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Old 23-05-08
Jssaab Jssaab is offline
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Default Intermittant Oil Light

Bit of a problem I was making some highway pulls ( next to a debadged black Maxima with exhaust) when I let off and let the car coast and the oil light came on, it quickly went out as i re engaged the trans and the RPMs raised to 1000+. I started to baby it and Getting off the next exit cloverleaf to get a can of oil the light came back on as I rounded the curves

I had checked the oil early in the day and it was just low to the "ball" on the bottom of the dip stick, I had planed on akng a change so I figured it was OK for now.

SO I added a QT (maybe too much?) and noe th elight comes on everytime the RPSM drop below 1000. I babied it home and parked it.

My quetions, the sender or the pump? I do not think it is sludgeing the car was completely rebuilt 15 ago and had not sludge a that time. If th epump how hard is it to replace if the sender same QUesiton ( and I ma thining do the sender first, then pump figuing the Sender is 8 Years old and ahs 120 K on it.
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Old 24-05-08
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Chris 9-5 Chris 9-5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jssaab

My quetions, the sender or the pump? I do not think it is sludgeing the car was completely rebuilt 15 ago and had not sludge a that time. If th epump how hard is it to replace if the sender same QUesiton ( and I ma thining do the sender first, then pump figuing the Sender is 8 Years old and ahs 120 K on it.
I'm sorry - but English is my only language, so can you explain this again?

When did you have the sump / oil pan off and the pick up and strainer thoroughly cleaned?
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Old 24-05-08
Jssaab Jssaab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris 9-5
I'm sorry - but English is my only language, so can you explain this again?

When did you have the sump / oil pan off and the pick up and strainer thoroughly cleaned?
Sorry tired and drunk when I posted speaking russian all night so English was not on the forefront of my typing ( hehe)...

My quetion is, is it the sender or the pump? I do not think it is sludgeing --- the car was completely rebuilt 15 K miles ( one Year ago and had no sludge at that time. If I need the the pump, how hard is it to replace or if it is the sender I have the same Question ( so I am thinking to change the sender first, then pump. I figure thei the Sender is 8 Years old and hss 120 K miles on it. ( but then argain so does the pump)

Last edited by Jssaab; 24-05-08 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 24-05-08
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You need to put an oil pressure gauge on there, and read the oil pressure under the conditions that caused your oil light to come on (hot idle). If the oil pressure is fine - then your sensor is bad, if oil pressure is low, then you know you have some kind of internal engine issue - bad oil pump, plugged pickup, or excessive bearing clearance. What oil are you using?
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Old 24-05-08
Jssaab Jssaab is offline
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I am using a sun blend, 10w30 I have Forged pistons and they seem to let go of oil so I went to the heavier blend

I jsut had the cover off and repalced a couple of lifters and all looked fine ( abot 1000 miles ago
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Old 24-05-08
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You don't need a synth blend and you don't need a 10W30. Try a 5W40 full synth. The oil light won't come on unless you have like 2 psi or less. Pray it's a sender. I replaced mine, although it was just leaking, not malfunctioning when it went....
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Old 25-05-08
Jssaab Jssaab is offline
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Teh sender Could be leaking I was noticing oil on the drive and a burning oil smell, I will check it today... i Was just going to change with full synth so I will use the 5W40 thanks. When the car is idling I get no noise so I am thinking sender more now ( if the light comes on under 2 there would definitely be noise up top)

I'll post up after I figure it out...
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