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  #1  
Old 1st January 2008
turborob turborob is offline
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Default New owner requiring basic help.

Hi all.

I just bought a Saab 9000 CSE - turbo 2.3. I have a few questions to begin with. I'm going to change the oil, filter and coolant for peace of mind.

1. What type of oil is recommended for the car? Will mineral be OK?

2. How much oil does it hold?

3. Mine is 'LOW' on the dipstick; how much oil is there between full and low on the dipstick?

4. How do you drain the cooling system? How do you check the coolant level? In my last car's I've just pulled off the bottom radiator hose yet on this car I can't see one. At the moment it looks like there is only water in the car.

5. The car has a shuddering under brakes, I haven't had the wheels off but I'm suspecting a warped disc as the shuddering slows down with car speed. Is this common?

Being my first Saab, is there anything in particular to watch out for?

What tyre pressures do you run? The owners manual didn't come with the car, hence the basic questions.

All help would be great. Thanks,

Rob.
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  #2  
Old 1st January 2008
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Stefano Stefano is offline
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Hi, welcome to Saabcentral

Quote:
1. What type of oil is recommended for the car? Will mineral be OK?
You're going to start an argument with that, oil is like religion, everybody has his own and all the talk in this world wont' make him change it anyway most use sinthetic (turbo engines need good oil since it gets extreme temperature in the turbo) but it's really up o you what to use.
Quote:
2. How much oil does it hold?
IIRC, 3.8L including the oil filter.
Quote:
3. Mine is 'LOW' on the dipstick; how much oil is there between full and low on the dipstick?
About 1L
Quote:
4. How do you drain the cooling system?
There's a plug on the bottom of the radiator, you access it though a small hole in the "fairing" under the car behind the front bumper.
Quote:
How do you check the coolant level?
On the expansion tank, which sits on the right wheel well,
there are MIN and MAX references
Quote:
In my last car's I've just pulled off the bottom radiator hose yet on this car I can't see one.
There are hoses in this radiator too when you look at the engine, facing the windshield, one is in the top right position,the other (the one you may want to remove) is in the bottom left position, just under the A-C compressor.
Quote:
5. The car has a shuddering under brakes, I haven't had the wheels off but I'm suspecting a warped disc as the shuddering slows down with car speed. Is this common?
Not sure what you mean, but brakes are the weak spot in 9ks (well, just like the transmission, the heater core... ) and keep standing on the braks after a full stop can make the pads leave "footsteps) on the braking surface of the disc.
Quote:
Being my first Saab, is there anything in particular to watch out for?
We recently had a thread about what to check in a newly bought 9000 so I invite you to go and look for it, I'll add to that (repeiting it, actually) to install fresh spark plugs, THE RIGHT TYPE and correctly gapped. There is only two plugs that will work on your car, don't get fooled and only buy the correct NGKs.
Quote:
What tyre pressures do you run? The owners manual didn't come with the car, hence the basic questions.
I run 2.3bar front and rear but I have 16" so this might not apply to you.
Quote:
Thanks
You're very welcome Welcome again.
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  #3  
Old 1st January 2008
turborob turborob is offline
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Thanks for the answers!

I'll get the plugs, oil etc. hopefully all done in the next couple of days. I'll have to crawl under the car to see that radiator drain plug; it must be tiny as I had a brief look....

As for the shuddering, it is just as explained, even the steering wheel vibrates a fair bit under braking. I'll have someone look over it in the next few months.

That's all the questions for the time being but I'll just use this thread for all the questions which I'm sure will arise.

So far I love this car, at the price I got it at I just hope it isn't too good to be true.

Thanks again.
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  #4  
Old 2nd January 2008
LondonCSE LondonCSE is offline
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if i remember correctly there is a sticker on one of the rear wheel arches when you open the door with the tyre pressures on. i have the same year car and still have the manual so if i'm wrong let me know and i'll post what the handbook says.
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  #5  
Old 2nd January 2008
Gabby Gabby is offline
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We just acquired a 94 9000 Aero.

The owner's manual calls for 35 psi in all four tires unless heavily laden or running faster than 120 MPH--in which case it calls for 38 psi. Tires on mine are 205.55.16 on stock 3 spoke aero wheels.

We really, really like the car! Good luck with yours.

The brakes on mine are simply some of the best stoppers I have ever owned. Pull the thing down RIGHT NOW!
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  #6  
Old 2nd January 2008
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I use 15W-50 mobile 1 Full Synthetic. I heard about it from Porsche forums, people swear by it there, and someone provided a full oil test(like the one which shows what metals you have in it) and compared it to other oils, and this one outperformed other oils.
I used the proper weight before, and it started leaking a lot(even though it wasn't before). I get really good results with this oil.

I would recomend going for synthetic, because the turbo gets extremely hot, making oil very hot, and making it degrade very fast. However, much more important is to always have oil there and CHANGE IT REGULARY. This is the most crucial part of turbo engines. So, if you put in mineral, then change it every 3000miles tops. I put it the oil above, and even though they recomend changing it every 15000miles, i change it every 5000-6000miles.

Just my two cents.

Klim
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  #7  
Old 3rd January 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefano

IIRC, 3.8L including the oil filter.

About 1L
That can't be right. My -96 2.0t takes about 5,5 liters with filter.

Br,

-tom-
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  #8  
Old 3rd January 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom
That can't be right. My -96 2.0t takes about 5,5 liters with filter.

Br,

-tom-
Probably 3,8 is something that I read somewhere, actually when I change the oil and filter in my '96 2.0L Aero it takes abit more (I use a 4L container and use something from a 1L bottle to top it up to the Max so it's probably actually a bit more than 4L), but definately not 5.5. I wouldn't be able to reach the Max with the only 5 litres I buy (considering I don't even use them all).
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  #9  
Old 3rd January 2008
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shinobidice shinobidice is offline
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Maybe you mean 5.5 quarts? I think thats what mine took, because I had a 5 quart jug and then topped it off with a partial 1 quart bottle.

I'll let you know in a few hours, I'm changing my oil today (brrr, could have picked a warmer day though)
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  #10  
Old 3rd January 2008
Gabby Gabby is offline
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My owners handbook reads 4.4 quarts and 5.1liters--must be a misprint on the quarts which would translate into the 5.5 quarts, with filter change, that others are referring to. Mine has the 2.3L turbo motor.

A New York driveway oil change would translate into chilly fingers before the task is completed! Was 16 degrees F. here on the way to work this morning!
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  #11  
Old 3rd January 2008
abusot abusot is offline
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If you have a 5 spd, change the oil in the tranny and flush the hydraulics, but especially, flush the clutch hydraulics.

As far as the brake shudder goes, these cars typically warp the rotors, so take them off and have them resurfaced if they are not too bad, if not, its new rotor time. They are pretty cheap.
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  #12  
Old 3rd January 2008
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My book did say 5.5 liters. It's a misprint? Oh well. I figure, I poured in about 5 quarts and it is in the middle of the Max and Min line. That's with whatever drained out by itself. I believe there's still oil in the turbo lines and other nooks, thats why if I simply poured in what the book said, I'd probably be overflowing the oil.

It was from 6 to 15 today on the explorer and/or saab's temp display. Fortunately, I did the work in the garage that my dad had heated up for a project on his vehicle.
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  #13  
Old 5th January 2008
TwinCities Turbo TwinCities Turbo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turborob
As for the shuddering, it is just as explained, even the steering wheel vibrates a fair bit under braking.
I had a similar issue with my 96 CSE Turbo. Brakes had already been replaced, but the car had not been driven in several months following the replacement. After doing some troubleshooting, I discovered three things that needed to be adressed. 1) Worn Passenger front wheel bearing (easy fix with the right tools), 2) Uneven tread wear on all four tires, and 3) both rear rims were dented. Taking care of each of the above items when replaced individually definitely helped improve the situation. With all three taken care of together, the car rides like a dream.

Concerning the amount of oil capacity, I found that the manual was incorrect. My 1996 manual stated that 4.1 quarts of conventional oil were used, however I use exactly 5 quarts to fill right to the MAX line. Also, the manual indicates that the fuel tank takes 17.8 gallons, however it is actually 14.3 gallons.

Cheers,
E~
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  #14  
Old 5th January 2008
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my car took a little under 5 quarts.... though id always run one quart through by itself after draining to clean it out untill it run clean oil........ so buying six quarts id have some left over.....
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  #15  
Old 5th January 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinCities Turbo
Concerning the amount of oil capacity, I found that the manual was incorrect. My 1996 manual stated that 4.1 quarts of conventional oil were used, however I use exactly 5 quarts to fill right to the MAX line. Also, the manual indicates that the fuel tank takes 17.8 gallons, however it is actually 14.3 gallons.

Cheers,
E~


Err no way..... at least not on my 1994 2.3 CSE.... I ran that thing to "Zero" miles left and put in almost 18 gallons. Plus I got like 19 mpg, and I went 320 to 340 before refilling at max.... If it was only a 14 gallon tank I would've been getting like 23-24 mpg.... which I certainly wasn't....
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  #16  
Old 6th January 2008
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shinobidice shinobidice is offline
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Sounds like you do some major city driving, or you have a bad case of Lead Foot Syndrome. I'm mostly long distances, consistent speed of 55 country driving and I was shocked to see my gas mileage plummet to 25 mpg in the winter.
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  #17  
Old 6th January 2008
Gabby Gabby is offline
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Last evening, with the fuel light just on, I put 15 gallons on the nose into my '94 Aero. The computer said I still had 17 miles left FWIW. I don't suppose that the last gallon would be entirely usable anyway.
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  #18  
Old 6th January 2008
turborob turborob is offline
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Never thought this thread would generate so much interest/discussion!

I put in a 10-30 full synthetic oil. I put in just over 4 litres but the ditstick level is above MAX. I accidentally poured in too much but didn't bother taking any out, I figure it will be fine. Put in a new oil filter too.

Next questions, I'm going to be putting in 'BARS LEAKS' radiator flush in the radiator but I am still looking for that drain plug. Where is it? When I look under the front there is no hole to the bottom of the radiator. Do you have to remove the front guard? Is there a easier way to drain the radiator? As previously stated I usually just remove the bottom hose but this one is a **** to get at.

What are the standard spark plugs? I want to swap them over.

It the tranny just as easy to drain as the sump?

Thanks guys, I'm looking for a manual at the moment for the car. It's frustrating not having simple information available. In the interest of fuel economy I just got 7.0L per 100k or 33mpg. This was with the car weighing 1720kg too.

Rob.
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  #19  
Old 6th January 2008
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The standard plugs are NGK plugs, the Direct Ignition (DI) cassette and computer are pretty picky when it comes to plugs, so I have been told. It's reccommended to stick with the stock plugs
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  #20  
Old 6th January 2008
Superaero Superaero is offline
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Synthetic oil works better but conventional oil will be fine. Cold starting and oil life are the two main advantages to synthetic.


The 2.3 uses 4.5 liters of oil including the filter.

The space between the marks on the dipstick is one liter (one quart is very close to one liter).

The spark plugs MUST be Resistor type ( marked with an R somewhere in the part number) and NGK work best in SAAB engines. I've used the updated Platinum plugs in my 97 with good results but copper cores also work just fine.

BCPR 7 ES is the copper core plug and PFRH 6 or 7 work well for the platinum plugs. Use a gap of between 0.89 and 1.0 mm. I get better results with the narrower gap but SAAB specifies the larger gap.
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