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  #1  
Old 8th February 2009
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Question Clicking noise and no start up

I'm back! You knew I wouldn't be away forever--not with a Saab!

I'm having more problems. The most recent, however, is the starting issue. I've noticed this winter that when it gets cold here, the Vig makes its irritation known by giving a little screeching sound accompanied by a bit of hesitation at start up. The car has started every time, until last week.

Last Sunday, after a pretty cold night, I went to start the car, got the screeching noise and an attempt to turn over, then nothing except an odd clicking noise. We were able to jump-start the car, and it's started right until today.

This afternoon when I went out, as soon as I opened the car door, I heard the same clicking noise. This time when I went to start the car absolutely nothing happened. No attept to turn over, no other sound but the clicking sound. Nothing except the lights on the dash. The clicking sound stopped after about 30 seconds. When I opened the car door, it started again. This happened repeatedly 3-4 times. The last time I turned the ignition, the clicking did NOT start when I opened the door. I went out and took some video to document the clicking sound:

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x8b...ing-sound_auto

Does anyone have any thoughts on what this could be? I have to wait for hubby to get home to give the car another jump start. Could it be my alternator? Could my son have left the door open and something drained the battery? What's with the screeching sound? I'm pretty much at (another) loss here.

As always, help and suggestions are always greatly appreciated!

Melissa
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  #2  
Old 8th February 2009
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My 10 second read response ..

The screeching noise should not be .. possible starter gear to ring gear problem??
The click could be from a failing solenoid or perhaps a near dead battery.
But, wait, a re-read.
The "click" is initiated by the opening of the door ?
Isolate by pulling the courtesy light fuse...
Prime suspects are the ignition switch, the ICE module, and trying to diagnose things too fast...
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  #3  
Old 8th February 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthworm
...trying to diagnose things too fast...
Would that be you trying to diagnose too fast or me?

Additional notes:

1. The final time I opened the door when I was done "filming" there was NO clicking sound.
2. It took a few minutes of being connected to hubby's SUV to get the car to turn over. First try it attempted to turn over, second try we got the screeching noise and it turned over. Third time, when I was ready to document the screeching sound, there wasn't one. (This was all in the span of about 7-8 minutes.)
3. The screeching sound only happens when the engine is cold. At first I wanted to attribute this to the outside temp, but after today I think it has to do with the actual engine being cold.

Quote:
Originally Posted by earthworm
Prime suspects are the ignition switch, the ICE module...
What can I do to check if the culprit is the ignition switch and/or the ICE module. Oh, and what is the ICE module? I couldn't find it in the acronym thread.
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Old 8th February 2009
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i bet its the battery
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  #5  
Old 8th February 2009
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The screeching sound is most likely the starter. Mine has started making that sound as well, but only when it's well below freezing, the colder, the louder.

The ticking sound I don't have a clue. However, I think that it's related to low battery voltage. If the dash lights are dim and it won't turn over, it's a sure bet that your battery voltage is very low. In fact, your video shows a battery that's so low that the starter solenoid won't even engage.

You need to figure out if your battery problem is due to the battery being dead from old age or some other failure or if it's dead from the alternator not charging it.

John
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  #6  
Old 8th February 2009
hkayssi hkayssi is offline
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It's your battery, it happened to me last week. Try recharging it over night and see if that works. It worked for me
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Old 8th February 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by web-betty
Would that be you trying to diagnose too fast or me?

Additional notes:

1. The final time I opened the door when I was done "filming" there was NO clicking sound.
2. It took a few minutes of being connected to hubby's SUV to get the car to turn over. First try it attempted to turn over, second try we got the screeching noise and it turned over. Third time, when I was ready to document the screeching sound, there wasn't one. (This was all in the span of about 7-8 minutes.)
3. The screeching sound only happens when the engine is cold. At first I wanted to attribute this to the outside temp, but after today I think it has to do with the actual engine being cold.



What can I do to check if the culprit is the ignition switch and/or the ICE module. Oh, and what is the ICE module? I couldn't find it in the acronym thread.
Do the simple things first, recharge the battery, 90% chance it's your problem
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Old 8th February 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstrowe
You need to figure out if your battery problem is due to the battery being dead from old age or some other failure or if it's dead from the alternator not charging it.
The battery was purchased 07/08 so either I have a bad battery, or I need a new alternator...

Quote:
Originally Posted by hkayssi
It's your battery, it happened to me last week. Try recharging it over night and see if that works. It worked for me
I would love for it to be the battery. Since it's so new it s/b under warranty, and if it's not, it's less expensive then a new alternator (I assume).

As mentioned, this happened last week as well. Could something be draining the battery?
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Old 8th February 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by web-betty
The battery was purchased 07/08 so either I have a bad battery, or I need a new alternator...



I would love for it to be the battery. Since it's so new it s/b under warranty, and if it's not, it's less expensive then a new alternator (I assume).

As mentioned, this happened last week as well. Could something be draining the battery?
If something is draining it, then the alternator will be putting out a good voltage once you get it jump started. A good charging voltage is in the range of 13.8 to 14.1 volts. Getting a dead battery up to that voltage may take a little while.

Even a new battery can develop a shorted cell if it is not made right. The problem with that is that the battery can only develop 10 volts with a shorted cell. That may not be enough to start your car reliably. Also, the alternator will be trying to charge what is now a 10 volt battery as if it is a 12 volt battery. This will fry the remaining cells in a very short time.

John
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  #10  
Old 8th February 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grouchy
i bet its the battery
This is the first thing to check, as always...
I am too fast to diagnose, or to guess, Web-Betty, wish I could slow it down
The Integrated Central Electronics is located in the area of the relays and cabin fuses....I cannot imagine any click emulating from this timing device.
But, if a too-low voltage situation occurs, anything could happen. .
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  #11  
Old 9th February 2009
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Car started up this morning no problem. I didn't charge the battery as I don't have charger. All I did was get a jump yesterday afternoon when the battery was dead, drive to the store and home.

Is this an indication that the alternator is doing its job? That would be good news.
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  #12  
Old 9th February 2009
hkayssi hkayssi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by web-betty
Car started up this morning no problem. I didn't charge the battery as I don't have charger. All I did was get a jump yesterday afternoon when the battery was dead, drive to the store and home.

Is this an indication that the alternator is doing its job? That would be good news.
Betty, just RECHARGE the bettery already Mine did the same thing, the battery was just drained from lack of regular and long drives. I started having intermittant starting problems. I recharged the battery and it's been 10 days since and the battery is still very strong.

The alternator would last about 150K miles and if it's dead, you'll have a battery and triangle lighting up on the dash. You can have a slowly dying alternator but that can be tested with a test under load where all the accessories would be on and the voltage would be tested then.

You can have a defective battery as well new or not defects are unfortunately a fact of life with the crappy quality control these days

Other simple cause could be a loose battery cable terminal or corrosion on the terminals, in that case use baking soda to clean that and brush off

Last edited by hkayssi; 9th February 2009 at 10:53 AM.
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