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4cyl oil pump install (with pics)

56K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  PettitWC 
#1 · (Edited)
Figured some things out and I was able to replace my oil pump this weekend. Sorry about the iphone pics...it's all I had handy.




Here's how it goes.


  1. Get the car up on Jack Stands. Remove Right Front Wheel. Remove Crank pulley cover from the side and beneath the vehicle.
  2. Just like you were taking off the serpentine belt, release the tension on the belt at the tensioner and keep it in place with a 3mm allen key. Then take the belt and put it over the to of the crank pulley – there is no need to remove the entire belt.
  3. Just like you were dropping the sump, remove the flywheel cover.
  4. This is the hard part. Use a HUGE Screwdriver (or a prybar in my case) and wedge it between the teeth of the flywheel and the bell housing. These are the standard instructions you'll find on the internet. However, I needed to also get part of the prybar to brace against the engine block.








5. While the flywheel is wedged, use a 27mm socket on a breaker bar while holding the flywheel in place to remove the crank bolt. I think I was able to accomplish this alone because I'm pretty tall (6'3) and I have long arms.


Reassembly will not be possible using this method and only one person. I have a saab flywheel lock on order from Kent-Moore. That will be the only way to get the proper torque on the crank bolt, unless you have a helper to brace the flywheel.



6. remove crank bolt:



7. Remove crank pulley:

 
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#2 ·
oil pump continued...

8. Use Circlip pliers to remove the oil-pump housing circlip:

9. Use Huge Pliers to get a grip on the oil pump housing. Do not twist! Rock back and forth gently to loosen while pulling out.






Notice the black item at about 5 o'clock on this pic. That keeps the oil pump housing alligned. Too much force during disassembly may break that item!





10. Remove the Companion Flange:


 
#3 ·
oil pump continued...

11. Before you continue, you need to note the relative position of the squares on the two pieces of oil pump. They need to be put back the same way in order for the companion flange to be fully inserted.

WIS recommends welding rods, but I used a peghook from my toolboard to remove the oil pump. You can probably use your fingers to accomplish this...




  1. 12. The oil pathways seemed clean here:





Assembly is the reverse of installation. However, my flywheel lock and oil pump housing haven't arrived yet, so I put the old one back on and covered the works with a rubber glove.
 
#6 ·
Old thread, but still very helpful!

Used this for replacing the oil pump cover o-ring and crank pulley seal on my NG900 ('95 900s 2.3 N/A).

Total work time was about 90 minutes for me

Used a pair of angled snap ring pliers from harbor freight that went for about $13 at the time.

http://www.harborfreight.com/11-piece-snap-ring-pliers-set-92374.html

The most difficult part was removing the crank pulley seal...finally got it with a combination screwdriver/needlenose trick

Also primed the oil pump with the starter (ignition wire unplugged from distributor) at the end and everything seems to be working just fine.


Thanks again!
 
#7 ·
Great write-up! However, rather than do the prybar to lock the flywheel, one could also do a trick that was posted on FixMySaab by just jerry rig a small metal plate that bolts the flywheel in place while the crankshaft pulley bolt is removed/installed. See this: http://fixmysaab.com/9-5_repair/pulley/step1.asp?nsteps=3

This makes it a bit easier if you're doing this alone.
 
#14 ·
Yep, I installed it in reverse on my manual transmission 900. I did it in park on the 9-5, which has an automatic. One of these days I'll probably buy a flywheel lock and make sure it's up to spec with a torque wrench, but if the impact driver can get it off, it should have put it on with enough torque.
 
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