Oil Type, Oil Woes, Oil Pans, and all things Oil

[Eiron]

Originally Posted by zoli.m13

... I'm thinking on to change from 0W40/5W40/5W50 to 5W30 dexos2* approved oil (like GM or Mobil 1). I have a good experience in my wife's 1.6 16V Ecotech engine: brand new, 10W40 and some 5W40 oils were in use with oil burning, but absolutely nothing with GM 5W30 (dexos2 approved).

Any thoughts are much appreciated!
---
*dexos2 is the approved oil for gasoline GM/Opel cars in Europe

Just a bit of opinion on dexos2: GM's goal with this oil (as with their previous GM-LL-A/B-025 spec) is to increase fuel economy & extend oil change intervals in order to qualify for environmental credits from various governing bodies. Since it's a newer spec, one might assume that it's an improvement in engine protection, & it may be over previous GM oil requirements, but it's main goal is not to protect engine life.

Stick with an ACEA A3/B3/B4 rated oil to protect your engine & reduce oil loss.

[Eiron]

Originally Posted by Naks

Not to start another oil debate, while browsing at Autozone this morning I found these two oils that conform to GM-LL-A-025:



Where I live (cape town), these are the following temperatures: winter minimum is 4C, summer maximum is 44C (very rare).

Which would be more suitable for my v6 (2008, 44500km)?

For my money I'd always go with the Mobil 1 0W-40. That's a great viscosity range for your climate! Is there a substantial cost savings if buying the Castrol? And what oil change intervals are you running?

[BobSaabit]

I don't think you can get that Castrol oil in the USA.

There is a German Castrol that's rated as a 5w-30 weight that actually has a viscosity of 38 or 39, so that's a good choice (and it meets ACEA A3/B3).

[bkrell]

Originally Posted by BobSaabit

I don't think you can get that Castrol oil in the USA.

There is a German Castrol that's rated as a 5w-30 weight that actually has a viscosity of 38 or 39, so that's a good choice (and it meets ACEA A3/B3).

It's 0W30 and technically you'd call it a "thick 30 weight" as there's no such thing as a "38 or 39 weight."

But it and Maxlife synth 10W30 are some of a handful of 30 weight ACEA A3 oils available in the US.

[BobSaabit]

Originally Posted by bkrell

It's 0W30 and technically you'd call it a "thick 30 weight" as there's no such thing as a "38 or 39 weight."

But it and Maxlife synth 10W30 are some of a handful of 30 weight ACEA A3 oils available in the US.

Not to be too anal retentive, but there is a "38 or 39 weight" in actual viscosity. There's a rating system and it's measureable. It's just that if you don't pass the bar of 40 weight, you can't label your oil that way.

[Eiron]

Originally Posted by BobSaabit

Not to be too anal retentive, but there is a "38 or 39 weight" in actual viscosity. There's a rating system and it's measureable. It's just that if you don't pass the bar of 40 weight, you can't label your oil that way.

Yes, it would be nice if the rating system were divided into finer units. (And it's hard to be too anal about oil with this group! )

For anyone wondering what we're talking about:
The SAE viscosity classification system only identifies "steps" of viscosity ranges, & those steps are pretty large. So "30 weight" oil fills the range of 9.3 cSt to 12.5 cSt (at 212F/100C). Since Castrol Edge 0W-30 measures 12.2 cSt, it could be viewed as a "39 weight" oil. Except that SAE doesn't actually recognize that viscosity because it doesn't have classification steps that small. So we're all left wondering (or doing our own research to find out) where each oil falls on the scale.

Perhaps more important for our engines is the HTHS rating (the aspect that enables an ACEA A3/B3 rating). Interestingly, the Castrol 0W-30 PDS (linked above, from the Castrol website) shows a HTHS of 2.9 cP, which only qualifies it for an ACEA A5/B5 rating. The minimum allowable HTHS for an A3/B3 rating is 3.5 cP. I also noticed that the PDS shows it's not approved to current API specs of SM or SN.

[Eiron]

Originally Posted by bkrell

... But [German Castrol] and Maxlife synth 10W30 are some of a handful of 30 weight ACEA A3 oils available in the US.

I'll add Mobil 1 10W-30 High Mileage to the list. A great value in a Group IV (PAO), 12 cSt (@100C), 3.5 cP HTHS, ACEA A3/B3/B4 rated, 30 wt oil.

[Naks]

Anyone here use Redline?



http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=3&pcid=21

As specified for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Porsche and VW applications
Thicker oil film at operating temperature than a petroleum 5W40 or 10W40
Additional additive package for diesel passenger cars and trucks (API CJ-4)
Recommended for API SN/SM/CJ-4/CI-4/CI-4 PLUS, GM dexos2® (GM-LL-B-025 and GM-LL-A-025)
Also recommended for ACEA A3/B4/E9
Popular in turbocharged applications

ABOUT RED LINE MOTOR OIL
Fully-synthetic ester formula for passenger cars, light trucks, performance vehicles and marine applications
Excellent wear protection and friction reduction across a wide range of operating conditions
High detergency allows extended drain intervals and provides increased cleanliness
Improved fuel economy and ring seal for more power
Superior high temperature stability and oxidation resistance increases lubrication of hot metal compared to other synthetics
High natural viscosity index (VI) provides thicker oil film in bearings and cams
Less evaporation than other synthetics for improved efficiency and ring seal
All products are completely compatible with other conventional and synthetic motor oils

[Fox Fader]

Sound good, but that stuff is too dang high.

When I bought my car at 189k, it came with many receipts. Most of them were from quick change oil places. My engine, after I've gone through it top and bottom, shows no signs of oil not doing it's job (to keep it simple).

My point is, why pay all that extra $$ when you can buy oil that does it's job half the cost or less. Heck, I can get Mobil 1 at walmart and save and that oil will still protect more than I'll ever need.

Just a thought.

[gatr2000]

Hi All

i currently own a 2002 9-3 ..thankfully no oil sludge issues..engine pulls strong at 160K
i am looking to buy another one though(2003 9-3 80K miles) and would like to know if there are some telltale signs i need to look out for concerning the sludge issue BEFORE i sign on the dotted line.

if the motor runs similar to my current car the thought is to get some preventive care done on it immediately..knowing i will probably not own 2 saabs without this issue(ha!)

so question 1.. what am i looking for, listening for when inspecting an engine for sludge.
and question 2. will following the sticky notes prevent the sludge problem in the future or are the procedures done to just prolong the inevitable?

thanks

gatr

[BobSaabit]

Originally Posted by gatr2000

Hi All

i currently own a 2002 9-3 ..thankfully no oil sludge issues..engine pulls strong at 160K
i am looking to buy another one though(2003 9-3 80K miles) and would like to know if there are some telltale signs i need to look out for concerning the sludge issue BEFORE i sign on the dotted line.

if the motor runs similar to my current car the thought is to get some preventive care done on it immediately..knowing i will probably not own 2 saabs without this issue(ha!)

so question 1.. what am i looking for, listening for when inspecting an engine for sludge.
and question 2. will following the sticky notes prevent the sludge problem in the future or are the procedures done to just prolong the inevitable?

thanks

gatr

Unless the '03 9-3 is a convertible, I don't think you need to worry. I believe the new 9-3 came with an upgrade. Check the 9-3SS forum.

If it's a 'vert, the goods news is that 80K is not a lot of miles. You can't see much without pulling a valve cover. Seeing PCV#6 installed would be a good sign. Oil change records showing regular changes would be a good sign.

[gatr2000]

Originally Posted by BobSaabit

Unless the '03 9-3 is a convertible, I don't think you need to worry. I believe the new 9-3 came with an upgrade. Check the 9-3SS forum.

If it's a 'vert, the goods news is that 80K is not a lot of miles. You can't see much without pulling a valve cover. Seeing PCV#6 installed would be a good sign. Oil change records showing regular changes would be a good sign.

I wonder if pulling the valve cover at the lot would be a messy thing I was educated this morning on what a sludge infested engine looks like...scary
Talk to me about the PVC #6 is this inside the oil pan?

Thx for your time
Gatr

[BobSaabit]

PCV fix #6 is an external fix - you can check for the proper hoses in the engine compartment. There's a photo around here somewhere... maybe someone can post a pointer.

Pulling the valve cover and re-installing it is only an hour of work for someone who has done it before... but likely 2+ for anyone who hasn't. It's also not definitive - if the engine looks bad, that's bad, but if it looks good, that a sign but not an absolute.

Does the engine have oil change records?

[gatr2000]

Cool. I will give it a go with mine tonight. Thx!

[limon]

I just had an oil change at a new shop today and the mechanics were good I thought. They showed me the oil as it was coming out and there was a little sludge at the end. I am at 254 K and had the oil pan dropped at 180K and cleaned out. Lotta sludge at that time!

I used Mobile synthetic last time and it had been 4000, not the normal 3000 I usually do. What should I do if there is a slight sludge coming back? My mechanic who dropped the pan said I was ok for the duration but this new sludge is concerning.

Are additives any good or should I have the pan dropped again? I just don't know. Thanks for any thoughts or advice -

[condaddy]

I was wondering what oil you guys think I should use, currently I got 0w 40 synthetic mobile one. Been noticing some blow by so was thinking of up the weight maybe 5w 30? but was also wondering if using a non synthetic would be better and also what oils you guys suggest. Any input will be greatly appreciated!

[Fox Fader]

Originally Posted by limon

I just had an oil change at a new shop today and the mechanics were good I thought. They showed me the oil as it was coming out and there was a little sludge at the end. I am at 254 K and had the oil pan dropped at 180K and cleaned out. Lotta sludge at that time!

I used Mobile synthetic last time and it had been 4000, not the normal 3000 I usually do. What should I do if there is a slight sludge coming back? My mechanic who dropped the pan said I was ok for the duration but this new sludge is concerning.

Are additives any good or should I have the pan dropped again? I just don't know. Thanks for any thoughts or advice -

This is what I would do to your car.

Add some Marvel's Mystery Oil to the engine. This stuff will loosen up the sludge allowing it to drain. Follow the directions on the can. I'm not big on additives, but this is one that I have used and I know for sure works.

[bogan]

Originally Posted by condaddy

I was wondering what oil you guys think I should use, currently I got 0w 40 synthetic mobile one. Been noticing some blow by so was thinking of up the weight maybe 5w 30? but was also wondering if using a non synthetic would be better and also what oils you guys suggest. Any input will be greatly appreciated!

5W 40 full synthetic. I run Shell Helix.
Your car will love you for it

And don't run Mobil 1 in our cars

[Eiron]

Originally Posted by bogan

5W 40 full synthetic. I run Shell Helix.
Your car will love you for it

And don't run Mobil 1 in our cars

?? ?? ??

Sure, Shell Helix is a good oil, but why would I choose to run a Group III oil over a Group IV oil (like Mobil 1)?

[condaddy]

well the reason I run the mobile is becuase I have boxes of it here to use for free so cant pass that up, but why the shell helix? Do you suggest any 5w 40? and is that fine to run in the winter? Why do say dont run mobile 1?