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KjT817
How To Replace Spark Plugs (2.0T) (Pics)
Both write ups are very nice! We'll catch up to the ng900 forum in no time.
Quick question though, do we need dielectric grease on the connections?
Quick question though, do we need dielectric grease on the connections?
Is it just me or do those plugs make it look like the engine has been running lean?
I just replaced mine 2 days ago and they look exactly the same as your old ones, which I guess makes me feel better.
I just replaced mine 2 days ago and they look exactly the same as your old ones, which I guess makes me feel better.
Was thinking the same thing, although this is the first turbo'd car I've owned, and I was releived to see that they all looked pretty much the same.johnnyrocket said:
First turbo car for me as well and like I said mine look identical to yours. Atleast it would appear Saab's margin for deviation looks minimal. :lol:KjT817 said:
How to Change Spark Plugs - Job # 1 Done !!!
Followed KjT817 easy steps -
Took about 20 minutes max - to change these plugs - NO issues
Bought NGK plugs from local Saab Dealer here in T.O. -
Oil Filter kit = $ 12.00 - Dealer
Mobil 1 4L = $ 36 (wow);oops:
4 NGK plugs X $ 8 = $32 -Dealer
Bought Hex tool Kit = $ 13
Air Filter - not in stock
Cabin Filter - Not in Stock
Note- When looking for the Hex bit - its a T30 - to take of the covers both to get at the spark plugs and the oil filter cartridge
Dont :nono; look in the Automotive section of your Local store- they overcharge you - go to the Tools section :cheesy: ..you will find the same thing and you get more items for about the same compared to 1 bit in the Automotive section..
Oil and Filter change is next task (too late now tonight )- Trying to find best place for Air Filters
Dealer wants $ 30 for it Air
..not to happy so I will look around
So there you have it - my sparkplug tune-up so far cost me under $40
Next time - it will just be $30 (for the plugs)
She starts up nice and smooth now ..
Not sure but I assume I saved myself about $ 150 that the dealership would have charged me (there is nothing you can get the SAAB dealer to do for under $ 100 bucks )..and yes its nice to get to know the your vehicle
Stay tuned Oil and filter change is next !!!
Followed KjT817 easy steps -
Took about 20 minutes max - to change these plugs - NO issues
Bought NGK plugs from local Saab Dealer here in T.O. -
Oil Filter kit = $ 12.00 - Dealer
Mobil 1 4L = $ 36 (wow);oops:
4 NGK plugs X $ 8 = $32 -Dealer
Bought Hex tool Kit = $ 13
Air Filter - not in stock
Cabin Filter - Not in Stock
Note- When looking for the Hex bit - its a T30 - to take of the covers both to get at the spark plugs and the oil filter cartridge
Dont :nono; look in the Automotive section of your Local store- they overcharge you - go to the Tools section :cheesy: ..you will find the same thing and you get more items for about the same compared to 1 bit in the Automotive section..
Oil and Filter change is next task (too late now tonight )- Trying to find best place for Air Filters
Dealer wants $ 30 for it Air
..not to happy so I will look aroundSo there you have it - my sparkplug tune-up so far cost me under $40
Next time - it will just be $30 (for the plugs)
She starts up nice and smooth now ..
Not sure but I assume I saved myself about $ 150 that the dealership would have charged me (there is nothing you can get the SAAB dealer to do for under $ 100 bucks
)..and yes its nice to get to know the your vehicle Stay tuned Oil and filter change is next !!!
www.eeuroparts.com www.thesaabsite.com and www.genuinesaab.com are good for this sort of thing (I'm assuming it isn't a big deal to get stuff shipped to Canada)isd1027 said:
It'd be sweet if you created a "How To" with pictures on that - I'm planning to do my serp belt next week and will be taking pictures as I complete it.isd1027 said:
KT
There here already (original post by David 9-3)
Detailed instructions on how to change oil in a Saab 9-3
See the bottom of this page for a list of parts and tools needed.
1. Consider (not required) TURNING THE WHEELS TO THE LEFT to allow better access to the oil plug.
OPEN THE HOOD NEXT! If you are unlucky and the hood release malfunctions, you do not want to be in a situation where you have already drained your oil and cannot refill it.
Some people prefer to change their oil when the engine is hot because more oil drains. I do not wish to get burned so I wait 3 hours after the engine is off. The oil is only slightly warm (approx. 90F or 35C) Position drain pan under oil plug. Note that oil shoots approximately 6 inches (15 cm) rearward. The drain plug is arms length from the right side of the car about level with the front edge of the tire. It faces backwards. Photo (below): oil drain plug is to the right.
![Image]()
Photo (below): oil drain plug is to the left in the photo. There is a small paper sticker above it.
![Image]()
Photo (below): oil drain plug has been removed. See some oil dripping from it.
![Image]()
2. THE BEST POSITION IS TO LIE DOWN AS SHOWN by the position of the map. (see photo below: note the angle of the map on the floor which is positioned to keep clothes clean). I did not find it necessary to use jacks or Rhinoramps. If you use a jack, use jackstands. Working under a jack is considered dangerous and potentially a fatal error (causing death).
3. A 15 mm SOCKET WRENCH or perhaps a box wrench is the best.
4. Consider putting some newspaper under the container used to collect old oil. After oil drains, replace the oil plug, change the rubber washer on the oil plug. Tighten slightly more than finger tight (18 ft. lbs. of torque or 25 Nm). Saab reports cracking of the crankcase with excessive tightening in the classic 900. The oil plug was not excessively tight or difficult to remove during the first oil change. It seems that gorillas do not work in this part of the assembly line in Trollhattan.
5. Remove black plastic engine cover (says SAAB turbo) by unscrewing the 3 Torx screws. The factory WIS service manual recommends removing the atmospheric pressure sensors and manifold absolute pressure sensor connections and moving the cables. However, I do not have any access problems if I don't disconnect these wires.
![Image]()
Remove the oil filter cover. I use a 32 mm SOCKET from Sears (US$6.99) and an extension (approx. 6.99-7.99 at Sears) which connects to the socket wrench. (See photo below where a box wrench is used to point to the oil filter cover.) My 32mm socket is very tall so I must first loosen the cover, remove the socket, and finish unscrewing by hand.
![Image]()
7. Pull off the oil filter from the oil filter cover. Replace the green oil filter cover gasket and lubricate the new gasket with some oil. Place new oil filter. Tighten cover to slightly more than finger tight (18 ft. lbs. of torque or 25 Nm). In the classic 900, I poured some oil into the filter to reduce the amount of time that the engine runs dry without much oil. However, in the 9-3, if you pour oil into the oil filter compartment, it drains away. Therefore, I don't think it is necessary to pour oil here. The SAAB oil filter installed in the factory is a Hengst E630H Energetic (made in Germany, part number 12 579 143) and a new SAAB oil filter from the dealer is a Purflux L264A (made in France, part number 24460713). Check the oil filter carefully as there are some reports that the Purflux filter, despite being packaged in a Saab box and sold by Saab, may be the filter only for the 2003-2004 model. The correct Saab filter (part number 93175493) has straight pleats, not zigzaged pleats and is designated for all 2.0 litre SAAB 9-3 models and says Hengst E630H. The reported difference is the bypass valve is not activated until 100 psi compared to 80 for the old design. The old design is meant to fit with the old oil filter cap so those with 2003-2004 model cars might consider changing the plastic oil filter cap to fit the new filter. If one is interested in saving money, they may consider the AC Delco PF457G, which is sold by Saturn dealers for about $2 less than Saab dealer's 93175493/Hengst E630H. The two filter look the same, unlike other aftermarket designs which are slightly different.
8. Fill the engine with 6.3 or 6 quarts of oil (yellow cap over the silver metal part of the engine). Check for oil leaks when the engine is running. Overfilling the oil is never recommended in any car.
Saab requires synthetic motor oil that meets the GM-LL-A-025 specifications. In Europe, there are quite a few motor oils that meet this specification. In the US, there are (Edited ou obsolete info, now several oils available) . Saab Long Life 0W30, which meets the standard, reportedly is no longer available. (Deleted non Valid info).
9. Check the ground for leaks.
LIST OF NEEDED ITEMS for oil change to 2.0 litre turbo engine
TOOLS
1. socket wrench set
2. 15 mm socket wrench (should be included in set)
3. 32 mm socket wrench (need to purchase separately)
4. 6-9" extension for 32 mm socket wrench head
5. T-30 Torx screwdriver (may be in tool kit above spare tire)
6. pan to collect used oil
7. if changing oil outside instead of a garage, I recommend at least 6 paperweights (such as a tool) to prevent newspapers from blowing away.
PARTS
1. oil filter (Saab 93175493, 2003-2004 model years may also use 24460713)
2. gasket drain plug (Saab 3536966, can be re-used a few times)
3. sealing ring (oil filter cap gasket) (Saab 90537437, can be re-used a few times)
4. 6 quarts of synthetic motor oil meeting GM-LL-A-025 (in the U.S., few oils meet the specification. Mobil 1 0W40 is the most commonly available. Saab Long Life Oil 0W30 is no longer supplied. Made in Germany Castrol Syntec 0W30 has limited availability. Elf is even harder to find and much more expensive).
DISPOSABLES
1. newspaper (I recommend at least 6 sections)
2. disposable gloves
3. paper towels or paper napkins
![Image]()
Detailed instructions on how to change oil in a Saab 9-3
See the bottom of this page for a list of parts and tools needed.
1. Consider (not required) TURNING THE WHEELS TO THE LEFT to allow better access to the oil plug.
OPEN THE HOOD NEXT! If you are unlucky and the hood release malfunctions, you do not want to be in a situation where you have already drained your oil and cannot refill it.
Some people prefer to change their oil when the engine is hot because more oil drains. I do not wish to get burned so I wait 3 hours after the engine is off. The oil is only slightly warm (approx. 90F or 35C) Position drain pan under oil plug. Note that oil shoots approximately 6 inches (15 cm) rearward. The drain plug is arms length from the right side of the car about level with the front edge of the tire. It faces backwards. Photo (below): oil drain plug is to the right.
Photo (below): oil drain plug is to the left in the photo. There is a small paper sticker above it.
Photo (below): oil drain plug has been removed. See some oil dripping from it.
2. THE BEST POSITION IS TO LIE DOWN AS SHOWN by the position of the map. (see photo below: note the angle of the map on the floor which is positioned to keep clothes clean). I did not find it necessary to use jacks or Rhinoramps. If you use a jack, use jackstands. Working under a jack is considered dangerous and potentially a fatal error (causing death).
3. A 15 mm SOCKET WRENCH or perhaps a box wrench is the best.
4. Consider putting some newspaper under the container used to collect old oil. After oil drains, replace the oil plug, change the rubber washer on the oil plug. Tighten slightly more than finger tight (18 ft. lbs. of torque or 25 Nm). Saab reports cracking of the crankcase with excessive tightening in the classic 900. The oil plug was not excessively tight or difficult to remove during the first oil change. It seems that gorillas do not work in this part of the assembly line in Trollhattan.
5. Remove black plastic engine cover (says SAAB turbo) by unscrewing the 3 Torx screws. The factory WIS service manual recommends removing the atmospheric pressure sensors and manifold absolute pressure sensor connections and moving the cables. However, I do not have any access problems if I don't disconnect these wires.
Remove the oil filter cover. I use a 32 mm SOCKET from Sears (US$6.99) and an extension (approx. 6.99-7.99 at Sears) which connects to the socket wrench. (See photo below where a box wrench is used to point to the oil filter cover.) My 32mm socket is very tall so I must first loosen the cover, remove the socket, and finish unscrewing by hand.
7. Pull off the oil filter from the oil filter cover. Replace the green oil filter cover gasket and lubricate the new gasket with some oil. Place new oil filter. Tighten cover to slightly more than finger tight (18 ft. lbs. of torque or 25 Nm). In the classic 900, I poured some oil into the filter to reduce the amount of time that the engine runs dry without much oil. However, in the 9-3, if you pour oil into the oil filter compartment, it drains away. Therefore, I don't think it is necessary to pour oil here. The SAAB oil filter installed in the factory is a Hengst E630H Energetic (made in Germany, part number 12 579 143) and a new SAAB oil filter from the dealer is a Purflux L264A (made in France, part number 24460713). Check the oil filter carefully as there are some reports that the Purflux filter, despite being packaged in a Saab box and sold by Saab, may be the filter only for the 2003-2004 model. The correct Saab filter (part number 93175493) has straight pleats, not zigzaged pleats and is designated for all 2.0 litre SAAB 9-3 models and says Hengst E630H. The reported difference is the bypass valve is not activated until 100 psi compared to 80 for the old design. The old design is meant to fit with the old oil filter cap so those with 2003-2004 model cars might consider changing the plastic oil filter cap to fit the new filter. If one is interested in saving money, they may consider the AC Delco PF457G, which is sold by Saturn dealers for about $2 less than Saab dealer's 93175493/Hengst E630H. The two filter look the same, unlike other aftermarket designs which are slightly different.
8. Fill the engine with 6.3 or 6 quarts of oil (yellow cap over the silver metal part of the engine). Check for oil leaks when the engine is running. Overfilling the oil is never recommended in any car.
Saab requires synthetic motor oil that meets the GM-LL-A-025 specifications. In Europe, there are quite a few motor oils that meet this specification. In the US, there are (Edited ou obsolete info, now several oils available) . Saab Long Life 0W30, which meets the standard, reportedly is no longer available. (Deleted non Valid info).
9. Check the ground for leaks.
LIST OF NEEDED ITEMS for oil change to 2.0 litre turbo engine
TOOLS
1. socket wrench set
2. 15 mm socket wrench (should be included in set)
3. 32 mm socket wrench (need to purchase separately)
4. 6-9" extension for 32 mm socket wrench head
5. T-30 Torx screwdriver (may be in tool kit above spare tire)
6. pan to collect used oil
7. if changing oil outside instead of a garage, I recommend at least 6 paperweights (such as a tool) to prevent newspapers from blowing away.
PARTS
1. oil filter (Saab 93175493, 2003-2004 model years may also use 24460713)
2. gasket drain plug (Saab 3536966, can be re-used a few times)
3. sealing ring (oil filter cap gasket) (Saab 90537437, can be re-used a few times)
4. 6 quarts of synthetic motor oil meeting GM-LL-A-025 (in the U.S., few oils meet the specification. Mobil 1 0W40 is the most commonly available. Saab Long Life Oil 0W30 is no longer supplied. Made in Germany Castrol Syntec 0W30 has limited availability. Elf is even harder to find and much more expensive).
DISPOSABLES
1. newspaper (I recommend at least 6 sections)
2. disposable gloves
3. paper towels or paper napkins
**MODS: PICS GOT MOVED: PLEASE EDIT ORIGINAL POST WITH THIS:
KjT817 said:**I ACCEPT NO FAULT IF YOU MESS UP YOUR CAR FOLLOING MY LEAD**
So the old Aero rolled 60K and I decided to get some service done. After hearing how much the scheduled maintainence was about to cost me, I decided to DIY a few of the tasks.
Here's how I replaced my Spark Plugs:
1) Surf over to eEuroparts.com and pick up your parts. That's where I got mine, a good deal (got an air filter and a serp. belt too... that's another story). I ordered on Saturday and had the goods on Tuesday. A BIG thumbs up to those guys
![Image]()
2) Gather your stuff (4 Plugs, Socket Set, Plug Wrench, and a Star Bit *can someone chime in with the #? I forgot which I used*) and set aside 35 min.
![Image]()
3) Remove these bolts. I vaccumed everything out to safeguard against anything falling into the combustion chambers.
![Image]()
4) Remove the circled coil pack bolt first, then remove the plug. I started from the left (passenger side) and will call the plug nearest the air intake Cylinder #1, Cylinder #4 is nearest to the Battery
![Image]()
5) Remove the old plug and screw in the new one, follow the plug's reccomended torque spec. (21 ft/lbs - thx JonV) Work one plug at a time so you don't mix up the order by chance! Also, keep track of which plug came out of which cylinder, this helps to diagnose fouled up plugs etc. (write it on the plug with a sharpie if you need to)
![Image]()
6) Once you've replaced all four and have tightened everything up, put the plug cover back on and tighten it down. Then take a peek at what you replaced and make sure there's nothing out of the ordinary going on.
![Image]()
7) Congrats! You've saved some serious coin and have hopefully learned something in the process!
Don't know where to post this but went to the Saab Dealer for a $94 oil change on my 9-3 that I bought Monday. Car has roughly 70k miles now. Bought with 69,510. Was told car hasn't been serviced at that dealer since 42k miles and it missed a critical 60k mile tune up that will cost $1,200. It will take 2 days to complete. What needs to be done and is their anywhere else I can go if I buy what I need??? I need to have it done soon as it could void my powertrain warranty if not done. If its not done at dealer ship how will they know I had it done? Any help will do. Thanks
Thank you for the detailed explanation. I replaced my plugs this weekend. It took me 25 minutes and that's with being extra careful. I put in Autolite Double Platinum plugs which in Niagara Falls Ontario were $10.00 per plug and 10 minutes across the border into Niagara Falls NY the same plugs were $3.99. Us Canadians must have STUPID carved into our foreheads! Thanks again.
Ive heard the NGK's do very well in our cars. I just replaced mine 3k ago and are working very well.
The original plugs in my car were NGK's. The Autolites seem to make my engine run nice and smooth and they have a good reputation. I did put in the APP3923 double platinum! Now that I know how easy it is to replace them I'll change back to NGK if I notice a loss in performance. But like I said so far so good.
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