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  #1  
Old 7th February 2008
volkans volkans is offline
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Default Saab Tonneau Cover Motor Fails help

Hi guys,

I have 1995 900 SE convertible. it's tonneau cover motor failed recently. I heard creaking noise with a little hesitation and I use it that way for a while and it finally stopped.

I took the part out and I discovered the gear is touching the edge of the hole. I don't know how to fix it. Maybe it's an alignment issue.

Here is the pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23656294@N08/2248953003
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23656294@N08/2249759058/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23656294@N08/2248953093/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23656294@N08/2248953039/

This is my only car and I love it. I hope you guys can help me with it.
Volkan
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  #2  
Old 7th February 2008
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saabchilten saabchilten is offline
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Default

well i expect hk to come with all his links that helped me among others, but the motor coming disengaged is a normal problem. was there any ticking or grinding before it failed? if not, i'm thinking maybe you can set it back in its proper place and then install the motor brace (which will be shown in a link in another reply, i promise) to keep it in place. ticking or grinding means it might have eaten the gear up some, but it doesn't look to be that way in the pic.
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  #3  
Old 7th February 2008
volkans volkans is offline
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Thank you for reply,

If I put it back, it probably won't work because, the gear still touching to edge and it's holding it againts move.

You are right gear is also fine. But I don't know why it is that way. Do you think it is tilted a little bit or what do you think why the gear start touching the edge?
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Old 7th February 2008
widuck1 widuck1 is offline
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Default go to genuine saab's site, look in the reference

library section, there a .pdf file concerning installation of the stiffening kit as well as realignment of the aluminum base plate which twists over time. If your gear is good this is a low or zero cost repair, the file is the very last one on lower right, study page 5 to see the alignment issues you need to address.

good luck,

John
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  #5  
Old 7th February 2008
volkans volkans is offline
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Thank you John,

is this the document that you mentioned?

http://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/files/900+cv+top.pdf
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  #6  
Old 7th February 2008
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saabchilten saabchilten is offline
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that's the one i downloaded. and yea that's basically what i meant by setting it back in it's proper place. you'd have to re-engage the motor (and i'm guessing twist the frame to do that as said) and then install the brace before reinstalling it in the car. i'm gonna get the brace if my car doesn't already have it just for the sake of preventative maintenance.
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  #7  
Old 7th February 2008
volkans volkans is offline
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thank you guys I will try it. I hope I will make it. I will let you know soon.
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  #8  
Old 21st March 2008
volkans volkans is offline
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I looked the part again and the pin looks strait. I guess the part itself is twisted. I will try to bend it back and I will make the hole bigger so I hope it protects the gears. I will install it that way.

After installation. Do I need to re-program the computer? How can I do that?

Last edited by volkans; 21st March 2008 at 03:10 PM.
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  #9  
Old 21st March 2008
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not sure if it needs to be reprogrammed. you'll definitely find out if the top refuses to move and gives your the failure message. only way to do it is to take it to the dealer or an independent and have them reprogram it with techII or ISAT.
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  #10  
Old 21st March 2008
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If you pull the motor off (disconnect the wiring to it) then it will need to be reprogrammed.

First off, I DO NOT KNOW IF THIS WILL WORK!! But, it's worth a try. Wish I had so I could tell you definitively. I would try to disconnect the battery (remove it entirely), and then mess with the motor.

Mine "looked" straight too, but you'd be amazed at how much of a difference alignment of the pin AND the bracket can make.

The WIS actually calls for the tech to check how straight both sides of the "hinge" are by putting the pin in each side (you'll know what I'm talking about when you get it apart). I verified straightness of my pin by laying in across a metal ruler. The WIS then tells the tech to use whatever means are necessay to remove the twist in the bracket, such as clamping the twisted bracket in a vise and going at it with a large wrench. I found using two wrenches (gently) and double-checking with the pin for straightness, until I had it right.

The reinforcing bracket is a must for these motors. Unless you WANT to pay for the reprogramming, do NOT move the convertible top anywhere after you remove battery and the motor.
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  #11  
Old 21st March 2008
flyhop flyhop is offline
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...and NOW I see from your photo that you've pulled it out already. Sorry that I didn't see your pictures first.

Looks like you will have to get it re-programmed. If you haven't moved your top at all, it shouldn't take them long.

One of your photos makes it look like the bracket is twisted somewhat. Pull it apart and straighten the bracket. Get the reinforcement bracket (cheap) and put it back in. Get in reprogrammed and enjoy these warmer days.
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  #12  
Old 5th April 2008
volkans volkans is offline
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Thank you for help.

So you are saying that I should make the pin straigth. And also the bracket needs to be adjusted. Do you know where I can buy a reinforment bracket? How easy is to do it by myself?
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  #13  
Old 5th April 2008
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From this post: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/ar...p/t-50015.html
"The Tonneau Motor bracket kit is SAAB P/N 4613519 - should be about $9.00 RETAIL at the dealership...", and I would go to the dealer for this one.

Don't know this price now, but it shouldn't be much. Instructions are pretty straight forward. Not hard to do.

Again, pull pin from hinge, and lay it on a straightedge to verify it is straight. Then insert pin into one side of the bracket. I would bet that when you push the pin through, it won't line up with the other hole on the other side of the bracket. It's really just a matter of bending it back. I used two wrenches. See my post above.

And, yes, your Saab dealer or local indy shop with a Saab Tech2 device will have to reprogram your car when you reinstall motor. I'll bet if you try to move it now, nothing will happen. Your computer knows you've pulled the motor and that it needs to be reprogrammed.

Good luck. If I can do the reinforcement bracket, it ain't hard.
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Last edited by flyhop; 5th April 2008 at 07:14 PM.
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  #14  
Old 15th April 2008
harriso1973 harriso1973 is offline
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Question Replacement gears???

I have had the same problem and only just found this thread of usefull information, I think I need to replace the cable tie fix I did with the correct reinforcement kit. Does anyone know where I can buy replacment gears from? As I think one is damaged. Thanks
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  #15  
Old 15th April 2008
flyhop flyhop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harriso1973
I have had the same problem and only just found this thread of usefull information, I think I need to replace the cable tie fix I did with the correct reinforcement kit. Does anyone know where I can buy replacment gears from? As I think one is damaged. Thanks
Are you talking about the gear inside the motor? I'm not sure you can get just the gear. Call a dealer and ask if it's sold individually and, if so, ask them for the part number. See what they say. I have no clue.
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  #16  
Old 15th April 2008
flyhop flyhop is offline
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Default Tonneau motor replacement.

BTW, you can sometimes find a good one on eBay. But make sure that yours isn't repairable first. See if the gear teeth are truly broken off (you're fubared, or if it's just misaligned (bend bracket back and it may work). You might also want to try calling Genuine Saab. I'll bet they would know.
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  #17  
Old 15th April 2008
widuck1 widuck1 is offline
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Default Volcan; My repair was exactly as outlined in the

genuine saab pdf, I twisted the aluminum housing and it has been fine for two years and hundreds of operations. Reprogramming was not neccesary, but it was very important to re-mount the potentiometer so that it agreed with the tonneau motor gear position, the pot only used about 60 or 80 degrees of arc (full stop to full stop) once you understand which end of the 80 degrees you need when closed and which when open you can full stop the pot one way or the other and slide it into place, makes more sense when all the parts are partially assembled but not fixed in place, you can imitate the motor and push/pull rod action and see exactly what i mean.

Good luck,

John

PS; mine warped even with kit installed, it was there when i disassembled. but it buys time...

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  #18  
Old 16th April 2008
prob prob is offline
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Default I just repaired my tonneau motor & added a new fix

It took almost a year, but I finally just did it. Installing stiffening kit and re-bending the bracket should work.

I ended up going an extra step with about $3 worth of hardware from Ace. It's late here, so I'll just attach some pics.

Basically, the bracket warps along a line from the gold latch to the hinge diagnally opposite. I decided to "pin" down a fourth point on the bracket using some bolts, a spacer, and some grade 8 washers. Everything is spaced so the washers do not push down hard on the bracket, they are just there to keep the bracket from moving up.

Its been running fine for a month. The only thing is that now I need to have a cheap wrench in the trunk in case the motor ever needs to be disengaged. no biggie

No guarantees, but it gave me peace of mind since some folks posted it can happen again with the stiffening kit. check it out...

1) Side View of clamp
2) Close-up
3) Over head
4) Machine Screw head view
5) Spacer length
6) Machine Screw Length

PS
I drove around with the sensor unplugged for almost a year. The top computer was smart enough to figure out the position and operate after I reinstalled the motor. I still need take it in and get the faults reset.

Last edited by prob; 16th April 2008 at 02:29 PM.
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  #19  
Old 3rd May 2009
prob prob is offline
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A year later and this fix still works fine!
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