Non standard toe for modded suspension? - SaabCentral Forums
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NG900 & OG9-3 Performance, Mods & Tuning Covers Tuning & Performance modifications for the NG900 (1994 to 1998) & OG9-3 (1999-2002) & '03 Convertible

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  #1  
Old 4th December 2007
Shirozina Shirozina is offline
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Default Non standard toe for modded suspension?

Stock toe settings are designed to work with the compliance in the stock bushings - toe will vary on acceleration and deceleration much more and the thus the dynamic setting will be different. Anyone here who is running with polybushings ever had their toe adjusted differently to the stock setting and how did it change the feel of the car. I'm still getting this slightly vague and unstable feeling when driving on the M-way and have heard that these cars are super sensitive to the toe setting. My current setting is 0deg and 13mins total toe in but this was done on my old 18"' 'drug-dealer' wheels. I'm tempted to go nearer to O deg.
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Old 4th December 2007
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You know how I do mine

Gone out 1/2 flat to got her how I like it with the revised ride height.

But yes, the amount of play in your bushes will 'set' the dynamic toe at cruising speed. So in theory, less toe for stiffer bushes as the wheels don't get pushed back so far.

Perhaps the 'try it and see' method of adjustment is not technical enough
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Old 4th December 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hunt.dogshome
You know how I do mine

Gone out 1/2 flat to got her how I like it with the revised ride height.

But yes, the amount of play in your bushes will 'set' the dynamic toe at cruising speed. So in theory, less toe for stiffer bushes as the wheels don't get pushed back so far.

Perhaps the 'try it and see' method of adjustment is not technical enough
i prefer a couple degrees of toe out

trying to get oversteer in fwd cars sucks
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Old 5th December 2007
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A couple of degree's - are you sure you don't mean mins? - Can you drive it in a straight line like this without having to constantly correct the steering? Why do you want oversteer?
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Old 5th December 2007
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Because he thinks he's Stig Blomqvist.
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Old 5th December 2007
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Widen the front track with 20mm spacers, set front toe in at -2, add stiffer rear ARB....

Slight understeer when pushed.......
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Old 5th December 2007
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I'm after straightline stability at the moment - most of my driving is on the M-way. It's pretty neutral when pushed hard into country road corners (koni's full soft and 38psi all round) but I can induce over or understeer with slight adjustment to tyre pressures or shock settings.
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Old 5th December 2007
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You guys ever sit back, look @ what you type, and think you take things a little TOO seriously?


What are you doing on the M-way that "straight line stability" really matters?
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Old 5th December 2007
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I'm trying to drive comfortably in a straight line without having to feed in steering corrections everytime I go over a slight indulation in the road or get hit by a bit of sidewind - this is a normal expectation from a car - straightline stability.
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So, set toe to zero, camber to zero and run high-profile tires @ 30psi
problem solved.
All the straight-line stability you could ever need!

Really... you can't have both.

You'll have a car that turns well, or goes straight well...or a compromise in one for the other.
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Old 5th December 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike saunders
Widen the front track with 20mm spacers, set front toe in at -2, add stiffer rear ARB....

Slight understeer when pushed.......
-2? Sounds reasonable. Check!
Stiffer rear ARB? Check!

Don't understand spacer part though


G86NT: Straight line stability very useful for the normal run to work and back also. A twitchy, wandering thing isn't good for that
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Old 5th December 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G96nt
So, set toe to zero, camber to zero and run high-profile tires @ 30psi
problem solved.
All the straight-line stability you could ever need!

Really... you can't have both.

You'll have a car that turns well, or goes straight well...or a compromise in one for the other.
Zero toe will lead to instability and a loose feel as the small amount of play in all the suspension and steering joints will cause the wheels to wander about. Negative or positive toe takes up the slack by putting the joints under compression or tension. Toe in creates straight line stability at the expense of turn in but too much wears the tyres. Toe out makes for fast turn in but instability in a straight line. I know what these things do - I just want someone to tell me what they have set their toe to with poly bushes.
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Old 5th December 2007
mfyoung mfyoung is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corn Cob
Because he thinks he's Stig Blomqvist.
lol, no i think i'm per eklund

and yes i set a degree of toe out for auto-x course's, and rally-x course's where speeds rarely exceed 40 or 50, and never for more than a couple of seconds
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  #14  
Old 6th December 2007
Tweek's Turbos Tweek's Turbos is offline
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So do we have a difinitive setting? I know Abbott has the rear setting up on the website. But what do we want for the front for var. applications?
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Old 6th December 2007
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It would be nice to know what people think for both strait line and cornering, the shop I work in does alignments and I could probally get a free one.
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