flywheel bolts? If they've had studlock on the originals then clean off the old stuff and apply new.

There is also a flywheel lock but you can if you're clever [or daft perhaps ] hold the crank still from the front bolt.

See what I mean? Bolts with their head sawn off is a special tool...

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  #12  
Old 11th June 2009
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After a cleanup with the scotch wheel it looks like the FW is fine, so no need to turn it. Thanks for the tip on the bolts though, I just assumed they would need to be replaced.

After waiting a few days on parts, now I get to wait some more until I can get a dowel for the disc !!! Hopefully _if_ they have one, the dealer won't put it to me too much. Checked the flaps and no listing for one.
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Old 11th June 2009
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There is also a flywheel lock but you can if you're clever [or daft perhaps ]...
Considering I'm from the US....it would be daft lol . Thanks for the help!
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  #14  
Old 12th June 2009
Alloutofdonuts Alloutofdonuts is offline
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Well the disc alignment dowel is proving to be elusive , the dealership claims it will take 2 weeks to get! Plus they wanted upfront payment but couldn't give me the price...huh? Sounds like the parts guy had better stuff to do! I usually get the tool with the kit but not this time. I don't imagine there's anyone in the US that would happen to have one that would be so kind as to lend, rent, or sell it to me??

One of the dowels that I have, the tip fits into the FW but the splines are off, and so is the disc ...

Last edited by Alloutofdonuts; 12th June 2009 at 11:27 AM.
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  #15  
Old 14th June 2009
Alloutofdonuts Alloutofdonuts is offline
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In case anyone else has a hard time finding the alignment tool; an extra deep(approx. ~3" long), 1/2" drive, 9/16", 6 point(NOT 12 point) socket worked perfect with a 6", 1/2" drive extension!
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Old 14th June 2009
Alloutofdonuts Alloutofdonuts is offline
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Would anyone be so kind as to tell me the torq spec for the outer axle(nut)??? Somewhere around 150ft lbs?

Got the car all back together, turn the key, it runs for about 1.5-2 seconds thne nothing. Now it doesn't start.

Is it possible something to do with the clutch R&R caused this(or me ) or did my knob of a friend run it out of gas as well?

EDIT: Let it sit, and it started after a little bit, but better news is the clutch works again!! Even after I had forgotten to bleed the new slave before the trans went back in. I had an 'oh ****s' moment, but after reading a thread on here I got it bled and hopefully I'll never see this car again!!

Thanks for all the help!!!

EDit #2: Also just remembered that this isn't my thread but I'm not going to start a new thread on it at this point. So, sorry for the threadjack, but thanks for the help! I'll stick to the 96 from now on lol!!!

Last edited by Alloutofdonuts; 15th June 2009 at 09:37 AM. Reason: buh...snuh!
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  #17  
Old 19th June 2009
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Just a question, when I have the tranny out, would that be a good time to drop the oil pan and clean out the sump? I would think it would be easier then.
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  #18  
Old 21st June 2009
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and another question....can I make my own guide pins? Does anyone know the pitch and thread count?
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Old 21st June 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmtinker View Post
and another question....can I make my own guide pins? Does anyone know the pitch and thread count?
Don't bother, they create more trouble than they are worth. I finally fitted an Aero clutch today and I ended up ignoring a chunk of the WIS instructions as they are not viable without the full kit.

Sorry no real pictures but here's my run down.

Battery and engine covers off.
Battery, grille and battery tray out.
Raise car and remove road wheels; support with axle stands on the main chassis rails just behind the rearmost subframe point.
Take off all those underside plastic baffles.
Engage 4th gear use a 3mm allen key to jam gearbox in 4th then slacken off the gear selector clamp and move gear stick to 3rd [thus separating linkage] and with a 3mm allen key lock gearstick in 3rd position [move aside gear stick gaiter for this].
Clamp hydraulic hose and unclip union from clutch hose to slave cylinder feed.
Disconnect electrical connections from transmission [3 on mine].
Disconnect from harness the lambda sensor and then remove front exhaust section.
Remove bolt from gear selector shaft to transmission and wiggle the selector mechanism free, it will hang off one more connection.
Undo nut on rear engine mount.
Raise engine relative to car [I do not have a proper engine bar so I used my engine hoist throughout].
Unbolt rear engine mount from transmission case [3 bolts] and withdraw - selector linkage will come with it.
Unbolt lower torque arm from subframe.
Unbolt steering rack.
Unclip aircon pipes from subframe.
Undo the 3 nuts that can be seen holding the PAS pipe to the subframe and the 2 nuts that go with the air filter box.
Unbolt the oil cooler and leave aside.
Lash the cluster of heat exchangers at the front to the front upper slam panel.
The Saab manual says to use a long extension and some sort of UJ or wiggle joint to undo the 3 bolts securing the rear engine pad to the subframe working from the top of the engine bay; this is tosh, I spent over an hour floundering trying to make their suggestion work. I then went under the car and with a 10mm long series socket [3/8" drive], a 3" extension and a simple ratchet I got then all undone in minutes. The rearmost did require heat applied to the subframe first, it was totally recalcitrant.
Disconnect steering ball joints, anti roll bar drop links and steering ball joints.
Undo all the rear subframe bolts with the extra bits.
Whilst underneath remove the rear flywheel dust cover.
Slacken the last 4 subframe bolts; provide support [I used 2 trolley jacks] undo the bolts and start to lower the subframe.
Once lowered a little this exposes a 4th securing point for the PAS pipe, it is under the aircon pump, undo it and lower fully.
Tie up the oil cooler.
Drop oil from the tranny.
Pop out the short shaft to the left hand hub and tie off out of the way.
Undo all the gearbox mounts that are under the battery tray.
Allow the engine assembly to tip aside to allow the gearbox to come away.
Undo the bolts holding the gearbox to block and wrestle the buggers apart.

Now you simple swap clutches. That 's the easy bit done. I was lucky, the flywheel side of the clutch though heavily worn was still good, it was the pressure plate side that was rogered. I was more than happy to mate up a new clutch to the discoloured but still sound, true and unscored flywheel.



It is the assembly where things went wrong for me.

I tried to copy the book. I had used 2 guide bolts as already discussed in this thread and I had left the intermediate shaft in situe - this was a mistake - I am quite capable of picking up and carrying one of these gearboxes, but lifting and aligning to 2 shafts, forget it. After 2 hours I was exhausted and exasperated.

I have done this before though and thinking back the difference was no guides and no intermediate shaft.

I set to work removing these obstacles.

Once aside I re-lifted the gearbox [on 2 jacks] and got it close to situe. I reached in through the top and offered the box to the clutch and within 10 seconds it was on. Another minute and I had got 2 bolts lightly nipped up.

Largely it was assemble as the reverse of the disassembly.

I had spent a lot of time dismantling trying to free up seized bolts, my car is an MY2000 so it is just about a decade old and they are becoming a issue. So part of the assembly regime was thread cleaning/chasing. I used very conservative amounts of copper grease on any bolts that gave me grief too.

Loosen the tranny oil plugs before you refit.

I had to bleed the clutch for it to work well, I used Gunson Eazi-Bleed at 22Psi.

The car went well first time, though I have a slight selection issue into 5th now, I will need to tweak the selector alignment.

The job requires few special tools unless you are following the Saab workshop guide. It is mostly about lifting, securing and a good range of sockets and spanners in odd-ball sizes. 15, 16,18mm for example.

One nice bit from the WIS was to do with tightening the engine mounts, when they are nipped up the lower torque arm will be under stress. When I checked, by loosening, it did indeed re-seat and allowed the engine to drop slightly.

All the hassle I had with reluctant to undo bolts and baffling method meant I took 13 hours to do something that should have been no more than 8.

Some pictures...

Stuffed clutch.



Just some of the stuff needed to be removed...



The good side of the ruined clutch Vs. A new Aero clutch plate...



Just checking fit. Note engine propped by a stand as well as a crane above. Also see above the left of the flywheel my home made guide bolts and the intermediate shaft is still there...



Centred up ready to build...



Got there in the end, this is late Saturday about to offer up the subframe...



If you have the time there is tons of other things you can do whilst the gearbox/subframe is off.

Drop/check & clean sump.

Front bushes and ARB [I replaced a drop link during this job].

3" downpipe.

New turbo.

Visual in depth inspection and corrosion protection work.
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  #20  
Old 21st June 2009
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Thanks for all the details there. I'm about to do this job. I have a new transmission going in with an lsd as well. I have no engine hoist. Is it absolutely necessary to drop that subframe? It looks like there is good space in there with the exhaust out
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