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NG900 & OG9-3 Workshop NG900 (1994 to 1998) & OG9-3 (1999-2002) & '03 Convertible Technical Forum

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  #1  
Old 12th May 2008
24601 24601 is offline
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Default Brake Pads

What are the best brake pads for a 9-3? I'm not terribly concerned about pad noise, more so performance and longevity.

(I hope this isn't "stickied" I didn't see it in the FAQ)
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  #2  
Old 12th May 2008
neomagus00 neomagus00 is offline
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what sort of conditions? if you regularly brake very hard, that'll be a different rec than if you drive like a normal person... ditto if you always drive in warm weather vs. having to deal with subzero temps.
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  #3  
Old 12th May 2008
24601 24601 is offline
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Mostly high speed/highway. Even the country roads around my house I drive pretty fast. I really want something that lasts long and stops the car really well. I've never had brakes on any car that bothered me. My girlfriend's v12 XJS has track/race pads on it and they're not loud enough to be bothersome. Plus I really don't care about dust, it just hoses off with cleaner.

So basically I just care about stopping power and longevity.

Edit, I guess I didn't completely answer your question....

Yes, I normally brake pretty hard. Mostly high speed braking, not so much 100-0 type stuff. Mostly zipping through traffic braking.

As for the other question, I'm in jersey and I use the car year round. So I would say that the weather is probably similar to where you are.

Last edited by 24601; 12th May 2008 at 08:20 AM.
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  #4  
Old 12th May 2008
24601 24601 is offline
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Any suggestions? I'm ordering today....
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  #5  
Old 12th May 2008
hkayssi hkayssi is offline
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Use the search button there were 2 threads (that I'm aware of) about a comparason between brands for different conditions of use and prices
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  #6  
Old 12th May 2008
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I would suggest EBC yellow stuffs or Redstuffs. Yellows last longer as I understand it; but both work quite well.

As Hkyassi suggested, do a search in both NG 900 forums. The recent threads on this topic will give you a lot of info, and you can draw your own conclusions
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  #7  
Old 12th May 2008
ParaMedic_Saab ParaMedic_Saab is offline
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I have EBC yellows up front and Greens in the back, with EBC dimpled/slotted rotors and SS lines(search for my write up)

Very happy with the braking powre and would highly suggest this setup.
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  #8  
Old 12th May 2008
24601 24601 is offline
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Its almost kind of weird that you wrote that. Thats exactly what I was thinking about doing. It seems like the best set up.
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  #9  
Old 12th May 2008
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Just curious; but why would you want to decrease your stopping power more in back compared to the front? The front brakes are already biased by size and pressure; why put different pads in back as well?
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Old 12th May 2008
ParaMedic_Saab ParaMedic_Saab is offline
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I initially had greens all around. I wasnt happy with the cold stopping power,

I just changed the fronts because most of the stopping power is up front and because the yellow stuff arent cheap. The greens do stop very well, thats why I figured I would only change the fronts (once the greens get up to temp they work well). My front end does not seem to dip that much with this setup up.

Maybe Ill change the greens to yellows in the future.
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  #11  
Old 12th May 2008
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Akebono's are the best street pad IMO.
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  #12  
Old 12th May 2008
24601 24601 is offline
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I just ordered the yellow stuff pads for all 4, they seem like the best pads available. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
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  #13  
Old 12th May 2008
neomagus00 neomagus00 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Saabnut
Just curious; but why would you want to decrease your stopping power more in back compared to the front? The front brakes are already biased by size and pressure; why put different pads in back as well?
i don't know about anyone else, but my rears lock before my fronts... i'd be glad of the opportunity to bias the braking a few ticks forward.

24601 - follow the bedding-in procedure to the letter, it will make a big difference in longevity. i'm at the tail end of the bed-in for my yellowstuffs... this weekend we'll see what they can REALLY do...
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  #14  
Old 12th May 2008
24601 24601 is offline
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I feel like an idiot, what does bedding in mean?
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  #15  
Old 12th May 2008
neomagus00 neomagus00 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 24601
I feel like an idiot
don't bother doing that, it takes too much time away from learning

bedding-in is the process whereby you ease the new pads into their new home. in the case of yellowstuffs, that means taking it super easy on them (braking really really lightly) for the first hundred miles. for the next hundred miles, you can use them like a timid normal person - light to moderate pressure. after that, you do 5 stops from 60-10 mph, drive around without touching the brakes for 10 minutes to let them cool, then do another 5 stops from 60-10 mph, then drive around without touching them to let them cool. then you can use them normally.

note that the mileages are city miles - 100 highway miles doesn't count. also, for the last part, i usually go late at night to an onramp, do my 5 decelerations on the road, then immediately pull on to the highway for a while, to get air moving past the brakes with no risk of using them. drive 2 exits, get off the highway, do your next 5 decelerations, immediately get back on the highway, and drive home.

the bed-in procedure is different for different manufacturers, and may be different if you replace rotors at the same time; ebc's specs are #9 on this page: http://www.ebcbrakes.com/assets/typicalq%26a.html
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  #16  
Old 12th May 2008
24601 24601 is offline
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Ok, I understand now. I had never heard the term "bedding-in" before.

Does any body have any tips/suggestions? I have read the two different write ups about it.

I'm going to be installing new rotors and pads as soon as they get here (probably thursday). I'm planning on painting the calipers black and also painting the "unused" portions of the rotors.

Like this:

http://www.ericsaabsite.com/Upgrades...earRotors.html

http://www.ericsaabsite.com/Upgrades...ontRotors.html

If anything so that they look better than rust and grey.

I bought new clips and everything....

The receipt from eeuroparts:

1 Brake bleeder (PB) - $49.90
1 Catch Bottles (CB) - $23.90
1 Rear Brake Caliper Hardware Kit (5239744) - $14.90
2 Rear brak e rotor set screw (8055998) - $3.33
1 Retaining Spring Kit (front caliper) (4244422) - $9.90
2 Set Screw (4249751) - $3.33
1 7mm Brake Caliper Bolt Socket (3/8" drive) (1477) - $4.90

I ended up getting these rotors from tirerack:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=S
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  #17  
Old 12th May 2008
neomagus00 neomagus00 is offline
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also useful, if you haven't seen it:
http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/2007....Jacked_up.jpg
and his rear brakes tutorial, too.

when you paint, remove EVERYTHING from the caliper... rust, old paint, everything...
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  #18  
Old 13th May 2008
24601 24601 is offline
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Thanks for the help, I neglected to read that one earlier. It was very helpful.

I always forget how the similar (identical) a lot of the 9-5 procedures are.
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  #19  
Old 13th May 2008
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toxicavenger toxicavenger is offline
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Hey don't feel like a idiot I have heard of it called "seating" before. Never bedding, I only used that phrase for my women in my life!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 24601
I feel like an idiot, what does bedding in mean?
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