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| Saab 9-5 Workshop Saab 9-5 Workshop (1997 to 2010) Technical Forum |
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#1
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curious if anyone has done this? Hard to do? Tools needed? For the 99 9-5, 120k miles. Rear control arms bad to so maybe a day in the air needed?
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#2
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Just did the tranny mount and torque rod on my 2.3l.
Took a little longer as i cleaned up and painted my battery tray. Toughest part was to make sure the new mount lined up correctly. I found it hard to tell if the little alignment tabs went into the holes on the top of the tranny housing. Other than that, you need a torque wrench, jack to support the tranny, regular sockets and i think torx sockets. Sorry, can't remember sizes. |
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#3
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How long did it take you to do? Cost?
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#4
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Quote:
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#5
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It should not take more than 1 hour - an easy DIY. Check for some good instructions posted earlier.
I had to raise the transmission by 10 mm with the new mount in position to get the nut to catch the thread. Mine was in bad shape. I got the mount from Rockauto for around $ 80 - also called the rear engine mount. |
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#6
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ok, I am faster
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#7
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Which parts would I need to order? I'd like to do it all at one fell swoop...
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#8
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just go to eeuro and they have an engine mounts spot on their pull down menu...
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#9
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I am pretty sure my car is in need of this mount as well. For you guys who have done this, is it worth the time/effort/money? My mechanic thinks not.
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#10
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I think mine may need done also, How do you go about checking the mounts? Can they just be checked with a visual inspection?
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#11
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Metrognome, I just did mine about 3 4 months ago, thought it was tough but nothing that a keen DIYER cannot do. I am surprised your mechanics advised against it.
I changed all 4, the toughest was the rear hydraulic mount, but easier once you have had the right (under the engine yoke) and left hand (below the battery) done as it allows easier access to remove and install the rear mount. THe torque rod is not an issue to change at all, very accessible. Search for my posting titled engine mount 101 with pics to guide. The difference is significant, my rear view window used to rattle at low rpm now it does not nove at all. secondly, i can hear a clunk when i slowed down to a stop at junction or traffic light as the transmission drop down to lowest gear. Lesser vibration felt on the steering wheel. Plus you will realize how much the engine has drop due to worn mount and this put stress on some of the interconnecting parts especially with the engine vibration level being higher at low rpms. |
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#12
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#13
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I followed hiros' guide and it was right on the money. Excellent write up.
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#14
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Thanks, luv2drinkcoke. My main issue is vibration while in reverse and a pretty significant "clunk" when starting the car up. Sounds like it can get a lot worse though. I'll definitely consider redoing it, but it's not the highest item on the agenda at the moment.
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