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| Classic Saab 900 Workshop Classic Saab 900 (1979-1994) Technical Forum. |
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#1
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I contacted Bilsteincanada.com today and I can get another rear shock for the back of my saab since one of mine are squeaking. They are located in BC but I would like to see if there is another dealer that is closer to me in Ontario. Does anybody know of a dealer?
Thanks, Dennis |
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#2
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Shocks must always be replaced in pairs.
And you might not need to replace them if they are squeaking. Are they still working otherwise? A couple of things can squeak in shocks, if they have a rose-joint on the end you can unbolt the end with the joint and roll it around with some grease. Nolathane type rubber joints squeak if they aren't greased. If the nolathane joint needs to rotate in any way you need to grease it when assembling it. Usually on the inside of the bush. the type of shock mounting that has two rubber washers don't need greasing. |
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#3
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The top of the shock is the double rubber type and the bottom is the type that the bolt goes through frm the side and it was greased with an anti seize grease.
It is working fine, but even the slightest movement like just getting in or out of the car makes it creek. There are times when it is raining that it stops for a while, then it just comes back. The shocks are 7 months old. Dennis |
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#4
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It may be hard to tell but is the squeak metal on metal or squeaky rubber?
can you see the chrome shaft on your shocks or are they protected by a shroud or boot? If it's the scraper seal squeaking on the shaft you may be able to shut it up with a small amount of hydraulic fluid (auto transmission fluid) smeared on the shaft and pumped by hand a few times. |
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#5
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When I used a Stethoscope to find out what was squeaking, it was the shock itself. The shock has a plastic boot/cover over the shaft and I would have to take it off to do what you have said. I will give it a try when the weather gets warmer, we just had snow today and high winds. The day before it was warm enough to ride a bike and enjoy it.
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#6
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When it warms up.....
Pull the shock off and pump it by hand... Easiest way is to find a shelf the right height or kneel in front of your workbench and push it upward. Testing is invalid if you have it upside down. Once it's out of the vehicle you should be able to see the shaft. a couple of drips on the shaft is all you need. Wipe any excess off afterward. When you put it back on make sure the tension on the rubber donuts at the top is about right. you want to compress them slightly but not crush them to death. And here I am removing the antifreeze from my cooling system and replacing it with straight water and rust inhibitor. No glycol. Mine gets too hot. |
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#7
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Thanks,
Dennis |
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