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NG900 & OG9-3 Workshop NG900 (1994 to 1998) & OG9-3 (1999-2002) & '03 Convertible Technical Forum

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  #1  
Old 30th April 2007
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Default Spark plugs--easy to change?

I did a search on this and came up with a gazillion threads. So, being the lazy (or busy, take your pick) girl that I am, I decided I'd just ask. My CEL has been radomly throwing the p1312 code since Sept. (hopefully no new codes have crept in). I was given advice by many helpful people in this forum that mainly came down to "it's probably the DIC and/or spark plugs." I called a dealer and was told that the DIC has already been replaced for the recall, so I'm hoping that some new plugs will do the trick.

I love my mechanic and he loves me (of course he does, at $80 an hour ). I would like to try and avoid paying for 1 1/2 hours of labor to change the plugs--he quoted me around $160 for the work. From what I've read, the spark plugs are easy to replace.

1) Please tell me this is true, and is there a resource I can use to get this done? Detailed instructions and diagrams are encouraged

2) Please tell me exactly what plugs I need so I can order them online.

Thank you in advance to all of the awesome people who respond--this community has taken the "scare" out of owning this car. I've only had it since August and am petrified it's going to turn into Mr. Hyde--I've already had several issues.
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  #2  
Old 30th April 2007
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4 screws take the DI off and unplug the lead from the end of it.A deep socket or plug socket(17mm I think) removes the 4 plugs. Replace and remember to only tighten about 1/4 turn to seat them. Replace DI and push in the lead and hey presto. Takes about 10mins total(less for an expert which I'm not)
ps-you have been quoted an outrageous price by the way, Should be more like 10 dollars.
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Last edited by eckyboy; 30th April 2007 at 02:56 PM.
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  #3  
Old 30th April 2007
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Tried to edit as forgot to put link in so here it is for plugs - you may get cheaper on your side of the Atlantic but at least this will give you the part numbers.
http://www.elkparts.com/index.php
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Last edited by eckyboy; 30th April 2007 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 30th April 2007
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IF for plugs only, 0.5(1/2 an hour) should be sufficient.

More than that, then something is wrong..
In my time, this was a 15 minute task, an easy 15 minutes...even for a VW type four....
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Old 30th April 2007
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This is an easy job to do. If you are planning on doing it yourself, you picked a real good one. Just make sure to get the right plugs, check the gap, and the rest is easy as Eckyboy had described.


An hour and a half is way too long, even with lunch thrown in. Are you sure thats all they were doing?
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Old 30th April 2007
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Yep, just buy one of those plug gappers next to the cash register at the autoparts stop to check the gap. Otherwise, it's four screws and then you need a deep sided socket to fit over the plugs.
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Old 30th April 2007
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it's a 16mm socket, or 5/8" plug socket (has rubber inside to grip plugs)

like stated... 4 hex screws (you have the torx driver in your spare-tire took kit)
then just remove the plugs.

gap the new ones to .038" and tighten 'em back down hand tight, and then 90-degrees past there.

that's all.
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Old 3rd May 2007
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eckyboy...can you re-do the link? It's not complete
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Old 4th May 2007
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yeah I'd love a link to some nice spark plugs too
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Old 4th May 2007
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Default What kind of plugs?

If anyone can point me to a specific spark plug: manufacturer, part number, etc., I'm actually going to attempt to do this myself. A google search has provided mixed results when looking for "saab spark plug." It came back with different sites, showing different plugs. I want to make sure I get it right the first time
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Old 4th May 2007
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http://eeuroparts.com/productdetail....ts=1&code=6398

Go there and order four. That link goes right to the specific plug you need.
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Old 4th May 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by web-betty
If anyone can point me to a specific spark plug: manufacturer, part number, etc., I'm actually going to attempt to do this myself. A google search has provided mixed results when looking for "saab spark plug." It came back with different sites, showing different plugs. I want to make sure I get it right the first time
Best to use the owner's manual recommended plug..The turbo models take their own, it must be an "R" (resistor plug)..
http://www.geocities.com/ng900set/IDM/IDM.html
We probably have too many threads on this subject..
Use our search.
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Old 21st May 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G96nt

gap the new ones to .038" and tighten 'em back down hand tight, and then 90-degrees past there.

that's all.
Ok, I'm getting ready to do this How do I check/adjust the gap if need be, and how do I confirm that .38" is correct for my vehicle? I hate to second guess G96nt, but I want to make sure I get this right the first time.
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Old 21st May 2007
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90 degrees past hand tight !!

NO !!

Both the male and female threads must be clean and fee of rust and burrs - most new plugs and fairly new cars need little work in this area.
Apply a light dab of anti-seize on the threads; carefully start the plug by hand...
Use a torque wrench set at 18 to 20 ft lbs to finish..

Set the electrode gap (0.039" - turbo chaged 900ng) to the spec in the manual using a wire guage(more accurate than a feeler guage, and easier)..
Double check the specs and inspect every step - this is time well spent..
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Old 21st May 2007
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They're in

I figured out just how easy using the gapper was. They came shipped at .039" so that was nice.

Two questions:

1) the plugs I took out were gapped at .035"--can the gap change over time, or were the old ones just gapped wrong?

2) could this difference in the gap size cause the codes my CEL is throwing (p1312 and p1334--if I remember them correctly).
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  #16  
Old 21st May 2007
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They may very well have been mis-gapped...Erosion will cause the gap to increase..a reason to regap every 10 to 15K..

IMO, a rather small mis-gap should not cause a CEL...
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Old 21st May 2007
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earth...
you're wrong.

NGK plugs have crush-washers, which make them TTY.
hand-tighten, and then 90-degrees.

if you're re-installing NGK plugs, they require 35lb/ft
This is off the top of my head....I suppose I could check NGK.com for the "troof"
maybe I'll prove myself wrong.

************************************************** ***
for the sake of humilty...
I was wrong. I left my original answer up, though

here's the chart. we have 14mm plugs.
(I'm used to 16mm in DSM's)

http://www.ngk.com/charglossary.asp?...orque+settings

it's 18-21lb/ft


however, I'm 90% certain that if you go 90-degrees past hand-tight, you'll have your 18-20lb/ft.
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  #18  
Old 21st May 2007
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Well, the crush washers, in a way ,make the ft lb torque redundent..

Its been years since I have installed new plugs... I do detest overtightening things... so, I will have to experiment - the Honda may be due for new ones... as should the '97 Saab 900SE(married daughter's ride).
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  #19  
Old 22nd May 2007
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Yeah - overtightening steel threaded plugs in an aluminum head can get dodgy. I think of the torque spec for plugs more as the way to prevent overtightening rather than as a method of making sure they are tight enough. Anyone else here ever try to re-tap plug threads in the aluminum head of a Lancia? One thing is for certain: you will never worry if you use the torque wrench. And a man can never have too many torque wrenches. And using crush washers and torque wrenches is the belt and suspenders technique of the cautious shade-tree mechanic.
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  #20  
Old 30th June 2007
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I finally got my spark plugs changed, and yes, I did it myself! Cost under $50 for the plugs so I saved myself $80 in labor. Took care of the CEL so I'm psyched.

Thanks for everyone's help on this post!

Melissa
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