"HOW TO" replace EVAP Purge Valve on 2.8T V6

Ferms_93_2.8T · Mar 26, 2009

Mods can this be stickied Please!!!!!! In the "How To" section ofcourse!

I went ahead and took pictures while I replaced the EVAP purge Valve solenoid last night. I figured since I haven't been the only one to do this repair I might as well make a "How To."

First off, the reason I replaced the EVAP Purge valve is because my car threw a P0496 Code. There was some talk about this in this recent thread: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123758&highlight=evap+purge . I posted some WIS instructions and a fellow SaabCentral Member did the repair and I finally ordered my part and followed suit.

The Purge Valve is listed as Part # 12593761 and the part that arrived at my house was a Bosch unit with #12611802 printed on it. YERASIMOS also had that experience in the aforementioned thread.

Tools needed:
-Fingers
-10mm Socket

Once I finished my Check engine light immediately disapeared. Others had the same experience.

Good Luck, and Remember: (*lame disclaimer*) This is a demonstration of my experiences and I cannot be held responsible for any problems or issues that arise if you attempt the repair.

Anyway, Now on to the How To part. I will post the WIS instructions and the Pictures that I took.

Now some pictures from my experience.

Part:

Step1. Remove the Upper Engine Cover

-Take the Oil fill cap off and the pull up on the Black plastic cover.

Ferms_93_2.8T · Mar 26, 2009

Step 2. Unplug the upper connector of the engine control module

-Push in the Black tab and then pull the metal lever across.

Step 3. Unplug the 7-pin connector

-Just pull the black tab over the clip and it will release. I was afraid to break it, but I didn't. I also removed the plug just above it.

Step 4. Remove the Nut and set cable-duct aside

-10mm socket

Step 5. Detach the brake vacuum hose from the intake manifold

-Just push in the little grey button and pull it off.

Step 6. Remove the bracket holding the crankcase ventilation pipes to the intake manifold (I removed the bolts, but never actually removed the bracket as it wasn't actually needed.

Step 7. Unplug the connector from the EVAP canister purge valve

Step 8. Detach the hoses from the valve (the on with the blue button is easy. The Black on is a little more difficult. There is a small tab that you need to rotate as you pull the hose off. You can practice on the vacuum hose that is close the the MAF right by the radiator. It looks exactly the same)

Step 9. Lift up on the bracket with the valve and detach the pipe (Again, didn't remove the bracket)

Step 10. Remove the valve from the bracket (Just simply wiggle it back and forth until it comes off.

To fit: Do everything in reverse. Pretty self explanatory.

BTW, when I reconnected the ECM Connector, the ECM made some crazy noises, But everything started up just fine.

mawingo · Mar 17, 2012

Ferms_93_2.8T said:
Step 5. Detach the brake vacuum hose from the intake manifold

-Just push in the little grey button and pull it off.

I ran into a problem here. My brake line broke, or had already broken based on the evidence of glue around the area circled in Yellow. This may have been the prior cause of my P2187 code. It came apart when I disconnected it, so I put a s$%^load of JB Weld on it to put it back together.

Step 8. Detach the hoses from the valve (the on with the blue button is easy. The Black on is a little more difficult. There is a small tab that you need to rotate as you pull the hose off. You can practice on the vacuum hose that is close the the MAF right by the radiator. It looks exactly the same)

The black one was a royal PITA. I finally was able to remove it after removing the valve from the bracket first so I could rotate it to an easier position to work with.

Thanks for the write up. Hopefully other V6 owners can check for that vacuum line break based on what I found ;ol;

Cosmicflash · Mar 26, 2009

OK so what does this valve do? And what exactly was the code description?

How many miles do you have on the V6?

Thanks!

Ferms_93_2.8T · Mar 27, 2009

The Code was P0496 and the code reader said "EVAP Emission High Purge Flow Fault". WIS says "Fault Criteria: Although the purge valve is closed, the tank pressure continues to fall. When the pressure has reached -1000 Pa in 4 s, a DTC is set.

I have almost 63K miles on my 93.I guess its not a big deal part, but I hate having the CEL on.

Basically, the EVAP canister collects gas vapors from the gas tank. It is a charcol canister and filters out hydrocarbons and then the purge valve cycles the left over vapors into the engine to burn off.

Or I'll let the WIS do the describing for me.

..

Cosmicflash · Mar 27, 2009

OK. Thanks for explaining.

I guess that is the same valve on the front of the 2.0 that can cause the CEL to come on. I think it was an "evaporative emissions leak" or something like that.

yerasimos · Mar 27, 2009

VERY well done, Ferms!

taekwone · Mar 30, 2009

anyone know how to replace them for 03 model?

@lice · Mar 30, 2009

Perfect How-to

I'd just add one thing- better disconnect battery before if you're going to unplug electrical connectors. Would be safer.

Hardeepone · Jan 23, 2011

THANKS A LOT!! This should be Sticky'd. I'll send a msg to the mods.

zdunham · Mar 1, 2011

Hi all. New to the forums and just started having this same problem. Might I ask where you ordered the purge valve from?

Ferms_93_2.8T · Mar 2, 2011

Ordered mine from www.saabparts.net click on the "oem parts catalog" at the top.

wildberrytalon · Mar 3, 2011

EVAP Purge Valve Replacement Issue on 06 9-3 AERO

So I had the code, bought the part and the install was going fine (I would say this was an excellent write up as the actual part install was easy).

However, when I went to pull the brake vacuum hose off. The little gray button gave me no problems, but the check valve nipple on the gray button side decided to break. By the way it happened, it was possible it was cracked already from previous work done or something. I just bought this car for my fiancee last year. I am wondering what the best thing to do is. I know I need the check valve in there, but it has a broken nipple. The break occurred right at the base. I live 2 hours from one SAAB dealer and 2 1/2 hours from another. So, it isn't feasable to take it in there. People in my area dont even know how to spell SAAB if you asked them. I was thinking about cutting the broke nipple and gray button loose from the hose. I hate to do it, but I am thinking about gluing the nipple back on the check valve. Use a new hose to connect the check valve to the gray button. Plug it in and see if it holds. This would only be a temporary fix, but I want to get feedback if anyone thinks this would actually hold up.

Also, does anyone know the part number for the brake vacuum hose or at least the check valve? I found a general use check valve at the parts store, but it has a very small opening on one side. I would prefer using the factory part.

limmerbr · Mar 3, 2011

i found this broken on my car when i did spark plugs.

it never gave me a check engine light while it was broken.

do yourself a favor and go get some jb weld and glue it back together. it worked for me and has been about a year now and the thing is better than new.

problem is that the thing comes to an elbow and due to stress on it, its going to crack or snap eventually. plus the heat on that engine is no help.

you can replace it, but the jb weld did the trick for me.

Ferms_93_2.8T · Mar 4, 2011

My check valve is also cracked in the same place as you guys. I just placed it backed together and put a little electrical tape around it to hold it in place. I asked on here for a part number but never really got an answer. I just need to go to the dealership and look at their diagrams for a number.

FYI that check valve is for the brake booster. If it is not connected it will cause a loss of brake feel, only on startup, as far as I know. You have probably read about people loosing brake feel in reverse after start up and I believe this check valve is one of the contributing factors to that.

I was having that brake problem and ever since I taped the hose back on to the check valve, I have NOT had the loss of brake feel.

If any of you figure out the part number, please post.

dzlsabe · Mar 4, 2011

With the engine running, purge valves can typically be felt "clicking" as they do their thing. The ones in earlier cars could almost always be coaxed back to life with a shot of WD40 in the tube and a couple of light wacks. Worth a try before investing a $100 for a new one?

limmerbr · Mar 4, 2011

the engine's heat is going to melt that electrical tape off.

i would suggest finding something more durable like the jb weld or another plastic adhesive.

zdunham · Mar 22, 2011

Hey Ferms, thanks a lot for the instructions. I successfully installed the purge valve myself with them and the light went off.

'97 Saab SE Turbo · Apr 5, 2011

According to the Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) it is the same part number 12593761 for the 2006-2010 B284 engines - dealer list price $100... Ron

wotan · May 6, 2011

I had the same code just show up. It seems crazy that there isn't a non-dealer source for this part.... I looked up what a 2.8L cadillac 6 uses (also LP9 block) and it uses GM #12591334.

This LOOKS like exactly the same part but has a bracket attached to it. Can someone who has replaced it give me their thoughts? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=903&partnum=5S8026&a=FR903-5S8026-570475

dzlsabe · May 11, 2011

12593761 now lists for nearly $150 and Im told are BOd. I ordered the 12591334 and it looks identical. Only difference are Bosch #s and GM #s on part are 12611801 not 12611802. Unfortunately I dont have a V6 to test it.

wotan · May 13, 2011

I'm going to change my feeling on this. I really thought that these two part numbers would be interchangable but if you google image search EVAP Purge Valve -- most of the results look identical. These must be very dependent on how much amperage it takes to operate them and I don't think they can be swapped. I'm still trying to see if I can make this work -- if I figure out a way, I'll report back.

wotan · May 12, 2011

I've got the 12591334 in my hand right now and I'm going to try it. Will report back in a few minutes.

wotan · May 12, 2011

The check engine light went off but as soon as the engine was cycled off and back on again it came back on. I haven't pulled the code (so it could be something else.)

The bad news? I'm now getting "STABILITY SYSTEM" and "TRACTION CONTROL" failure messages. Arggghhhh!

dzlsabe · May 16, 2011

All the pictures of 214-2137 dont even look like the right one. At least the 12591334 looks identical. Ill measure coil resistance when I get a chance. Are you sure the P0496 was the only code youre getting?

wotan · May 16, 2011

I don't think any of the photos of 214-2137 are actually that part -- I think every site that lists a picture of it are just using a photo of a "similar" part. I should have one in my hands shortly -- I'm going to check it out before I put it in and I'll let you know what it looks like.

If you can measure any differences between a GOOD 12611801 and a GOOD 12611802, that would be appreciated.

I only had P0496 before I put in the *801 part. Now I am seeing some other codes and some additional gremlins (my auto-up windows don't work, cruise control not working, etc.) It's turned into quite a nightmare but I think I'm going to address the original problem before I pay for a Tech II diagnosis.

wotan · May 18, 2011

Tonight I was working with my local indy mechanic to try and troubleshoot my car again. He doesn't have a Tech II but he's a good friend and was really stumped at the seemingly random codes and electrical problems I was experiencing.

Finally we decided it might be better to just try and find a new ECU since it seemed like mine had gremlins in it. We pulled the old one out and pretty quickly noticed that at least 10-12 of the pins were really badly bent. This was completely my fault and the first time I plugged my ECU in I didn't really understand how it worked. I bent the pins. I was able to straighten all of them but one (which broke off.) I'll make a new post but does anyone know what pin 31 does?? I'm getting no CEL or other codes and everything I've tried in the car seems to work. Weird!

(Also -- the substitute evap purge valve seems to work perfectly. It's $25 on Rock Auto vs. $160 at the saab dealer. I still have AC Delco 214-2137 and since it's coming anyway I figured I should at least look at it and report back. I'll update the thread again just so anyone running into this problem knows their options.)

SaabDrew · Jun 10, 2011

wotan said:
Tonight I was working with my local indy mechanic to try and troubleshoot my car again. He doesn't have a Tech II but he's a good friend and was really stumped at the seemingly random codes and electrical problems I was experiencing.

Finally we decided it might be better to just try and find a new ECU since it seemed like mine had gremlins in it. We pulled the old one out and pretty quickly noticed that at least 10-12 of the pins were really badly bent. This was completely my fault and the first time I plugged my ECU in I didn't really understand how it worked. I bent the pins. I was able to straighten all of them but one (which broke off.) I'll make a new post but does anyone know what pin 31 does?? I'm getting no CEL or other codes and everything I've tried in the car seems to work. Weird!

(Also -- the substitute evap purge valve seems to work perfectly. It's $25 on Rock Auto vs. $160 at the saab dealer. I still have AC Delco 214-2137 and since it's coming anyway I figured I should at least look at it and report back. I'll update the thread again just so anyone running into this problem knows their options.)

Did you ever find out if AC Delco 214-2137 works?

saintg · Jun 7, 2011

would this also fix the error code P0449?

SaabDrew · Jun 16, 2011

This write-up was fantastic! Thank you so much! I was actually able to fix it using part no. 12611801. Also you're tip on practicing with the identical connector by the MAF was excellent! Again, many thanks for this.

saintg · Jun 16, 2011

so does anyone know if this will fix the p0449 code? i googled it and found this http://engine-codes.com/P0449.html any help at all would be awesome!

"HOW TO" replace EVAP Purge Valve on 2.8T V6

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