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  #1  
Old 10th June 2007
Murphys001 Murphys001 is offline
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Default Flywheel Locking tool...

Any ideas where to fix this saab tool?

Need to remove the cranshaft pulley bolt from an engine and gearbox (still joined together) that is out of the car.

Clutch and slave cylinder removed, but the only possible place that I can see to fit the tool is about at the 3 o'clock position (below the starter motor)where a large bolt goes theough the casing that holds a leg from the underside of the trottle body to the casing.

The only thing strange here is that the bolt has a larger diametre than the fixing hole on the flywheel lock tool and wont thread pass through.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 10th June 2007
AUSSIE900 AUSSIE900 is offline
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NO need to undo crank pulley if this is just for the seperation you are doing .

You can usually lock up the flyweel using a socket on one of the bolts , turning crank slightly to lock it in the hole the socket passed thru ,
Or you can use a screwdriver against the ringgear on the flywheel .
Is it the flyweel you are trying to remove ? or the crank pulley ?
Havent seen the SAAB tool , so unsure how you bolt it up . But guessing it would be one of the starter mount holes
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  #3  
Old 10th June 2007
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If you have assistance you could get them to jam the end of a crowbar between the large nut at the top of the flywheel and it's teeth.
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  #4  
Old 10th June 2007
Murphys001 Murphys001 is offline
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Here are a few photos of the Saab Flywheel Locking tool. The teeth are about 2 inches in length, fairly small tool...
Quote:
Originally Posted by AUSSIE900
NO need to undo crank pulley if this is just for the seperation you are doing
.
Aussie900, you are correct about not needing to remove the crank pulley bolt for the trans swap, but once the engine and gearbox is out of the car I was going to have the crank pulley bolt loosened. This should allow me at a later date to get at the timing chain cover just to see why and maybe replace the chain components that have worn so quickly. I figured that it would easier to remove the bolt whilst the engine and gearbox where still joined and that I had the use of a garage mechanics with all the tools.

I hope this makes sense, what do you think? Would like to use the flywheel tool to lossen the crank pulley bolt.

Struggling to picture your suggestion about using a socket on one of the flywheel bolts
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Last edited by Murphys001; 10th June 2007 at 09:39 AM.
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  #5  
Old 10th June 2007
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Following picture is a scan from the Saab service manual. Hope it helps.

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Old 10th June 2007
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There's two places I fit mine. One towards the top of the flywheel, near where the TDC mark is, and one in the gearbox housing, drivers' side (US), there's a small window in the casting.
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  #7  
Old 10th June 2007
Murphys001 Murphys001 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcase
There's two places I fit mine. One towards the top of the flywheel, near where the TDC mark is, and one in the gearbox housing, drivers' side (US), there's a small window in the casting.
Nutcase,

This is all new to me ......

The tool has only one hole to put a bolt through. Would the tool have to rest against part of the casing wall to stop it pivoting when the flywheel moves?

Would it be important for the hole in the casing to be of the same diametre as the hole in the tool. ie to stop the tool wobbling when bolted up.

I hope this makes sense
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Old 11th June 2007
RickyS RickyS is offline
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Is the flywheel locking tool available from suppliers otherthan Saab stealerships. If so where?
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Old 11th June 2007
Murphys001 Murphys001 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyS
Is the flywheel locking tool available from suppliers otherthan Saab stealerships. If so where?
.... Only Saab Dealerships

Still trying to figure out where to place it, hopefully Nutcase will reply as Shan's picture is identical to Bentley's picture but does not resemble my 16V non turbo flywheel.
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  #10  
Old 11th June 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphys001
The tool has only one hole to put a bolt through. Would the tool have to rest against part of the casing wall to stop it pivoting when the flywheel moves?
No. If you consider the radius of the flywheel and compare it with the radius of the tool, you'll see that the tool rotating would turn it sideways very quickly and would force the teeth down into the edge of the flywheel. Since the flywheel is hard, this cannot happen so the flywheel cannot rotate.
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Old 11th June 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphys001
Nutcase,

This is all new to me ......

The tool has only one hole to put a bolt through. Would the tool have to rest against part of the casing wall to stop it pivoting when the flywheel moves?

Would it be important for the hole in the casing to be of the same diametre as the hole in the tool. ie to stop the tool wobbling when bolted up.

I hope this makes sense
The lump welded to the back of it rests against part of the gearbox - that was never an original method IIRC, but a later addition at the suggestion of a dealership. Using it at the top, the tool rotates round the bolt a little bit and then locks. I think the hole in the tool is a couple of millimetres oversize for an 8mm bolt.

There is a place on ebay usa that sells the tool for more than I paid for mine through saab.
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  #12  
Old 21st June 2007
Murphys001 Murphys001 is offline
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Quick update and thanks for all the responses...

The tool is placed at the 11 O'clock poistion above the flywheel, by removing the bolt in the casing and replacing it with a slightly longer bolt.

Worth its weight in gold as the crank pulley bolt came off with just a breaker bar in seconds.
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  #13  
Old 22nd June 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyS
Is the flywheel locking tool available from suppliers otherthan Saab stealerships. If so where?
I don't know if these people would ship to the UK, but I bought one from them. http://saab.spx.com/
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  #14  
Old 24th February 2011
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c900 c900 is offline
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I thought I had one of those genuine Saab tools, but I can't find it and only have an aftermarket tool that is being annoying to use. I can bolt it to the engine just fine in my 81 turbo car, but it won't stop turning when I apply a lot of force to the crank pulley nut and I don't want to tighten the bolt (using a longer one) too much in case I strip the thread in the block. Might have to go with the 'bump the starter' method if I can work out a place to put the handle of my breaker bar (similar to what I did recently when renewing the crank pulley on my 9000).

Is the torque of the crank pulley nut meant to be 150+ ft/lb like it is with a B202 engine? Going to be fun tightening it back up after replacing the leaking crankshaft seal. 8-)

The tool I have is one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Flywh...item27b89342c8

For those of you who've tried the screwdriver method, can you describe where to place it or better yet show a pic (or several) of how you have used a screwdriver to lock the flywheel (or auto trans driveplate in my car's case) against movement?

Craig.
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Last edited by c900; 24th February 2011 at 03:51 AM.
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